1911 build

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  • johny5

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    Rough it in with the "D" tool

    Finish it up by hand.

    I've been hand-lapping it for the last two days while on conference calls, constantly checking the fit. This afternoon, the thumb safety was suddenly able to slide in. Super gratifying! I have not blended it to the frame yet, but it fits.
    :rockwoot:
     

    churchmouse

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    I've been hand-lapping it for the last two days while on conference calls, constantly checking the fit. This afternoon, the thumb safety was suddenly able to slide in. Super gratifying! I have not blended it to the frame yet, but it fits.
    :rockwoot:

    It is very rewarding.
     

    churchmouse

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    Now the thumb safety. It fits in the frame, but will not transition from one position to another. Here goes nothin'...

    You do know where to start removing material yes. Little steps. Tiny baby steps.

    When you get close you can get a "Print" on the safety from contact with the sear.
     

    wcd

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    I have embarked on my first 1911 build. I am fitting the barrel bushing. The barrel fits inside the bushing, but it is so tight that it is difficult to pull the slide back, by hand. Should I leave it this snug? Will it break in? Or, should I ream it out just a smidge more?


    Ah this topic is missing something.....Pictures
     

    churchmouse

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    The flat area on the part above the pin. You can see the printing where it contacts the sear when it locks up. This one is a spare and if used would still need a bit of love.
    I use an Armorers block that has a jig in it to do this and get it square too the rest of the ignition parts.
    hhFuqvC.jpg
     

    johny5

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    IMG_2344.JPG
    Ah this topic is missing something.....Pictures

    I rust blued the slide before starting the work. I figured it was a practice run and was pleased with how it came out, but I will strip it and the frame, polish and re-blue when done fitting.
     

    johny5

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    I use an Armorers block that has a jig in it to do this and get it square too the rest of the ignition parts.

    I have a Wheeler's universal, but doubt that is what you are referring to. Is there a specific block I should be looking for? With the current state of lockdown, I have plenty of time to look for and wait on gunsmithing apparatuses.

    Is it the 10-8 Performance block?
     
    Last edited:

    churchmouse

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    I have a Wheeler's universal, but doubt that is what you are referring to. Is there a specific block I should be looking for? With the current state of lockdown, I have plenty of time to look for and wait on gunsmithing apparatuses.

    Is it the 10-8 Performance block?

    Yes I have the 10-8 block. It has holes and jigs all over it that covers a wide area of uses.

    Where are you located in Indy. PM if you want to remain grey.
     

    drillsgt

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    Now the thumb safety. It fits in the frame, but will not transition from one position to another. Here goes nothin'...

    Some might have jumped the gun when you said your thumb safety won't move by talking about fitting to the sear, either that or i'm just behind your progress. If you got to the point that you can get your thumb safety in that's probably only 50% done and you likely still need to do more marking and filing to where your thumb safety will move freely. Sometimes this stage can be very tedious and if you have a really good fit around the frame radius and your thumb safety is still a bit tight you may have to work a little in the frame hole or the safety axle. You are still on the right track.
     

    johny5

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    Some might have jumped the gun when you said your thumb safety won't move by talking about fitting to the sear, either that or i'm just behind your progress. If you got to the point that you can get your thumb safety in that's probably only 50% done and you likely still need to do more marking and filing to where your thumb safety will move freely. Sometimes this stage can be very tedious and if you have a really good fit around the frame radius and your thumb safety is still a bit tight you may have to work a little in the frame hole or the safety axle. You are still on the right track.

    Yep - you are right. The clearance for the thumb safety, the portion that clears the frame, was too tight. I had to file a bit off it to get it to move between the two positions. It is now switching. Thanks to CM, I have an armorer's block to create the thumb-safety-to-sear fit, on the way.
     
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    johny5

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    Always wanted to do this, please keep the updates coming. Ill be checking in!
    Wish someone in Indiana would create a 1911 smithing class.

    This project started when I bought a frame and slide at a discount from an online retailer who was getting out of the 1911 business. I thought it was a good 'budget' way to get a decent 1911. Between tools, jigs, sandpaper, bluing supplies - I could have easily bought a Kimber. But I am learning so much in the process that I'm glad I undertook this project.

    If you want to have a pistol that you know and understand, into which you've invested yourself, this is the way to go.
     

    churchmouse

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    This project started when I bought a frame and slide at a discount from an online retailer who was getting out of the 1911 business. I thought it was a good 'budget' way to get a decent 1911. Between tools, jigs, sandpaper, bluing supplies - I could have easily bought a Kimber. But I am learning so much in the process that I'm glad I undertook this project.

    If you want to have a pistol that you know and understand, into which you've invested yourself, this is the way to go.

    Man I for one am so glad you did not buy a Kimber.....:):
     

    churchmouse

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    You may want to wait till you see how this one turns out before you take too bold a stance, either way...:spend:

    Just to be clear and not cause butts to be hurt. If you have Kimbers and you like them good on you. I hope they serve you well for a long time.
    Me, I am done with them for many reasons.
     
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