S12 "tuner" in Southern in?

[Johnny C]

Is there anyone in the Bedford / Bloomington area that can professionally rework an S12 for me?

I am usually pretty good with mechanical things, but I havent had much luck with the guns I have worked on.



Johnny C

 

[oldbikelvr]

You might talk to Ryan at Bloomfield Arms and Ammo.

 

[Tombs]

I have a ton of hours put into reworking mine from the ground up.

Shoot me a PM with your issues, and I can tell you in plain english what needs done. I would offer to help, but for legal reasons until I'm with a shop I'm kinda shying away from doing so.

If you're not shy with a dremel tool, and understand how the gun functions and what's necessary for it to function, everything that needs done will be a breeze for you.

*EDIT* how do i polish the bolt? - forum.Saiga-12.com
There's a link to the thread detailing everything you could possibly want to know and a lot more.

For most people just this will solve their issues. It'll make inserting a magazine on a closed bolt MUCH easier, and help stop shell deformation over time leaving a loaded mag in it.

Next, take your hammer, and smooth/polish it to a mirror finish.

Adjust your trigger hook carefully, polishing it until it feels good to you. It can go unbelievably light, so it's preference. I had mine down to where just resting my finger on it would fire it, but played with the angles to get it a little heavier after it became a concern.

You can also knock the pin out for the extractor and clip a coil off, if you want it to lock up faster without that hesitant drag.

If your issues are gas system related, again, no need to be nervous about jumping into it, go look up some write ups on the saiga12 forums. It's a very easy job.

As a side note, sure you CAN get it to run walmart bulk birdshot but it wasn't designed for it. You don't shoot 40S&W in your 10mm and expect it to function 100% so you shouldn't expect the same from a saiga 12. If you do make it run the lowest powered stuff out there, other modifications will need to be done in the event you run something hotter in the gun, to keep it from beating its self to death.

 

[Deadly Z Driver]

Picture fail...

 

[Johnny C]

Yeah Tombs, the pics don't work.

Could you post links instead?

Thanks

Johnny C

 

[Tombs]

Alright, I edited it for a link, didn't realize the images didn't work till I cleared cache.

 

[Johnny C]

I polished up the bolt, but it aint quite "that" shiney
Also had the "carrier" bead blasted
Looks good, but I have probed around in the front and only seems to be 1 port showing.
The thought of working the gas block off makes me cringe though.

Johnny C

 

[Tombs]

I polished up the bolt, but it aint quite "that" shiney
Also had the "carrier" bead blasted
Looks good, but I have probed around in the front and only seems to be 1 port showing.
The thought of working the gas block off makes me cringe though.

Johnny C

Just do a little reading up on it and go at it.

If you do some how manage to mess up bashing something with a hammer, you can always just tap it back into place and have it done some where else. Pretty sure any gunsmith could do it if you clearly explained what you wanted done. (A little cold bluing is always nice to have on hand when you slip up.)

As a side note it sounds like you have a vodka special, there's most likely 3 ports there but the gas block needs the hole in it sectioned out because it's covering them.

If you have a set of dental picks that's the best way to feel around in there for em.

Buy a couple brass punches, a plastic hammer, and a bunch of penetrating oil, and wrap the barrel in front of the gas block with some tape to keep it from getting scratched. It's really not much different than getting the block off an AR15. If the gas block hole needs opened up, just make a D shaped cut with the flat edge allowing the covered holes to be used.