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NRL22 thread
- Thread starter T-DOGG
- Start date
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It's a Sig. Must have seen it on sale and bought it at midnight or something. It was there when I needed it. I had to fiddle with the setup to get the metal fittings placed where they would not be too uncomfortable.
It's a basic version of the quick length change slings everyone makes now. I used standard leather slings the same way my whole life.
I believe this is the sling you were referring to TD. A Cleckner cuff...
A few updates to the 457 for NRL22. I really wanted an Atlas bipod for this rifle, so I got a rail and the bipod coming. Another member also made me aware I was lacking a sling. Oops, little bit of oversight on my part.
Since I had a bunch of the Magpul MS1 slings with QD swivels and like their design, I decided to make one of those work for the rifle. I ended up cutting off about 18" from the sling to not have so much excess to deal with. In my opinion, they are WAY too long anyways, even for any of my AR's. I can use the sling the same ways that I was taught at Revere's Riders using the M1 Garand sling. Which is what I wanted, because those are proven methods of proper sling use.
My original plan to attach the front of the sling to the rifle was to use the QD socket built into the B&T Industries (makers of Atlas bipods) picatinny rail that I ordered. The rail fit like a charm using the existing two sling swivel stud holes. There is plenty of room under the barrel channel for hardware as it's deeply recessed from Boyds. However, I soon discovered my Atlas Cal bipod lever interfered with access to the socket. Had not accounted for that in my planning. I could flip the rail or bipod around to get access, but that either put the lever out front (not recommended by B&T and it looked dumb) or I could have the socket in front of the bipod, which made sling wrap over the bipod (did not like). Had not planned for this. Crap.
Decided to remove the rear screw, slide the rail all the way forward until the front screw was at the back of the elongated channel it sits in. Drilled a new hole for the rear screw and used the original rear hole as a spot for a QD socket. The socket is 1/2" thick and so is that area of the stock, so I drilled the hole 1/4" deep. Yes, it protrudes, but it's in there solid and I have no concerns about it's integrity.
Now onto the rear QD socket placement. I decided to leave the original stud hole there and go back about an inch. I got the hole perfectly drilled in my drill press, only to have the screw break off about 90% installed. Crap again. I had 2 options, drill another hole, or try and drill out the broken screw. I got most of the old screw out, but the new screw went in at a slight angle, but tightened up great. Yes, I wanted the socket to protrude a little bit and I had a very good reason why. Because that's what I decided originally and I didn't feel like arguing with myself, I never win that argument.
Final product and I'm happy. This should increase the shooting experience at the next range trip and next NRL22 event.
Since I had a bunch of the Magpul MS1 slings with QD swivels and like their design, I decided to make one of those work for the rifle. I ended up cutting off about 18" from the sling to not have so much excess to deal with. In my opinion, they are WAY too long anyways, even for any of my AR's. I can use the sling the same ways that I was taught at Revere's Riders using the M1 Garand sling. Which is what I wanted, because those are proven methods of proper sling use.
My original plan to attach the front of the sling to the rifle was to use the QD socket built into the B&T Industries (makers of Atlas bipods) picatinny rail that I ordered. The rail fit like a charm using the existing two sling swivel stud holes. There is plenty of room under the barrel channel for hardware as it's deeply recessed from Boyds. However, I soon discovered my Atlas Cal bipod lever interfered with access to the socket. Had not accounted for that in my planning. I could flip the rail or bipod around to get access, but that either put the lever out front (not recommended by B&T and it looked dumb) or I could have the socket in front of the bipod, which made sling wrap over the bipod (did not like). Had not planned for this. Crap.
Decided to remove the rear screw, slide the rail all the way forward until the front screw was at the back of the elongated channel it sits in. Drilled a new hole for the rear screw and used the original rear hole as a spot for a QD socket. The socket is 1/2" thick and so is that area of the stock, so I drilled the hole 1/4" deep. Yes, it protrudes, but it's in there solid and I have no concerns about it's integrity.
Now onto the rear QD socket placement. I decided to leave the original stud hole there and go back about an inch. I got the hole perfectly drilled in my drill press, only to have the screw break off about 90% installed. Crap again. I had 2 options, drill another hole, or try and drill out the broken screw. I got most of the old screw out, but the new screw went in at a slight angle, but tightened up great. Yes, I wanted the socket to protrude a little bit and I had a very good reason why. Because that's what I decided originally and I didn't feel like arguing with myself, I never win that argument.
Final product and I'm happy. This should increase the shooting experience at the next range trip and next NRL22 event.
I also bought a WeatherFlow weather meter and the Strelok Pro app for my phone. I'll be trying those out as well. I was using the weather meter out in the backyard earlier. The neighbors probably wondered why their crazy neighbor was walking around all over the place.You're on the right track getting actual info from your rifle and ammo to plug in.
Zeroed at 50yd, dope for my gear looks like this...300yd -145.85" 46.41 MOA
It's a long way out to 300 with .22LR.
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Your not crazy..... you just like to get stuff right!!!! You help the rest of this INGO crowd out with all your technical feedback, trials, target photos, gear reviews, good deal finds......
Strelok Pro is the bees pajamas. Makes life much easier.
I've been known to my neighbors as the crazy guy that rides mountain bikes around the woods in the dark and the crazy guy that's often up in the trees. At least those are to ones they've told me about.
I got a Kestral 2000 Friday to get a better feel for wind speeds. Should have got one decades ago when I was into two line kites although I only really needed to know two speeds...not enough to get off the ground and strong enough to drag me around. Everything inbetween was gtg.
Two line kites will flat haul your ass in the air with a gust.
The next NRL22 rifle build moves forward. This one is semi auto.
Arken SH4 6-24x50 scope and Arken 34mm rings. Kidd receiver, bolt and all internals.
Should see all of that in about one month. Arken shows 3 week backorder on the scope, Kidd shows July 23rd on the receiver/bolt.
It will look like this, but none of the T/CR22 stuff anymore, it will be all Kidd except the trigger housing (Ruger, thanks TJ !) and barrel (Feddersen). I specifically wanted the Kidd receiver for the rear tang that gives a 2nd action screw. And the KRG Bravo is designed to work with that Kidd rear tang.
Arken SH4 6-24x50 scope and Arken 34mm rings. Kidd receiver, bolt and all internals.
Should see all of that in about one month. Arken shows 3 week backorder on the scope, Kidd shows July 23rd on the receiver/bolt.
It will look like this, but none of the T/CR22 stuff anymore, it will be all Kidd except the trigger housing (Ruger, thanks TJ !) and barrel (Feddersen). I specifically wanted the Kidd receiver for the rear tang that gives a 2nd action screw. And the KRG Bravo is designed to work with that Kidd rear tang.
If upgrading is your goal, you have come to the right group of enablers! Not only will they spend your money but they will give you excellent advice.
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