All Things Woodworking

The #1 community for Gun Owners in Indiana

Member Benefits:

  • Fewer Ads!
  • Discuss all aspects of firearm ownership
  • Discuss anti-gun legislation
  • Buy, sell, and trade in the classified section
  • Chat with Local gun shops, ranges, trainers & other businesses
  • Discover free outdoor shooting areas
  • View up to date on firearm-related events
  • Share photos & video with other members
  • ...and so much more!
  • HoughMade

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Oct 24, 2012
    35,768
    149
    Valparaiso
    Oh, and 20 years late to the party, I just got a plate (biscuit) joiner for use on my staircase project. For edge-to edge, it's great and super easy to use.
     

    patience0830

    .22 magician
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 96.6%
    28   1   0
    Nov 3, 2008
    18,007
    149
    Not far from the tree
    Just a straight cutter, nor more than 3/16" deep, so I have some room to readjust and try again.

    I was thinking that putting a weight on the board (e.g. 8# kettlebell) where it's on the table would help. There's probably 12"-14" of table past the bit. It's this one.



    I suppose this is the consequence for letting my ego take over when I hear, "Real woodworkers don't use pocket screws."
    The end goal is a knick-knack shelf with tusk tenons, but I don't have a table saw.

    wanna buy one?
     
    Rating - 100%
    1   0   0
    Feb 11, 2016
    180
    18
    Indiana
    Is there anyway to remove light scratches in polyurethane without sanding or touching up? The old paper bag trick is not abrasive enough, maybe a polish/wax someone can recommend?
     

    HoughMade

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Oct 24, 2012
    35,768
    149
    Valparaiso
    What about wet sanding with some 800 grit sandpaper?

    With oil-based, this can work, assuming you have enough film thickness and you may have to shine it up to whatever sheen it was. #0000 gives a nice satin finish (after sanding). If it is high gloss, treat it like a car finish with polishing compound after that.

    ...but depending upon how deep the scratches are, something like a good furniture wax applied periodically can make scratches virtually disappear. You can even sand a bit right at the scratch and then use furniture wax.
     

    DoggyDaddy

    Grandmaster
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    73   0   1
    Aug 18, 2011
    103,722
    149
    Southside Indy
    With oil-based, this can work, assuming you have enough film thickness and you may have to shine it up to whatever sheen it was. #0000 gives a nice satin finish (after sanding). If it is high gloss, treat it like a car finish with polishing compound after that.

    ...but depending upon how deep the scratches are, something like a good furniture wax applied periodically can make scratches virtually disappear. You can even sand a bit right at the scratch and then use furniture wax.

    Oh, I was just thinking of an alternative to the steel wool if a water-based poly was going to be used (because of the rust issue with steel wool that patience0830 mentioned). What about bronze wool? That wouldn't cause the rust issue.
     

    lovemachine

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 100%
    17   0   0
    Dec 14, 2009
    15,601
    119
    Indiana
    It’s been awhile since I made anything. But I thought I would try making a desk for my wife, she teaches 2nd grade.

    UD31s8M.jpg

    hUWmQ4z.jpg

    uvx9Ujs.jpg

    Update on this. My wife’s school told her she had to get rid of the desk. Because of the ‘rona virus.

    Unfortunately we didn’t have room for it at my house, and relatives didn’t have a use for it. Then I heard that a local volunteer fire department was refinishing their office, and was in need of updated desks. So we donated this to them.

    Sucks all around, but at least some good came out of it.
     

    DoggyDaddy

    Grandmaster
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    73   0   1
    Aug 18, 2011
    103,722
    149
    Southside Indy
    Update on this. My wife’s school told her she had to get rid of the desk. Because of the ‘rona virus.

    Unfortunately we didn’t have room for it at my house, and relatives didn’t have a use for it. Then I heard that a local volunteer fire department was refinishing their office, and was in need of updated desks. So we donated this to them.

    Sucks all around, but at least some good came out of it.

    Why?? Was it showing symptoms? Did it test positive for the antibodies? Did they give it a nasal swab? That's just crazy... Glad you could at least help out the fire department though.
     

    MRockwell

    Just Me
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    5   0   0
    Oct 4, 2010
    2,829
    129
    Noblesfield
    Is there anyway to remove light scratches in polyurethane without sanding or touching up? The old paper bag trick is not abrasive enough, maybe a polish/wax someone can recommend?

    #0000 steel wool.

    If you plan on recoating with an oil based poly, steel wool is ok. Water based poly will cause the leftover fibers to rust, leaving marks.
    Using a synthetic finishing pad will prevent this. I use the white pads from Rockler: https://www.rockler.com/synthetic-finishing-pads-3-pack

    With oil-based, this can work, assuming you have enough film thickness and you may have to shine it up to whatever sheen it was. #0000 gives a nice satin finish (after sanding). If it is high gloss, treat it like a car finish with polishing compound after that.

    ...but depending upon how deep the scratches are, something like a good furniture wax applied periodically can make scratches virtually disappear. You can even sand a bit right at the scratch and then use furniture wax.
    Agree on using polishing compound to achieve a higher sheen. And don't just use just any furniture wax. I recommend Minwax paste wax: https://smile.amazon.com/Minwax-785...ywords=minwax+paste+wax&qid=1596751716&sr=8-1
    I have even used white synthetic finishing pads to apply the wax. The key is not going too gung-ho and polishing the finish too much.

    I haven't dealt with polyurethane in forever, everything out of my shop gets sprayed with lacquer. One thing you could try is wiping poly: https://smile.amazon.com/Watco-6814...ords=minwax+wiping+poly&qid=1596752186&sr=8-1
    Minwax also makes a wipe-on poly, but I am not a fan of their finishes. I prefer Watco or Varathane(personal/professional preference).
     

    freekforge

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    12   0   0
    Jul 20, 2012
    2,761
    113
    marion
    I make police batons on the wood lathe as gifts for friends also sold a couple that went up to chiraq as retirement gifts. Been putting a ca finish on them and then using a clay bar to really get a shine.
     

    DoggyDaddy

    Grandmaster
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    73   0   1
    Aug 18, 2011
    103,722
    149
    Southside Indy
    Honestly, it isn't all that hard. Anyone can do it. This is just a rendering, and I have a lot of them that I sell to CNC guys, and some, I cut the designs for clients as a completed project. There's also the gifts for friends and family.

    Here's a couple others....

    3WNu6SI.jpg


    7qLGMDr.jpg



    I also do flatwork and furniture.
    Here's a box.

    vvzesLk.jpg
    So is that all done on a CNC milling machine or laser cut or?
     

    DoggyDaddy

    Grandmaster
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    73   0   1
    Aug 18, 2011
    103,722
    149
    Southside Indy
    The first three require a three axis cnc, since they are 3D. The box is simple 2D, and it was engraved on the cnc, then traditional techniques were used to build the box.
    I don't have a laser, so everything I cut, is on either a mill or spindle (router).
    There are quite a few cars and motorcycles around with parts I've made or engraved.
    Well again, kudos to you and the other talented woodworkers here on :ingo:! :bowdown:
     
    Top Bottom