Stevens Model 87B: Cleanup advice?

[TheEngineer]

Ok, so my father has an old .22 rifle that is dire need of some TLC and I am in the process of bringing it back to life for him (ok, its really for me too ) The gun is an old Stevens Model 87B from around the 50s...its a really neat little tube fed .22, Steven's being a "sub" Savage Arms brand. Here's a quick clip of the desription:

These rifles were also sold as Savage and Stevens models, as well as under some store brand names. They are interesting for a few reasons. Nicknamed the "gill gun," after the cooling gills on the left side of the action, they are unusual for auto-loading .22's in that they can shoot 22 short, long and long rifle. The shorts will not cycle automatically, so when you shoot them, you work the bolt after each shot.

Also, when firing on semi-auto, the bolt does not close until the trigger is released. This causes it to make a unique noise that gave rise to a second nickname, the clackety-clack gun.

Like I said, the gun is in kind of rough shape...the stock is cracked on both sides near the extractor and in another spot behind the trigger guard. Also, most of the metal has a bit of surface rust all over it...good news is there doesn't seem to be any pitting.

I would like to bring this gun back to its former plinking glory, but this is my first attempt at a gun "revival". I have the stock off, injected wood glue into the cracks, and have it clamped up drying. I would like to strip it down to bare wood and refinish it. The rest of the parts are going to get removed, given a good cleaning/oiling, and put back. I would like to keep it as original as i can.

Any tips of tricks any one cares to share with the rest of the class? What products do you use or have had the best luck with?

Thanks in advance

 

[red_zr24x4]

I have one of these also, go here for ny parts you might need- Featured Products | Numrich Gun Parts
Mine had no bluing left, the stock had a big oil stain coming from the back of the receiver all the way to the recoil pad. I picked it up for $40 so I wasn't out anything so I parkerized it and sanded the stock.
On mine, if I load the magazine with the bolt open, it jams up. I've been thinking about rebuilding the whole feed area, heck I might duracoat it or something.

 

[TheEngineer]

Thanks for the link...I haven't fired the gun, but it cycles (manually) well and dry fires so im hoping that i wont need to use it but im glad there are parts available if necessary.

Besides the cosmetic issues described in the OP, the one mechanical issue i have found is the trigger assembly...the trigger itself seems to have a lot of play left-to-right (perpendicular to normal trigger travel)...probably close to 1/8" in both directions

 

[Slapstick]

I picked up a Ward Western Field version of the same gun not too long ago. It had some light rust on it. I find squirting a bit of Hoppes #9 and gently rubbing the area with 000 steal wool will get the rust off, (some prefer a light oil instead of Hoppes). On stubborn areas gently rub over it with the edge of a nickle, (the coin) and then repeat the Hoppes and steal wool. When done make sure you put a light coat of oil on it.

If the stock is in too bad of shape Boyd's make a semi-inlet stock for it. You have to do some minor fitting and the finial finish to the stock which isn't a bad thing since you get the finish you want. Boyds: STEVENS® 87B TUBE FEED STOCK WALNUT (SEMI-INLET) Field Designs The one I picked up has a nylon stock so a winter project is it to get the Boyd's stock for it.

 

[TheEngineer]

Got to do a little more work on the Stevens this weekend...stripped it completely down and gave it a good scrubbing with #0000 steel wool (toothbrush in the hard to reach spots) and Hoppes #9. Gave everything a nice coating of oil and set it out to dry (attached picture). Everything had a good haze of surface rust and about 50+ years of gunk built up on it, so i was pretty happy with the final result...heck, before i started cleaning it i couldn't even tell that the magazine rod was brass!



Also, i got the "left-to-right wiggle" out of the trigger The trigger housing is a stamped piece of sheet metal and it seemed that the sides were not making a tight connection anymore...it just needed a little attitude adjustment to tighten it up courtesy of 2 wooden blocks and a hammer May be a bit barbaric, but the trigger is tight and as smooth as it probably ever was.

Two issues came up though...

1) If you look in the picture, above the bolt is a small metal piece...that's the extractor from the left side. I would love to have it back in the bolt along with its counterpart on the right side, but its broken I think it has been for awhile though...but thanks to the link above, ill have a new one on the way shortly

2) I was doing my second round of sanding on the stock to take it down to bare wood in preparation for a new coat of stain/oil...my glue joints didn't hold in 2 out of the 3 cracks in the stock I took some sandpaper to the cracks to try and clean out the years of failed repair and gave it another go...REALLY hoping that it holds this time.

I really wish i would've taken some before pictures, i feel like this is going to turn out to be pretty nice when its all said and done

 

[IndyGunworks]

Wood glue doesn't work so well on cracks... try gorilla glue... more clean up sanding afterwards but it holds better.

 

[TheEngineer]

Wood glue doesn't work so well on cracks... try gorilla glue... more clean up sanding afterwards but it holds better.

I use Gorilla Glue - Wood Glue for all my woodworking projects...best of both worlds maybe? Or does regular Gorilla Glue still do a better job?

 

[IndyGunworks]

I like the regular gorilla glue because it expands. If you have the part clamped tightly I reason that the expansion pushes more of the product into the pores of the wood.

 

[TheEngineer]

Valid point...if it doesnt hold after this second round, im going to have to up my game to Gorilla Glue.

The cracks that are there have been present for awhile...they are filled with old wood glue, filler, and other failed attempts from over the years. Im thinking that the first round of glue didnt last because the old junk was in the way. I did a fairly decent job cleaning it all off this time, so i hope it will hold.

Im going to give it a strength test (i.e. bend the hell out of it ) before i continue with the refinishing. Luckily its only a .22...if it was a higher caliber with more recoil, id probably trash the stock just to be safe

 

[Mosinguy]

I have that exact rifle. If you load it with the bolt open, it will jam. It's really cool once it gets a little dirty how you'll see little flashes of light come out of the "gills". The action is really cool as well. I find it shoots .22s so quietly I can hear the action go "click-clack". Bolt action mode is even better when you want to be quiet. I love mine. PM me any questions about the rifle, I know mine inside and out pretty well.

I'm refinishing the stock with boiled linseed oil. It's on it's third coat and about to get a forth one. I use 0000 steel wool between coats and will use it on the last coat to tone down the shine a little. A hand rubbed finish looks great on the wood so far. Make sure you rub fast and hard enough to create heat, it helps the oil soak in faster. And don't go overboard on the oil because it'll take longer to dry! But to be sure wipe off the excess after you're done rubbing.

 

[TheEngineer]

I have that exact rifle. If you load it with the bolt open, it will jam. It's really cool once it gets a little dirty how you'll see little flashes of light come out of the "gills". The action is really cool as well. I find it shoots .22s so quietly I can hear the action go "click-clack". Bolt action mode is even better when you want to be quiet. I love mine. PM me any questions about the rifle, I know mine inside and out pretty well.

I'm refinishing the stock with boiled linseed oil. It's on it's third coat and about to get a forth one. I use 0000 steel wool between coats and will use it on the last coat to tone down the shine a little. A hand rubbed finish looks great on the wood so far. Make sure you rub fast and hard enough to create heat, it helps the oil soak in faster. And don't go overboard on the oil because it'll take longer to dry! But to be sure wipe off the excess after you're done rubbing.

That's good to know, thanks for the heads up The more research i do on it, the more i love it...i hope it turns out to be a sweet little tack driver. Dad may have to pry this one away from me when im done with it

I was leaning towards the boiled linseed oil finish after i stain it...i love that glossy hand-rubbed look on older guns like these.

Have you shot different .22 rounds through yours (short, long rifle)? I know that you have to work the bolt for .22 shorts but i read somewhere else that you have to turn the knob and the end of the receiver to compensate for the lower/higher pressure rounds...any experience with that?

 

[Mosinguy]

No experience with turning the knob. Never read about that. I've only shot long rifle through it. Mostly Federal, Winchester, and junk Remington. Never any problems except the very occasional failure to eject. I have however shot the rifle in bolt action and semi auto. Even with the smaller rounds, they'll kick the bolt back a little. When firing in bolt action mode you have to rack the bolt, then lock in the cocking handle. After you fire you unlock the cocking handle and run the bolt back again.

Look on the left side of the receiver. My rifle is from 1945 and is factory drilled and tapped for a side mounted scope base. I had grand plans to scope the rifle and I had the scope base and mount model numbers written down somewhere but never actually scoped the rifle.

 

[Slapstick]

That's good to know, thanks for the heads up The more research i do on it, the more i love it...i hope it turns out to be a sweet little tack driver. Dad may have to pry this one away from me when im done with it

I was leaning towards the boiled linseed oil finish after i stain it...i love that glossy hand-rubbed look on older guns like these.

Have you shot different .22 rounds through yours (short, long rifle)? I know that you have to work the bolt for .22 shorts but i read somewhere else that you have to turn the knob and the end of the receiver to compensate for the lower/higher pressure rounds...any experience with that?

I've shot .22 shorts and the best way to do it is to lock the bolt and cycle by hand, (as MosinGuy said "bolt action") I'm not sure why you would want to turn the knob at the end of the receiver, it's for field stripping unless someone thinks that by taking a little pressure off the recoil spring helps cycling . That's one part I want on thight since a bolt in the face wouldn't be pleasant. I haven't shot any .22 longs so I don't know they will cycle the bolt. I've shot a variety of .22's Long Rifle, from cheap bulk to some match stuff, and they cycle fine and accuracy was good with all of them, water bottle accurate to from 30 to 50 yards. Can't ask for much more from an old plinker.

 

[TheEngineer]

Ohhhhhh man...you guys are really giving me the itch to shoot this thing, I'd better hurry and get that broken extractor on order so i can sling some lead

Mosinguy, ill check when i get home but im almost positive that mine doesn't have the drill/tap receiver for the scope mount. You said your rifle was from '45, how can you tell? I searched for a serial number dating code but came up with squat.

Savage/Stevens/Springfield Model 85, 87 etc. in .22 rimfire Forum
^^^This must have been where i heard about turning the knob on the receiver..."adjustable recoil plug" is mentioned a few times throughout the thread. I didn't think it sounded right, that's why i wanted to ask you guys...wanted to avoid a nice shiner (or worse)

 

[Mosinguy]

It has to do with where the rifle was made, the number of patent dates, and what your stock looked like, and how the back of your receiver looked. I know if the back of your receiver is sloped or more streamlined looking it's mid 60's on up. If it has a big knob that isn't streamlined to the stock it's older. Also, if your bolt handle is quarter sized it's pre 1940 I believe. This is all off the top of my head and dates are approximate. Also a certain block of years had a black "band" painted on the front most part of the stock. My stock has that, the receiver isn't streamlined, and the bolt handle isn't quarter sized. That combination puts it at or around 1945.

The biggest thing that helped me date it is the fact someone put "45" on the buttplate. It looks like a factory stamp. All that combined sorta narrowed it down for me. I can't remember where I got that info though unfortunately or I'd link it to this thread.

 

[TheEngineer]

...Also a certain block of years had a black "band" painted on the front most part of the stock. My stock has that, the receiver isn't streamlined, and the bolt handle isn't quarter sized. That combination puts it at or around 1945....

Check, ?, and check

My stock had black paint (more like a dark stain) for the first 1.5-2" on the very front end of the stock. Not sure about streamlined receiver, its roughly the same diameter throughout...about 1/2" larger diameter than the barrel. My bolt handle is about the diameter of a dime (maybe penny).

Sound about right?

 

[Mosinguy]

The receiver wouldn't have the knob sticking out past the back of the stock. The black "band" and cocking handle diameter tell me it's about the same vintage as mine. I remember the patent count on the barrel was a big indicator as well.

 

[Mosinguy]

I should post pics of mine when I get home. I can't seem to really explain the "streamlined" vs "blocky" receiver shape properly.

 

[TheEngineer]

Ill take a look at the number of patents when i get home and see if i can figure anything out.
Thanks for all of your help so far...ill have to post pics of mine, that is when its done of course

 

[TheEngineer]

Well guys, i just found a 32-page thread from another forum that is completely dedicated to the gill guns

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