New to Reloading: Jumped in the Deep End with a Dillon 1050

[jglevyjr]

I updated the 9mm Titegroup image to show the source of information:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B480ew1YmBonVFd4M0NFWGNGTE0/view?usp=sharing



There are charts giving burn rates of different kinds of powder usually sorted by the fastest burning powder down to the slowest. I use Titegroup, a relatively fast burning powder, for my short barrel pistol (S&P 9mm Shield) and a longer burning powder for HK P30 with a longer barrel (often use Longshot). If I use my target load with Titegroup in my HK I get stovepipes. I think there just isn't enough uummph with Titegroup to push the longer action all the way back on the HK. I'd rather use a longer burning powder and make use of the long bullet travel through the barrel, keeping pressure pushing that slide back for a longer time duration, rather than jump up the faster burning Titegroup and building up more pressure. But this is an example of loading for a specific firearm. Commercial ammo just has to hit a medium that will work on everything as much as possible. My Titegroup loads for the S&P Shield goes bang every single time, no stovepipes, no excessive power burn (clean gun). Most reloading manuals give good information on inspecting fired brass for indications of excessive pressure.

Example powder burn rate chart: https://www.hodgdon.com/PDF/Burn Rates - 2014-2015.pdf

 

[craigkim]

Thanks to Jackson for starting this thread, as it has helped me too and thanks jglevy for posting this info! This is very helpful. I haven't reloaded any 9mm yet, but I have my 650 conversion kit on its way. I bought titegroup (8lbs) because that is all I could find, but I am definitely seeing the limitations as I compare my manuals. If you want to push a bullet faster out of 45 with Titegroup, it's gotta also be a light one it seems. I think I am expecting about 1050 FPS with my 185 grain Sierra FPJs. That's a negative maybe, but I believe my Sierra manual mentions Titegroup twice as the "accuracy load" for various Sierra bullets. I feel like my shooting improves with my Titegroup handloads compared to factory.

I started researching what slower burning powders to keep my eye out for that were good for both 45 AND 9, BUT I also am interested in powders that will measure reliably through our DIllons. Titegroup measures VERY well and I get super consistent powder charges. I was looking at HP-38, WIN 231, Unique, Power Pistol. Unsure if any or all of those fit, but it would be nice to know so I can carry a mental list and have some flexibility, since beggars can't be choosers.

I am intrigued and surprised about your P30 having problems with titegroup loads. So, was that with the 4.1 loads? I didn't expect ANY problems out of my Hks. I sold my P30 but still have the VP9 and the HK 45 and then the very similar PPQ. Hopefully I don't run into similar issues. How would loading 147 grain alter that? Longer pressure curve right???

 

[rvb]

agree w/ the advice for a sturdy working surface.
use One Shot vs Dillon lube for pistol (vice versa for rifle).

don't worry about how precise your digital powder measure is. 5 or 10 round averages will get a more precise idea of your average throw (eg 10 throws will easily tell you if your 4.3 reading is really 4.30 or 4.39, I have a thread on that somewhere). Let the chrono tell you consistency. a variation of +/- 0.1 gr may not mean squat and you'll be tilting at windmills. 10 rounds over the chrono w/ std dev <15 will be way more accurate than factory ammo all day. any larger variation is probably more likely oal issue, mixed brass, etc.

your biggest time savings isn't from having the high end machine (of course it helps some), but having a buddy system helping to keep it fed. filling primer tubes, sorting/cleaning brass, quality checks, etc are the biggest time hogs.

way to jump "all in."

-rvb

 

[Jackson]

agree w/ the advice for a sturdy working surface.
use One Shot vs Dillon lube for pistol (vice versa for rifle).

don't worry about how precise your digital powder measure is. 5 or 10 round averages will get a more precise idea of your average throw (eg 10 throws will easily tell you if your 4.3 reading is really 4.30 or 4.39, I have a thread on that somewhere). Let the chrono tell you consistency. a variation of +/- 0.1 gr may not mean squat and you'll be tilting at windmills. 10 rounds over the chrono w/ std dev <15 will be way more accurate than factory ammo all day. any larger variation is probably more likely oal issue, mixed brass, etc.

your biggest time savings isn't from having the high end machine (of course it helps some), but having a buddy system helping to keep it fed. filling primer tubes, sorting/cleaning brass, quality checks, etc are the biggest time hogs.

way to jump "all in."

-rvb

Thanks for the feedback. We agree on the buddy system and that was part of the plan. Its way faster with a buddy.

As far as the variation, I wasn't too concerned about that either as long as we're in the expected range. Its when it starts to trend or falls outside two or three standard deviations from the mean that we look at readjusting.

I will look in to the One Shot lube. What's the difference in it for pistol?

What were your thoughts on the brass dust? Non issue? Lube issue? Case mouth too wide? Sizing issue?

 

[rvb]

I will look in to the One Shot lube. What's the difference in it for pistol?

less messy. no need to clean it off, doesn't gum up or make everything it touches sticky (eg your bins, etc). dirt/debris less likely to stick to it, etc.
but it's not as slick and you have to use a lot to not stick rifle brass, so I use Dillon for that. but I then I have to tumble the brass after sizing it, clean out bins more often, etc.

What were your thoughts on the brass dust? Non issue? Lube issue? Case mouth too wide? Sizing issue?

[/quote]

hard to say w/o seeing in person. and I have no experience on a 1050. Just ~150k rounds on a 550...
Could be not belling enough or too much (I like 0.015-0.018 over a sized case on my 550).
Could be your dies not aligned w/ the shell plate enough (I always tighten dies w/ a round in each station to help center over the shellplate).
could be primer punch not aligned
could be burr on shellplate or too much slop in shellplate

I can't go that many rounds w/o cleaning my 550 (or the primer bar starts to stick), but I've never seen much brass shavings...
can you tell where it's coming from by inspecting the brass? eg case mouth, extractor rim, primer pocket, etc? Maybe coat a piece of brass w/ sharpie and see if there's anywhere that's gouging/scraping (it'll obviously rub everywhere...)

on my 550 most brass debris I see is from the primer pocket. either a tight pocket, didn't align right, or crimp not removed...


-rvb

 

[Jackson]

I will have to investigate. To be honest, we hadn't tried to figure it out. We jUST cranked out a bunch of ammo and took it to the range.

When I get some spare time I intend to run some brass through so I can look at some of the depriming suggestions mentioned earlier. I will examine the brass at each station as I do that. I also like the sharpie idea. Thanks also for the case bell measurements. That gives me something to check against.