1911 build

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  • churchmouse

    I still care....Really
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    Any suggestions/warnings for installing the barrel link pin?

    The armorers block is a real plus here. It has places to put the barrel to stabilize it. The pin is very tight. I use a set of needle nose to hold the pin as my pin starter punches do not have that size. Tap it into place. put the link in the slot and tap the pin in being careful to have the link lined up.

    Did the link come with the barrel....????
     

    johny5

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    The armorers block is a real plus here. It has places to put the barrel to stabilize it. The pin is very tight. I use a set of needle nose to hold the pin as my pin starter punches do not have that size. Tap it into place. put the link in the slot and tap the pin in being careful to have the link lined up.

    Did the link come with the barrel....????

    No, the link did not come with the barrel. I purchased as set of 5 from Wilson Combat.

    Yeah, I have a set of Grace pin starter punches - they do not have one for that size either. Maybe an enterprising INGO'er will produce a few. If so, add me to the list of interested buyers.
     

    churchmouse

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    No, the link did not come with the barrel. I purchased as set of 5 from Wilson Combat.

    Yeah, I have a set of Grace pin starter punches - they do not have one for that size either. Maybe an enterprising INGO'er will produce a few. If so, add me to the list of interested buyers.

    When you get the link installed make sure it does not interfere with the barrel ramp as in extend below the ramp. The pin needs to ride the ramp not the link.
     

    johny5

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    The beavertail looks pretty good you just have the final blending to do. What kind of barrel did you get, a Wilson? Is it a drop-in or gunsmith fit?

    Thanks. Yeah, I need to do the blending. I read that there is a gadget that can be placed behind the grip safety to hold it in the high position during the blending process, but I do not know what it is called. Anyone know what I am referring to?

    The barrel is a Wilson Combat, drop in. I figure I will go for the match fit on a future build.

    Trying to decide the best time to install the plunger tube. If I am going to strip and blue the frame, should I wait to install the stainless plunger tube?
     

    johny5

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    The flat area on the part above the pin. You can see the printing where it contacts the sear when it locks up. This one is a spare and if used would still need a bit of love.
    I use an Armorers block that has a jig in it to do this and get it square too the rest of the ignition parts.
    hhFuqvC.jpg

    Am I fitting this with the Hammer in the cocked position?
     

    johny5

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    Yes. If you remove the grip safety you can see where it contacts the Ignition controls. And roughly how much you will need to remove.

    Thanks, CM. Feels like something is not right. Either it is something really obvious, or I am just being unduly apprehensive. Here's what I am seeing.

    IMG_2540.jpg
     

    churchmouse

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    Thanks, CM. Feels like something is not right. Either it is something really obvious, or I am just being unduly apprehensive. Here's what I am seeing.

    View attachment 86699

    It is obviously contacting the side of the sear and it should glide in on top of it. This is a critical part of the fit up. Take too much off and trash the safety. Not enough an it will not operate after you force it into place.
    If you look at the pic I posted you can see the contact point. I used that one as it is visible even though it needs just an RCH more material removed to get it to glide.

    BCH.
    RCH.
    BCH are all very specific measurements.....:):
     

    drillsgt

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    Thanks, CM. Feels like something is not right. Either it is something really obvious, or I am just being unduly apprehensive. Here's what I am seeing.

    View attachment 86699

    That's not bad you won't need to take that much off, take a little off and retry until it will pretty much press fit in and check for movement, from there I usually marker it up and move it up and down and it will usually show you a drag line, from there i go really really slow.
     

    johny5

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    It is obviously contacting the side of the sear and it should glide in on top of it. This is a critical part of the fit up. Take too much off and trash the safety. Not enough an it will not operate after you force it into place.
    If you look at the pic I posted you can see the contact point. I used that one as it is visible even though it needs just an RCH more material removed to get it to glide.

    BCH.
    RCH.
    BCH are all very specific measurements.....:):

    Alright, it fits. Looks like :poop:, but it fits.
     

    churchmouse

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    That's not bad you won't need to take that much off, take a little off and retry until it will pretty much press fit in and check for movement, from there I usually marker it up and move it up and down and it will usually show you a drag line, from there i go really really slow.

    This. Get in no hurry. None.
     

    EPeter213

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    Dec 4, 2016
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    Floyd/Harrison
    It is obviously contacting the side of the sear and it should glide in on top of it. This is a critical part of the fit up. Take too much off and trash the safety. Not enough an it will not operate after you force it into place.
    If you look at the pic I posted you can see the contact point. I used that one as it is visible even though it needs just an RCH more material removed to get it to glide.

    BCH.
    RCH.
    BCH are all very specific measurements.....:):

    I believe I am familiar with the CH as a unit of measurement, but can only infer the meaning of the B R and B subcategories. They wouldn’t happen to be color coded by chance?

    If so I can only guess RCH would be the smallest increment?
     
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