Just a straight cutter, nor more than 3/16" deep, so I have some room to readjust and try again.
I was thinking that putting a weight on the board (e.g. 8# kettlebell) where it's on the table would help. There's probably 12"-14" of table past the bit. It's this one.
I suppose this is the consequence for letting my ego take over when I hear, "Real woodworkers don't use pocket screws."
The end goal is a knick-knack shelf with tusk tenons, but I don't have a table saw.
wanna buy one?
Is there anyway to remove light scratches in polyurethane without sanding or touching up? The old paper bag trick is not abrasive enough, maybe a polish/wax someone can recommend?
#0000 steel wool.
If you plan on recoating with an oil based poly, steel wool is ok. Water based poly will cause the leftover fibers to rust, leaving marks.
What about wet sanding with some 800 grit sandpaper?
With oil-based, this can work, assuming you have enough film thickness and you may have to shine it up to whatever sheen it was. #0000 gives a nice satin finish (after sanding). If it is high gloss, treat it like a car finish with polishing compound after that.
...but depending upon how deep the scratches are, something like a good furniture wax applied periodically can make scratches virtually disappear. You can even sand a bit right at the scratch and then use furniture wax.
Nice work!
Kreg jig?
It’s been awhile since I made anything. But I thought I would try making a desk for my wife, she teaches 2nd grade.
Update on this. My wife’s school told her she had to get rid of the desk. Because of the ‘rona virus.
Unfortunately we didn’t have room for it at my house, and relatives didn’t have a use for it. Then I heard that a local volunteer fire department was refinishing their office, and was in need of updated desks. So we donated this to them.
Sucks all around, but at least some good came out of it.
Is there anyway to remove light scratches in polyurethane without sanding or touching up? The old paper bag trick is not abrasive enough, maybe a polish/wax someone can recommend?
#0000 steel wool.
Using a synthetic finishing pad will prevent this. I use the white pads from Rockler: https://www.rockler.com/synthetic-finishing-pads-3-packIf you plan on recoating with an oil based poly, steel wool is ok. Water based poly will cause the leftover fibers to rust, leaving marks.
Agree on using polishing compound to achieve a higher sheen. And don't just use just any furniture wax. I recommend Minwax paste wax: https://smile.amazon.com/Minwax-785...ywords=minwax+paste+wax&qid=1596751716&sr=8-1With oil-based, this can work, assuming you have enough film thickness and you may have to shine it up to whatever sheen it was. #0000 gives a nice satin finish (after sanding). If it is high gloss, treat it like a car finish with polishing compound after that.
...but depending upon how deep the scratches are, something like a good furniture wax applied periodically can make scratches virtually disappear. You can even sand a bit right at the scratch and then use furniture wax.
Thanks. Yep.
So is that all done on a CNC milling machine or laser cut or?Honestly, it isn't all that hard. Anyone can do it. This is just a rendering, and I have a lot of them that I sell to CNC guys, and some, I cut the designs for clients as a completed project. There's also the gifts for friends and family.
Here's a couple others....
I also do flatwork and furniture.
Here's a box.
Well again, kudos to you and the other talented woodworkers here on !The first three require a three axis cnc, since they are 3D. The box is simple 2D, and it was engraved on the cnc, then traditional techniques were used to build the box.
I don't have a laser, so everything I cut, is on either a mill or spindle (router).
There are quite a few cars and motorcycles around with parts I've made or engraved.
Stay tuned for the final result.