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  • churchmouse

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    Patience I have. I need to develop some skill with the file.

    Marking the pin with a punch is a good idea. Will need to keep that in mind.

    Also, the finish on the ejector was flaking off. I am surprised. All the other bits I have gotten from Wilson Combat have been good.

    EGW or Shooters supply. I stopped using Wilson a few years ago.

    And get a set of files. Use the round one in these areas for a solid purchase.
     

    drillsgt

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    Got the Ejector installed. Had to cut the relief in it for the pin. This was more of a challenge than I expected (to do with any level of precision. I cut it with a small file. For any future builds, I will look for pre-cut ejectors. I am not sure what the advantage would be of doing this oneself. I get fitting the barrel, thumb-safety, rails, bushing, etc. But, the ejector? Seems like the chances of cutting that to a better fit with a small file is unlikely.

    What am I missing?

    I don't know too many ejectors that would be pre-cut, I saw one SPFD that looked like it but you wouldn't want to use that one anyway. CM described it pretty well, it's one of those things like fitting a safety, it's not that hard but easy to mess up. I do it the same way, put the ejector in and mark it with a pin punch, the key is where you start your cut since your file is going to be much larger than the pin diameter. I always start above the mark so I make sure the bottom of my cut coincides with the bottom radius of my punch mark. It doesn't matter how much you cut above the punch mark just so the bottom of the cut is snug with the ejector pin. If you do it the opposite way or just run your file straight over the punch mark that is what allows the ejector to move up and down. About the only Wilson parts I will use anymore are the beavertails, they give a nice fit, otherwise i've pretty much moved on to Harrison Design parts by John Harrison.
     

    johny5

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    I don't know too many ejectors that would be pre-cut, I saw one SPFD that looked like it but you wouldn't want to use that one anyway. CM described it pretty well, it's one of those things like fitting a safety, it's not that hard but easy to mess up. I do it the same way, put the ejector in and mark it with a pin punch, the key is where you start your cut since your file is going to be much larger than the pin diameter. I always start above the mark so I make sure the bottom of my cut coincides with the bottom radius of my punch mark. It doesn't matter how much you cut above the punch mark just so the bottom of the cut is snug with the ejector pin. If you do it the opposite way or just run your file straight over the punch mark that is what allows the ejector to move up and down. About the only Wilson parts I will use anymore are the beavertails, they give a nice fit, otherwise i've pretty much moved on to Harrison Design parts by John Harrison.

    Really appreciate the clarification from you and CM. I was pretty frustrated after spending so much time on the ejector and getting a fit that I was not satisfied with.
     

    drillsgt

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    johny5

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    With that Brownells tool being 50.00 it'd probably be better to just get the slide to AllenM and have a novak dovetail cut.

    These were listed as novak front and rear. However the front site still has a hole in it. It had to be pressed in with a sight pusher. Do it still need to be staked? I feel silly asking, but hey - first time.
     

    churchmouse

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    These were listed as novak front and rear. However the front site still has a hole in it. It had to be pressed in with a sight pusher. Do it still need to be staked? I feel silly asking, but hey - first time.

    If you stake it that's the way the MFG finds and maintains zero on site to bore alignment. If you pin it make sure the pin does not interfere with the barrel bushing. If you look its obvious what I am referring to.

    I have a pusher that Kimber marketed that does both front and rear. No fan of that Marque and I am sure it is only badged but it works.
     

    drillsgt

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    These were listed as novak front and rear. However the front site still has a hole in it. It had to be pressed in with a sight pusher. Do it still need to be staked? I feel silly asking, but hey - first time.

    If you have a novak front and rear cut you don't need a staker then. The hole in the front sight is just for a small roll pin that you could tap into the slide if there's a hole in your slide too. Dovetail sights don't get staked, you're good.
     

    johny5

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    Thanks, gents! Good info. Getting close. Still need to fit the mag catch. Then, at some point, need to get to a range and see if this thing will run.
     

    johny5

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    Took it to the range today. It cycled and shot well. 1 Failure-to-feed on 50 rounds. It was a great feeling running a weapon for which I've held every single individual part in my hand. Difficult to describe it, but man, it was gratifying!

    IMG_2555.JPG
     

    churchmouse

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    I understand that it is your professional opinion that I need to take this to the range regularly and put prodigious amounts of ammunition through it to break it in. I will break the difficult news to my wife...


    :ar15:

    Hey I am good for this. Tell her the mouse said so and report back.....:):
     
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