Pre model smith & Wesson k-22

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  • mcapo

    aka Bandit
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    East of Hoosier45 - West of T-dogg
    I’ll keep you posted if I get anything meaningful.

    I think sagamore-one is in the right ballpark. And there is no reason he’s not hit the nail on the head. I would like to know how he figured it out so I won’t look so stupid going forward.
    A K prefix with your serial number would place it in 1948.

    d0e8826ed6b1793a23d27271cbda5c56.jpg
     

    planedriver

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    I would guess because the 4 line change was in 48 combined with the lower serial number.

    That's why I say late 48- early 49

    The lack of a K prefix is still interesting as that would be a pre war model, but it wouldn't have a 4 line.
    Exactly! I wonder what the chances of them forgetting the k on the cylinder and frame are? And what the hell is the “w”?
     

    Jaybird1980

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    Exactly! I wonder what the chances of them forgetting the k on the cylinder and frame are? And what the hell is the “w”?
    I don't think they always put the prefix on the cylinder. I have seen it sometimes for some reason though. The frame should have had it though, but there is always the oddballs that get out I guess.

    The W I have no idea.
     

    Sagamore - One

    Marksman
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    On this particular gun there should also be a serial number stamped on the flat on the under side of the barrel where the ejector rod goes. You may have to look and look again to see the tiny K on the barrel and cylinder as the k is not up close to the numbers and may be some distance away.. Same on bottom of grip frame. The other numbers are build numbers and should be on the frame, yoke, side plate, and frame. Letters often designate factory repair.
    The 3 line 4 line stuff is kinda irrelevant as the factory used from stockpiles of parts.
     

    planedriver

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    On this particular gun there should also be a serial number stamped on the flat on the under side of the barrel where the ejector rod goes. You may have to look and look again to see the tiny K on the barrel and cylinder as the k is not up close to the numbers and may be some distance away.. Same on bottom of grip frame. The other numbers are build numbers and should be on the frame, yoke, side plate, and frame. Letters often designate factory repair.
    The 3 line 4 line stuff is kinda irrelevant as the factory used from stockpiles of parts.
    I never thought to check under the ejector rod! Behold a very faint K! The numbers all match but still no k anywhere else. Terrific! We got it. Much thanks to you all.
     

    planedriver

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    [/ISPOILER]On the cylinder look about half an inch left of serial number. Same on frame bottom and barrel. Side plate is marked on the underside of plate. (you need to remove plate to see numbers)
    The cylinder definitely has no k but the numbers match. I guess I’ll get around to taking the plate off later out of curiosity.

    I hate to take those side plates off. You need such a big screwdriver to pry them out. :popcorn:
     

    Jaybird1980

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    The cylinder definitely has no k but the numbers match. I guess I’ll get around to taking the plate off later out of curiosity.

    I hate to take those side plates off. You need such a big screwdriver to pry them out. :popcorn:
    Pro tip, It's easier if you just hit the opposite side with a hammer
     

    Sagamore - One

    Marksman
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    You are using the WRONG end of the screwdriver! Use the handle to tap the frame adjacent to the plate. The vibrations will let the plate fall off. DO NOT PRY!
    Hard to tell what the w stands for.
     

    planedriver

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    Pro tip, It's easier if you just hit the opposite side with a hammer
    You are using the WRONG end of the screwdriver! Use the handle to tap the frame adjacent to the plate. The vibrations will let the plate fall off. DO NOT PRY!
    Hard to tell what the w stands for.
    I didn’t think it would take you guys long to jump on the screwdriver thing.. lol
     
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