ATF has been used for a longtime. I think Armalite even recommended it as the lube they wanted used. It is also an excellent carbon cleaner and corrosion protection.Some years back I had some work done by Neil Keller of Kustom Ballistics before he retired. He had his own proprietary lube called "Kellube." He came from a mechanical engineering/racing/machinist background and Pistolsmith of the Year and even built a 1911 for "Dubya." I still have some. I think its synthetic automatic transmission fluid. It's red.
Brake and parts cleaner takes it off pretty quick but lots of time getting it out of the blind holes in the sideplate and blind holes in the small parts.
I've found very few gun owners are gun enthusiast and they don't know and sometimes don't care about things that are important like maintenance or even being a little proficient with actually using the gun and being able to shoot and manipulate it.It’s 20-frickin’-23, and we STILL have people doing this crap??
Personally, I would only use it on a stripped frame without any wood/plastic attached. But Brake parts cleaner seems fairly non-reactive to most plastics vs. something like carb cleaner. Carb cleaner will definately eat most polymers.
I don't use it on plastics. Most of the stuff I work on is all steel.
I don't think it would hurt the polymer frames on the new guns but try on a small spot to make sure before hosing it down. IMO
You can use WD40 to remove varnished WD. Spray it down, use a toothbrush, wipe clean.
Negative, Ghost Rider.
Weird, I could have sworn it had fish oil in it because it was such an odd thing. Maybe that was an ingredient in WD1-39?
(I once watched a 15 minute documentary on it and its history.)Fish oil in it has been an urban myth for ages and ages.Weird, I could have sworn it had fish oil in it because it was such an odd thing. Maybe that was an ingredient in WD1-39?
If you use none chlorinated it doesn't hurt it.
