Stevens Model 87B: Cleanup advice?

[Mosinguy]

That might've been the site I was on a long time ago looking for info on my rifle. Photobucket is uploading my pictures now so I'll have them up soon.

 

[Mosinguy]

So this stock now has four coats of boiled linseed oil rubbed into it. No stain. I sanded the wood bare and started to rub the oil in. Might not go any farther than what I have now.



When I say the rear of the receiver is blocky, I mean it looks like this:



Later models had more of a slope in the back.

Here are my patent dates:



Manufacture location:



And here's some ok quality cellphone pics. Tried to get the way the wood looked in detail but didn't do so good. Oh well.

 

[red_zr24x4]

Just looked at mine again, mine has a different cocking knob mines the size of a penny and is con-caved, plus..its a 87A other than that it looks pretty much the same.

 

[TheEngineer]

Take a look at the link I posted on the second page (post #20). You should be able to figure out how old your 87A is...found out that my Model 87B is a 1953!

Mosinguy...that is a good looking 87! That boiled linseed oil looks great...I wish I could get away with that but with my cracked stock, I'm afraid it wouldn't look that good. I'm thinking a darker stain might hide some of the repairs that I had to make.

Ill take some pictures of mine tonight and get them posted up tomorrow

 

[red_zr24x4]

I looked at the link you provided, mine doesn't seem to have a date code. It has a 6 on top of the barrel in front of the reciever and either a stylized m over n or a stylized 23( depending on which whay you hold it).
I'm going to go through the link some more.

 

[red_zr24x4]

This one is identical to mine with the exception of the last patent # only has one "7" on mine , and mine is not D&T for a scope and mine is caliber marked on the left side of the barrel under the sight -


Manufacturer: Springfield Model 87A
Factory: J. Stevens Arms Company, Chicopee Falls, Mass. USA. Roll marked .22 Short, Long or Long Rifle, Long Rifle Only as Automatic (No “Greaseless” notation)
Patents: 2094577, 2224758, 2223093, RE22585, 22771576 (upside down)
Receiver and sights: Standard post and rear sights. Has a Weaver N2 mount w/4 screws and a scope. Eight gills (slots) on right side one on left. Flat plug.
Barrel: 24” Not roll marked for ammunition other than in the manufacturers roll mark.
Charging handle: 3/4" knurled and dished with grooves in the face.
Trigger mechanism: Long.
Lifter: Solid w/coiled wire spring.
Stock: Birch with a light color finish.
Trigger guard: Cast (aluminum?) recessed into stock.
Magazine: Tube fed.

The above gun was purchased new in 1947 on the day it arrived a locally owned hardware store in Robinson, IL (still a list in early '47 for civilian guns after the war).

 

[TheEngineer]

Well, as promised, here are some pictures of my '53 Model 87B...Mosinguy, do some of these look familiar

Looks like my receiver is the same "blocky" style as yours


Here are my patent numbers, looks like they're the same


Manufacture location, "Chicopee Falls, Mass. U.S.A."


Now, are the 4 drill/tap holes that are shown the same ones you were saying were for a scope mount? There's 2 before the "bolt locked closed" hole (left of picture) and 2 more after the "bolt locked open" hole (right of picture)

 

[TheEngineer]

Wood glue doesn't work so well on cracks... try gorilla glue... more clean up sanding afterwards but it holds better.

And you are correct sir...second round of wood glue was a major fail as well

I unclamped it last night and gave it a slight "strength test" (bending it on against my thigh, very light pressure) and it snapped like a twig...almost split it in two Im going to bypass the Gorilla Glue and head straight for the hard stuff...2 part epoxy.

My plan is to clean ALL of the old glue off of the breaks (no longer cracks), im going to drill a few holes and "swiss cheese" the surface to give the epoxy some anchor points, wrap it in rubber tubing to provide traction and clamp it up. I plan to leave it alone for a few days, then drill 1-2 holes through the stock (perpendicular to the crack) and epoxy set a dowel pin in each hole. Then i'll let that dry, cut/sand the dowel pins flush and that should do it...it may not be the prettiest repair, but it will be a strong fix

 

[Mosinguy]

Yes, those holes on the left side of the receiver you pictured are for a scope mount.

 

[Slapstick]

And you are correct sir...second round of wood glue was a major fail as well

I unclamped it last night and gave it a slight "strength test" (bending it on against my thigh, very light pressure) and it snapped like a twig...almost split it in two Im going to bypass the Gorilla Glue and head straight for the hard stuff...2 part epoxy.

My plan is to clean ALL of the old glue off of the breaks (no longer cracks), im going to drill a few holes and "swiss cheese" the surface to give the epoxy some anchor points, wrap it in rubber tubing to provide traction and clamp it up. I plan to leave it alone for a few days, then drill 1-2 holes through the stock (perpendicular to the crack) and epoxy set a dowel pin in each hole. Then i'll let that dry, cut/sand the dowel pins flush and that should do it...it may not be the prettiest repair, but it will be a strong fix

At this point maybe a new stock is in order? I know $75 is a lot for a stock on a gun not worth much more than $100 but once you shoot it you see that it's money well spent! One of the funnest .22's I own.

 

[TheEngineer]

At this point maybe a new stock is in order? I know $75 is a lot for a stock on a gun not worth much more than $100 but once you shoot it you see that it's money well spent! One of the funnest .22's I own.

The epoxy/dowel pin method is going to be my last ditch effort...if it doesn't work, i will be in the market for a new stock.

But like you said, the guns worth around $100..so after replacing the stock and the extractor, ill be in for around $125....wait, something doesn't seem right

 

[TheEngineer]

Well I'm going to run out at lunch and pick up some epoxy/dowels for my stock repair. I was doing some research and found this J-B Weld WoodWeld-8251 at The Home Depot. Has anybody had any experience with this, good or bad?

 

[IndyGunworks]

I have used the putty version of JB wood weld. really strong stuff. not sure if I would use what I had for a crack, but I certainly wouldn't hesitate trying that other stuff you posted on yours.

Can you provide some photo's of where the crack is. it might help me give a little advice.

Is there room to drill a small hole or two through the top (or bottom) where you can insert a small wood dowel through both sides? that's about the only way to shore up a crack to be almost as strong as it was before..

 

[TheEngineer]

I have used the putty version of JB wood weld. really strong stuff. not sure if I would use what I had for a crack, but I certainly wouldn't hesitate trying that other stuff you posted on yours.

Can you provide some photo's of where the crack is. it might help me give a little advice.

Is there room to drill a small hole or two through the top (or bottom) where you can insert a small wood dowel through both sides? that's about the only way to shore up a crack to be almost as strong as it was before..

This is my game plan (from a previous post)...

And you are correct sir...second round of wood glue was a major fail as well

I unclamped it last night and gave it a slight "strength test" (bending it on against my thigh, very light pressure) and it snapped like a twig...almost split it in two Im going to bypass the Gorilla Glue and head straight for the hard stuff...2 part epoxy.

My plan is to clean ALL of the old glue off of the breaks (no longer cracks), im going to drill a few holes and "swiss cheese" the surface to give the epoxy some anchor points, wrap it in rubber tubing to provide traction and clamp it up. I plan to leave it alone for a few days, then drill 1-2 holes through the stock (perpendicular to the crack) and epoxy set a dowel pin in each hole. Then i'll let that dry, cut/sand the dowel pins flush and that should do it...it may not be the prettiest repair, but it will be a strong fix

I dont have any pictures of the stock on me, but here is one of Mosinguy's pictures that i drew on...

The bolder line that goes from the bolt to the trigger is on both sides in nearly identical places...its barely holding on down by the trigger guard, almost a complete break.

The other line is a small crack down the "grip" portion of the stock...it seemed to do pretty well with the wood glue and is still holding strong.

 

[IndyGunworks]

Not following what you are saying as well as I should, but don't wait for the first round to cure before you use the wood dowels... get those holes drilled first fill EVERYTHING up with epoxy... the dowels will just add to the strength and the expoxy will all be one cure. Less chance of recracking it while trying to add the dowels as well.

 

[Mosinguy]

Not following what you are saying as well as I should, but don't wait for the first round to cure before you use the wood dowels... get those holes drilled first fill EVERYTHING up with epoxy... the dowels will just add to the strength and the expoxy will all be one cure. Less chance of recracking it while trying to add the dowels as well.

I think he'll drill holes into the crack and use dowel rods to line up the stock properly and add to the strength of the repair. I've seen that done on rearsenaled Mosins.

Oh, and your signature is now invalid.

 

[TheEngineer]

I think he'll drill holes into the crack and use dowel rods to line up the stock properly and add to the strength of the repair. I've seen that done on rearsenaled Mosins.

Oh, and your signature is now invalid.

Close...i was planning on drilling multiple small holes on the face of the crack (the cross section of the wood where it is broken, from the inside out) about 1/4" deep to allow the epoxy to fill them and create anchor points. The dowel holes will start on the outside of the stock and drill perpendicularly through the crack.

Something like this...

 

[bdybdall]

I don't think relying on small holes small holes or pockets to fill with epoxy will do much for strength or alignment either way. As far as epoxy goes, it's not a bad choice but even conventional wood glue applied to a clean surface has twice the strength of the wood surrounding. Personally, I would soak the wood in a solvent like acetone or MEK to remove as much oil and grease as possible, let it sit for a few days to evaporate the solvent, clamp it together with rubber tubing, and drill it for multiple 1/4" dowels perpendicular to the break. Glue it together with your choice of glue and make sure you use (or make) spiral cut dowels. I would use dowel rod and make them long enough to stick out both sides of the stock and flush cut them after the glue sets up.

 

[IndyGunworks]

The small holes wont do much... roughing it up will do just the same thing. the dowels will give it strength and should be epoxied in at the same time the crack is epoxied so everything stays together at the same time. the more dowels the better. I would add at lease one more at the thinner section of the front of the stock, behind where the other two dowels are simulated. you can leave them stick out until the epoxy cures then cut them off and blend them in before refinishing. if the epoxy you have shown will take a stain it will blend in nicely.

if there is room on the inside of the stock you may consider a piece of flat stock steel epoxied into place on the inside as well, or dremel out a recess for it. doesn't need to be thick at all but will help hold it all together during handling after the expoy is cured.

 

[TheEngineer]

Thanks for all of the advice guys

Im pretty excited to get working on it...hopefully my weekend opens up enough to give me some time to tinker with it.