Generator/ emergency power skills and information

[Car Ramrod]

Generac are great units. I am a dealer and certified service tech for them. I have a GP 5500 for my back-up power and for an inexpensive unit it works flawlessly. If you want an automaticly transfering unit you will spend more money, it is all in what you want. I don't see many major problems with the generac units, usually simple sensor issues or mouse damage. Mice will cause more damage than anything especially if your unit has a block heater.

In my honest opinion.. Some of the top brands for small home (portable) power supply are the following, with some notes..

Honda - expensive but very good
Genrac - reliable, moderatly priced
Honeywell - mid level, reliable, lower priced
Gillette -Indiana company, higher priced then some, reliability is good
Anything from Harbor Freight, etc. - better than nothing..

A place for info..

Best Portable Generators | Top Picks and Reviews at ConsumerSearch

As for technology..

An inverter unit is much cleaner power, usually lighter weight, better fuel economy but way higer prices..

Non-Inverter units should be ran and loaded a couple times a year, I run my generators at least tow or three times a year, running the actual emergency circuits of my house just to make sure eveything is good.

If your unit does not have an hour meter, put on on it or record the info in a log book. Keeping a log book for critical equipment may sound liuke over kill but in a pinch knowing how many hours are on your equipment, the oil, the air cleaner, the spark plug, etc will make doing preventative maintenance easier and make it worth while..

If you just put it away and leave it then the next time you need it cross your fingers it works..

I have a written procedure and everything labeled so that just in case I am not home my Better half can disconnect the grid, hook up the generator and fire it up and run the critical circuits in the house to keep things good until I can get home..

As with anything, if you don't use it, test it, train with it, it is useless..

Just my thoughts, I don't know anything..

TJ

Menards has the GP6500 I listed on sale for $679, normally $779, with an additional 11% rebate. I'm leaning towards picking one up, and I think that is a pretty decent price on the unit. It should give me enough power to run the well pump, sump pump, furnace blower, possibly the oven, and some other small items (lights, tv, outlets, etc) without needing to worry about too much draw.

From what I have read, it includes an hour meter, fuel gauge, and some other decent specs.

 

[Icarry2]

I had a generac 6500 until it was taken from me, it always worked well, could take hard starts and didn't over consume fuel. I actually tested mine and I think I was gettting 26.8 amps at 224 volts from mine. I never pushed it any more than that.

I think your price is good for it, Home Depot had them for $699.

A good cable is going to cost you at least $75 or $100 though and then the connection box for your house will be about $55 plus the wire and breaker.

All in all you will have at least $900 in the whole setup. Oh and don't forget to get a locking cable for the unit and have a means to secure it..

Cables are harder to cut then chains..

Good investment either way..

 

[Car Ramrod]

I had a generac 6500 until it was taken from me, it always worked well, could take hard starts and didn't over consume fuel. I actually tested mine and I think I was getting 26.8 amps at 224 volts from mine. I never pushed it any more than that.

I think your price is good for it, Home Depot had them for $699.

A good cable is going to cost you at least $75 or $100 though and then the connection box for your house will be about $55 plus the wire and breaker.

All in all you will have at least $900 in the whole setup. Oh and don't forget to get a locking cable for the unit and have a means to secure it..

Cables are harder to cut then chains..

Good investment either way..

Yep, I plan on making sure it won't walk off when in use and a good cable is on the list. I have plenty of concrete around that I can bolt it down to.

 

[djl02]

Any solar setup is going to be expensive.

I hear ya.1 good battery can cost 1200 dollars. Has a 15 year guarante though.
I would like to have a couple wind turbines.But then I would need another charge controller( 800 bucks) and anther battery bank. Would produce more than solar in the winter,I believe,where I'm at.

 

[czyhorse]

I have a portable gas powered Cummins Onan generator that I haven't used yet. Bought it a year or two ago. I was always meaning to modify the genset into a dual fuel setup (gasoline and LP gas). Does anyone have any experience doing this?

I saw a link that offers conversion kits here: Generator Conversion Kits to Propane and Natural Gas.

 

[trgore]

I hear ya.1 good battery can cost 1200 dollars. Has a 15 year guarante though.
I would like to have a couple wind turbines.But then I would need another charge controller( 800 bucks) and anther battery bank. Would produce more than solar in the winter,I believe,where I'm at.

batteries are the killer to wind and solar. I am working on doing both.In a SHTF scenario what do you really need to run? A few lights,radio,refrig. Generators are great to have but what good are they when you have no gas to put in them.

 

[Hoosierman]

I've got a Honda EU2000i. Originally Had a Troy Bilt 8500 watt unit, but i traded it for the Honda last year. So far I'm very happy with the trade. The 8500 watt unit was so loud that I could hear it several hundred feet away, and being in town, that's no good, especially in a SHTF scenario. The honda is quiet enough that I can set it at the back of the house, and you can't hear it at all from the front, let alone the neighbors. Stealth will be paramount, not to mention not annoying the neighbors.

Also, the honda will run FIFTEEN HOURS on a gallon of fuel. I can literally store a weeks worth of fuel in 2 5 gallon buckets. The bigger generators use a gallon every couple of hours. Yeah I have to pick and choose what i'm running, but to store the amount of fuel i would need to run a bigger genny for extended periods, you're talking about storing multiple 55 gallon drums of fuel! Add the fact that I can throw it in the back of the jeep for camping, or if I need power out in the woods for whatever reason, and it's just icing on the cake.

 

[JeepHammer]

I am trying to figure out a proper solar / alternative / battery solution. One that I can setup for a reasonable price and expand as needed.

Love having a whole house genny setup on my propaine, but also want an alternative so I can have power without running that 24/7

Second part first,
Propane stores indefnetly, doesn't loose potency and requires no treatment.
Virtually any internal combustion engine will convert to propane at a very reasonable cost.
For the energy output, propane bought off season is comparable with liquid fuels.
With resupply contracts, up to 600 gallon tanks are often provided free to the user.

The first part,
Do a YouTube search for 'Tesla Batteries'.
These are 24 volt batteries with a high 'Charge Density' and super efficient exchange loss ratio.
They will require a Battery Monitor System that isn't a common 'Battery Charger', but keep in mind this is a fairly small cost.

When you learn the vocabulary, then you can visit the manufacturing/education websites...

These batteries charge quickly, have a very high charge density, are MUCH longer lived (compared to Lead/Acid), and are hundreds of pounds lighter than common batteries.
They save THOUSANDS by the time charge/discharge cycles & charge density is considered, and the longevity is second to none with the currently available batteries.

While the tariffs have driven up prices on solar panels, and rebates are a thing of the past, it's still comparable with the energy grid, break even will be 7-10 years.
This is usually the time you will have to reinvest in batteries, but now that is shifting to longer before battery replacement.
Some of the Lithium-Ion & Lithium-Iron batteries can sit on a shelf for 10 years without degrading and have more than 1,000 charging cycles available after that. (That's full charge/discharge cycles, partial cycles damage the battery less so they last much longer)

While the price of 'Super Capacitors' has come down, and makes for a battery-less system, the price point & reliability aren't quite there yet.
When reliability goes up, and price goes down these will give you a choice between batteries & super caps.
I'm running a bank of super caps equal to a Tesla battery right now, far cheaper than conventional batteries, but more expensive and a lot more work than a Tesla battery system.

A solar system, a panel array of about 12 or 16 panels, will power a small, essentials only home during peak sun hours.
Storage is required for non-peak sun hours, such as super caps or batteries.
An inverter from solar/battery to home power requires an inverter, preference is for a pure sine wave inverter so you can run any common 110-120 VAC applicances off it, including computers and other sensitive equipment/appliances.

Square Wave inverters like to kill appliances left & right, while 'Modified Sine Wave' won't kill near as much, but I suggest you pay the 5%-10% premium for PURE SINE WAVE inverters.

Other than the most crude solar panel/battery system will REQUIRE a charge controller of some kind, better versions have a Battery Monitor/Management System (BMS) built in to tell you the charge state and keep batteries at optimum.
Your battery life will be MUCH longer with a BMS built into the charge controller, batteries being a finite resource and a major cost.

There are a dozen or more YouTube videos using Tesla batteries in small systems, and these are a very good starting point.
My system won't do you much good simply because I'm bigger and not mobile without great effort, and when I try to post something simple it always turns into a argument with the AC & 'Theory' guys that haven't actually built an off grid system...
I simply don't want to sidetrack the thread with items/methods that don't apply to a DC/renewable system, and that's what WILL happen.

 

[woowoo2]

Second part first,
.

Eight year old thread.....

 

[Old Bear]

Eight year old thread.....

Still relevant and informative though

 

[JeepHammer]

Link in Hoosier prepping....

 

[JeepHammer]

Eight year old thread.....

Amazing how technologies can change in 8 years...

Price comparison between battery types, including Tesla model 'S' batteries, a real game changer...
The kid is annoying, but he's accurate.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=3VU8Ks8RHSc

A really good solar rig with limited sun using Tesla batteries (done correctly with balancing & proper controllers).
Keep in mind the Tesla batteries have almost ZERO corrosion issues, and other than charge controllers & balancers they are maintiance free!
Some folks are getting 12-15 years out of this battery type.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8VqidoxRB_E

 

[dprimm]

Thought on the champion dual fuel gen you st Sams? The guy who runs several races I do has one and it is QUIET! Not as much as the small Honda but close. Rating is 68db which is about where our dishwasher is listed

big enough for our needs. Even if I have to cycle freezers.

 

[Icarry2]

I have a Champion 3400 Dual Fuel and it is quiet, electric start, 30 AMP RV plug, even comes with a battery tender. When it came in the battery cover was cracked, something poked through the box in shipping and rather than mess with a claim through the delivery company I contacted Champion and they sent me a replacement for free.
I invested in the cover.

 

[CKW]

I have a Champion 3400 Dual Fuel and it is quiet, electric start, 30 AMP RV plug, even comes with a battery tender. When it came in the battery cover was cracked, something poked through the box in shipping and rather than mess with a claim through the delivery company I contacted Champion and they sent me a replacement for free.
I invested in the cover. View attachment 76405

We have ample power but none are quite rated. This might be on the list of to get items.

 

[Hohn]

Use a transfer switch.
Get a generator big enough to handle you needs, but not too big that you are wasting fuel running it and only using a small protion of its out put.
Keep the generator maintained so when it is needed you don't have to work on it.
Keep battery charged.
Keep fresh fuel in it (not an issue if running on LP or natural gas).

Size your gen set so it’s running at 60% capacity most of the time. They can sustain 70% of a prime power rating indefinitely, above that you get into duty cycle/derating.

 

[dprimm]

The one I am asking about is pull start, NOT an inverter, and needs a wheel set added. Purpose is to keep freezers running.

Can power water at farm if needed.

Only 68dB rated.

 

[10-32]

The one I am asking about is pull start, NOT an inverter, and needs a wheel set added. Purpose is to keep freezers running.

Can power water at farm if needed.

Only 68dB rated.

I think I've seen the one you're talking about. It sells for 300 at Sam's? Did you end up buying one?

 

[dprimm]

I think I've seen the one you're talking about. It sells for 300 at Sam's? Did you end up buying one?

Yes I did. A lot louder than I expected as it is only 10dB more than our dishwasher. Then I realized the dishwasher is enclosed in the cabinets.

Ran an it on propane for an hour w a light load (hairdryer). Need to get a wheel kit for it.

Investigating ways to quiet it down. Surprised the muffler only knocks 10dB off it. (Per some YouTube video). As I work through options I will post for feedback.

 

[dprimm]

Been wondering about a way to run the genny more stealthy. I have a vent in the garage wall for a portable AC unit.

Could i I run the genny exhaust out that hole and keep the genny inside the garage? Weld an adaptor to the exhaust and use either solid pipe to send the fumes outside or the flex pipe that is used on cars?

Go w larger pipe (at least 1 inch larger) than the genny exhaust to prevent or reduce back pressure.

Would put CO monitor in garage...
Flexible pipe would be easier to use.

Wiukd you you put an additional muffler outside?