Good gunsmithing tools for home use

[gregr]

I`m not a terribly handy guy, but I want to be able to do things like remove scope mounts, etc., for myself from my rifles and shotguns. What are the decent, and reasonably priced gunsmithing tool sets available that would allow me to do things like that? Any recommendations at all on brands, or types, or even specific tool sets?

 

[Chase515]

I use a Wheeler fat wrench along Wheeler scope leveling kit. A plumb bob is a good idea and can be made out of anything. I bought the wheeler gunsmithing screw driver set for the extra bits that come in handy. I used a cheap gun vice from walmart for years. Until my youngest son took it apart. Picked up a tipton gun vice at rural king to fill the roll.

 

[Rosenbah]

gregr,
Thanks for starting this thread. I really like the idea of helping folks find good tool ideas. I'll look back often.

Does anyone have a good method for organizing all of their tools? i have three card board boes and that is not ideal!

Thanks!

 

[Rosenbah]

oops! Cardboard boxes. Dang, which box has that Glock tool???

 

[gregr]

I use a Wheeler fat wrench along Wheeler scope leveling kit. A plumb bob is a good idea and can be made out of anything. I bought the wheeler gunsmithing screw driver set for the extra bits that come in handy. I used a cheap gun vice from walmart for years. Until my youngest son took it apart. Picked up a tipton gun vice at rural king to fill the roll.

I`m so glad you mentioned the maintenance vice, that was going to be my next subject. Good to know Rural King has a good gun vice too, I got a gift card from Rural King for Christmas!
You mention screw drivers, should I have torque tools too?

 

[bwframe]

I have had a Chapman gun screwdriver set for years.

Love to have one of these, but haven't sprung for it yet.

Fix It Sticks All-In-One Torque Limiter Bit Driver Kit Pouch

The Fix It Sticks All-In-One allows you to tighten down your scope rings, mounts, action screws, and more while in the filed, at the range, or at home....

www.midwayusa.com

 

[Chase515]

The Wheeler Fat Wrench is a adjustable torque wrench. It comes with some common bits you'll find on scope bases and rings. I found out quickly there are way more different fasteners used on bases and rings than comes in the box with the fat wrench.

 

[snapping turtle]

Original question:

A brass hammer with the other side plastic. Does not have to be heavy about an inch diameter or so. A set of brass pin punches.
A set of hollow ground screwdriver bits. A wheeler fat wrench with the torque gauge. Like above said a couple of Small levels a small vice with leather inserts made for gunsmithing.

Back in the day I would have said a one in and 30 millimeter round bar stock for lapping rings. I have seen little advantage of this with the quality of the CNC machines used for quality rings I have purchased in the last ten years. Spend the money on good rings forget the lapping bars. (Leave the gun take the cannolis)

The INGO answer to original question.

Brass wool for removing rust. A scotch brite pad or two. Some sandpaper of very fine grit a scope Dental picks for those hard to get to places that get carbon build up.qtips s Maybe a small mirror on a a stick for seeing weird places. Basic cleaning supplies. Patches oils copper solvents ect. Some good wax. And I now use a small magnifying glass. A good adjustable light.

That above can be purchased about anywhere. I got all of these things used except the wheeler and the hollow ground bits. (I ordered them for midway and Midwest supplies)

Now the special tools can most likely be forgotten but good deals on things like a barrel nut wrench 870 forearm removal tools ect can be picked up when you may see them at gun shows and estate sales. A good inside and outside micrometers while not ever needed is a good investment as I see them as amazing instruments even if you never use them. A bore light. (Let me look in the box) string a good set of brass rods for cleaning a tape measure (small one) brass brushes a few black and brown sharpie markers (quick blueing touchup or stock repair color) tooth brushes lots of toothbrushes Allen bits metic and standard. Leather hole punch leather conditioner. I think you get the picture. I have a Kennedy tool box I bough here that holds all that stuff minus the cleaning liquids.

Cigar humidor cigar cutter cigar bourbon glass bottle and ice (or just a pinch of water. )

And at last about 6 pounds of bacon cause bacon makes everything better.

You can thank me later

 

[Born2vette]

Original question:

A brass hammer with the other side plastic. Does not have to be heavy about an inch diameter or so. A set of brass pin punches.
A set of hollow ground screwdriver bits. A wheeler fat wrench with the torque gauge. Like above said a couple of Small levels a small vice with leather inserts made for gunsmithing.

Back in the day I would have said a one in and 30 millimeter round bar stock for lapping rings. I have seen little advantage of this with the quality of the CNC machines used for quality rings I have purchased in the last ten years. Spend the money on good rings forget the lapping bars. (Leave the gun take the cannolis)

The INGO answer to original question.

Brass wool for removing rust. A scotch brite pad or two. Some sandpaper of very fine grit a scope Dental picks for those hard to get to places that get carbon build up.qtips s Maybe a small mirror on a a stick for seeing weird places. Basic cleaning supplies. Patches oils copper solvents ect. Some good wax. And I now use a small magnifying glass. A good adjustable light.

That above can be purchased about anywhere. I got all of these things used except the wheeler and the hollow ground bits. (I ordered them for midway and Midwest supplies)

Now the special tools can most likely be forgotten but good deals on things like a barrel nut wrench 870 forearm removal tools ect can be picked up when you may see them at gun shows and estate sales. A good inside and outside micrometers while not ever needed is a good investment as I see them as amazing instruments even if you never use them. A bore light. (Let me look in the box) string a good set of brass rods for cleaning a tape measure (small one) brass brushes a few black and brown sharpie markers (quick blueing touchup or stock repair color) tooth brushes lots of toothbrushes Allen bits metic and standard. Leather hole punch leather conditioner. I think you get the picture. I have a Kennedy tool box I bough here that holds all that stuff minus the cleaning liquids.

Cigar humidor cigar cutter cigar bourbon glass bottle and ice (or just a pinch of water. )

And at last about 6 pounds of bacon cause bacon makes everything better.

You can thank me later

As above, substitute good single malt scotch for bourbon

 

[armalitesheepdog]

gregr,
Thanks for starting this thread. I really like the idea of helping folks find good tool ideas. I'll look back often.

Does anyone have a good method for organizing all of their tools? i have three card board boes and that is not ideal!

Thanks!

This box from Harbor Freight. Like 68 bucks when I bought this one

 

[gregr]

Original question:

A brass hammer with the other side plastic. Does not have to be heavy about an inch diameter or so. A set of brass pin punches.
A set of hollow ground screwdriver bits. A wheeler fat wrench with the torque gauge. Like above said a couple of Small levels a small vice with leather inserts made for gunsmithing.

Back in the day I would have said a one in and 30 millimeter round bar stock for lapping rings. I have seen little advantage of this with the quality of the CNC machines used for quality rings I have purchased in the last ten years. Spend the money on good rings forget the lapping bars. (Leave the gun take the cannolis)

The INGO answer to original question.

Brass wool for removing rust. A scotch brite pad or two. Some sandpaper of very fine grit a scope Dental picks for those hard to get to places that get carbon build up.qtips s Maybe a small mirror on a a stick for seeing weird places. Basic cleaning supplies. Patches oils copper solvents ect. Some good wax. And I now use a small magnifying glass. A good adjustable light.

That above can be purchased about anywhere. I got all of these things used except the wheeler and the hollow ground bits. (I ordered them for midway and Midwest supplies)

Now the special tools can most likely be forgotten but good deals on things like a barrel nut wrench 870 forearm removal tools ect can be picked up when you may see them at gun shows and estate sales. A good inside and outside micrometers while not ever needed is a good investment as I see them as amazing instruments even if you never use them. A bore light. (Let me look in the box) string a good set of brass rods for cleaning a tape measure (small one) brass brushes a few black and brown sharpie markers (quick blueing touchup or stock repair color) tooth brushes lots of toothbrushes Allen bits metic and standard. Leather hole punch leather conditioner. I think you get the picture. I have a Kennedy tool box I bough here that holds all that stuff minus the cleaning liquids.

Cigar humidor cigar cutter cigar bourbon glass bottle and ice (or just a pinch of water. )

And at last about 6 pounds of bacon cause bacon makes everything better.

You can thank me later

No sir, I`ll thank you right now. I`m sincerely appreciative for you sharing your expertice.

 

[gmcttr]

Love to have one of these, but haven't sprung for it yet.

Fix It Sticks All-In-One Torque Limiter Bit Driver Kit Pouch

The Fix It Sticks All-In-One allows you to tighten down your scope rings, mounts, action screws, and more while in the filed, at the range, or at home....

www.midwayusa.com

Get it. You will be happy and wonder why you waited.

I have 3 of those sets now and a few extra of their tools. Started with one and quickly added more to have conveniently placed around the house and range bag.

 

[Mongo59]

Some people think all you need is a Dremmel...

 

[Mongo59]

All joking aside, a soldering tool to heat up screws that have LocTite on them, candle wax for stuck rusty screws.

Before twisting a screw take one solid tap with a mallet to the end of the driver handle, it will make all the difference. Be sure NOT to use a magnetic handle for this.

For dressing up old rusted butt plate screws: use a dental tool to clean out slot, brush from all angles with a stainless steel brush, heat with propane torch for 3-4 seconds (using hemostats) and dip it into ATF (the old stuff not the new synthetic).

You will be amazed how much better your gun looks by simply getting all the gunk out of the screw slots.

I also keep a sanding disc in my cordless drill with the synthetic sand paper (Scotch Brite) to buff all the curls off of the molested screw heads. For really messed up heads: a tack hammer and a nylon block. Make a suitable hole in the block to support the head while allowing the threads to recess and tap the metal back into place with the tack hammer. Buff with the cordless drill and heat/tranny fluid them. A lot cheaper than buying new ones for $2-10 each.

 

[gregr]

All joking aside, a soldering tool to heat up screws that have LocTite on them, candle wax for stuck rusty screws.

Before twisting a screw take one solid tap with a mallet to the end of the driver handle, it will make all the difference. Be sure NOT to use a magnetic handle for this.

For dressing up old rusted butt plate screws: use a dental tool to clean out slot, brush from all angles with a stainless steel brush, heat with propane torch for 3-4 seconds (using hemostats) and dip it into ATF (the old stuff not the new synthetic).

You will be amazed how much better your gun looks by simply getting all the gunk out of the screw slots.

I also keep a sanding disc in my cordless drill with the synthetic sand paper (Scotch Brite) to buff all the curls off of the molested screw heads. For really messed up heads: a tack hammer and a nylon block. Make a suitable hole in the block to support the head while allowing the threads to recess and tap the metal back into place with the tack hammer. Buff with the cordless drill and heat/tranny fluid them. A lot cheaper than buying new ones for $2-10 each.

There is a ton of solid knowledge in this place.

 

[Jaybird1980]

All joking aside, a soldering tool to heat up screws that have LocTite on them, candle wax for stuck rusty screws.

Before twisting a screw take one solid tap with a mallet to the end of the driver handle, it will make all the difference. Be sure NOT to use a magnetic handle for this.

For dressing up old rusted butt plate screws: use a dental tool to clean out slot, brush from all angles with a stainless steel brush, heat with propane torch for 3-4 seconds (using hemostats) and dip it into ATF (the old stuff not the new synthetic).

You will be amazed how much better your gun looks by simply getting all the gunk out of the screw slots.

I also keep a sanding disc in my cordless drill with the synthetic sand paper (Scotch Brite) to buff all the curls off of the molested screw heads. For really messed up heads: a tack hammer and a nylon block. Make a suitable hole in the block to support the head while allowing the threads to recess and tap the metal back into place with the tack hammer. Buff with the cordless drill and heat/tranny fluid them. A lot cheaper than buying new ones for $2-10 each.

Tell me more about this candle wax for stuck screws?

 

[Mongo59]

Tell me more about this candle wax for stuck screws?

You heat the screw with a small propane torch (I use a cigar lighter from the tobacco stores), the two metals expand at different rates. When warm, touch with the end of a birthday candle allowing the candle to melt down on the screw. A little more heat if necessary, and let cool. The paraffin will occupy the crevices created by the heating and allow the screw to turn and come out. Repeat if necessary. Don't get too aggressive. I learned this from way back when you had to get steel screws out of an aluminum carb bowl on cars.

 

[Jaybird1980]

You heat the screw with a small propane torch (I use a cigar lighter from the tobacco stores), the two metals expand at different rates. When warm, touch with the end of a birthday candle allowing the candle to melt down on the screw. A little more heat if necessary, and let cool. The paraffin will occupy the crevices created by the heating and allow the screw to turn and come out. Repeat if necessary. Don't get too aggressive. I learned this from way back when you had to get steel screws out of an aluminum carb bowl on cars.

Will definitely be giving this a try.

 

[Tactically Fat]

Jeweler's screw drivers. Maybe even two sets. I cannot tell you how invaluable the smallest flat-head has been at removing carbon fouling from under extractors as well as tight corners in/around bolt faces and what not. But it takes judicious application of the screwdriver as to not mar the surfaces.

A micro screwdriver set that contains all the specialty bits - especially Torx.

Some kind of torque wrench. I wish now that I had a FAT wrench and not the uni-directional small beam-style that I have now.

Pick set, both metal and polymer.

Toothbrush.

Tooth-brush-sized steel, bronze, and plastic bristles.

GOOD LIGHTING that's adjustable as to brightness, focus, and location if you can. One of my Christmas presents this year was a large lighted magnifying lamp. Like they used to use to search for head lice in schools.

 

[marvin02]

Some kind of torque wrench. I wish now that I had a FAT wrench and not the uni-directional small beam-style that I have now.

I have both. The Fat Wrench for lower torque settings and the beam for higher settings.

A headlamp is useful for hands free illumination.