The Official Hot Rod Thread - Part 4: Burnouts for Distance

[churchmouse]

To get to the point of just being able to check the timing marks would be a minimum of probably four hours for me. You have to remove the inner fender guards, all of the “front” drive accessories, the crank pulley, and the timing cover. There are no external markings.

When you said it got angry what did it sound like.
Yes you will here the chain skip but it being an interference engine that will sound ugly.

 

[Jaybird1980]

I would still at least turn it over by hand, that would tell me most of what i would need to know

 

[ChristianPatriot]

When you said it got angry what did it sound like.
Yes you will here the chain skip but it being an interference engine that will sound ugly.

It’s a belt, so it wasn’t chain noise. The shop in Franklin said it was backfiring into the intake when they tried to get it to start. So to me that’s either bent valves or timing being out of wack. Either case doesn’t make me feel great about the potential of the engine being undamaged.

 

[churchmouse]

It’s a belt, so it wasn’t chain noise. The shop in Franklin said it was backfiring into the intake when they tried to get it to start. So to me that’s either bent valves or timing being out of wack. Either case doesn’t make me feel great about the potential of the engine being undamaged.

Sounds like you want a newer Mini.......

 

[ChristianPatriot]

Sounds like you want a newer Mini.......

Not really actually. Well that’s not true. I’d love a new minivan. I don’t want to pay for a new minivan is more accurate to say.

 

[churchmouse]

Not really actually. Well that’s not true. I’d love a new minivan. I don’t want to pay for a new minivan is more accurate to say.

Not sure what the exploratory would cost on yours but if it just needs the heads and belt done then buy a couple of years.
It also may be that you did not change the much hated cam timing "BELT" at the suggested point in it's fuse.

 

[ChristianPatriot]

Not sure what the exploratory would cost on yours but if it just needs the heads and belt done then buy a couple of years.
It also may be that you did not change the much hated cam timing "BELT" at the suggested point in it's fuse.

Oh that’s definitely true. I’ve since learned that 100k is the recommended interval. Mine was at 115k-ish. Boom.

 

[churchmouse]

Oh that’s definitely true. I’ve since learned that 100k is the recommended interval. Mine was at 115k-ish. Boom.

Yup. I hate the belts just for that reason but on those engines I understand.

 

[ChristianPatriot]

Maybe not that color. But yeah this is like my #1 dream car. Absolute perfection.

 

[churchmouse]

Sounds like a beast.

 

[maxwelhse]

Hard to find one in my budget that has less than 200k miles lol

With a clean body from out west, I'd do that.

To get to the point of just being able to check the timing marks would be a minimum of probably four hours for me. You have to remove the inner fender guards, all of the “front” drive accessories, the crank pulley, and the timing cover. There are no external markings.

Better get to it then. None of it is hard, just annoying. I'd still just scope the bores before doing anything. Could see bent valves smashed into the cylinders and all sorts of other fun stuff for maybe an hour of effort.

 

[Jaybird1980]

Seriously the old school diagnosis for this is easy, it took me longer to find this video.



Edit: just pay attention to the first part, and linking youtube videos appears to be easier

 

[ChristianPatriot]

Seriously the old school diagnosis for this is easy, it took me longer to find this video.



Edit: just pay attention to the first part, and linking youtube videos appears to be easier

Wish it were that easy on the Town and Country, but like I said earlier, it just isn’t.

 

[ChristianPatriot]

Other than barring it over by hand, you might feel something and you might not. There are no external timing marks, no windows to the cam timing, nothing. Thanks Chrysler.

 

[Brad69]

If you can pull the # 1 plug and then pull the valve cover off that bank. You can bring #1 up to TDC and both valves would be closed if the belt is good.

IME you broke the belt with no internal damage.

All the Chrysler mini things and most of the semi junk front wheel drive stuff I have worked on. Have the most room if you take off the pass front wheel and liner the remove half shaft.

Replace the water pump you are already under that stupid black engine cover. Use small puller to get stupid tight bottom pulley off.

Remove engine cover the belt will most likely not be broke just jumped time a tooth or two. Use the bolt out of the bottom pulley to bar engine to TDC check belt marks.
Replace water pump and timing belt about a 4 hour job.

 

[ChristianPatriot]

If you can pull the # 1 plug and then pull the valve cover off that bank. You can bring #1 up to TDC and both valves would be closed if the belt is good.

IME you broke the belt with no internal damage.

All the Chrysler mini things and most of the semi junk front wheel drive stuff I have worked on. Have the most room if you take off the pass front wheel and liner the remove half shaft.

Replace the water pump you are already under that stupid black engine cover. Use small puller to get stupid tight bottom pulley off.

Remove engine cover the belt will most likely not be broke just jumped time a tooth or two. Use the bolt out of the bottom pulley to bar engine to TDC check belt marks.
Replace water pump and timing belt about a 4 hour job.

And the horrific metal-on-metal sound of an engine chewing itself to death that happened seconds before it died?

 

[Brad69]

Yeah CP that would be a game changer!

Do you have a borescope?

Trying to find a way to not have pull the engine it’s a pain.

 

[ChristianPatriot]

Yeah CP that would be a game changer!

Do you have a borescope?

Trying to find a way to not have pull the engine it’s a pain.

If it got that far, I’d just drop the whole subframe.

 

[maxwelhse]

If it got that far, I’d just drop the whole subframe.

That's about the only way to do it on a van. Any FWD V6 is a nightmare, but vans are the worst.

 

[churchmouse]

And the horrific metal-on-metal sound of an engine chewing itself to death that happened seconds before it died?

That was what I asked for as to the sound it made.
If it got that angry then yes it is most likely done.

Key words/phrases here.

1, interference engine.
2"Horrific" metal on metal sound.
3 either put a scrap yard engine in it and trade it off or buy a Moped....