I can't say 100% that it is hollow, but I have a full basement with block walls. I'm just guessing they are and going with worse case scenario.
Is it possible to make a basement wall stand up under the pressure if you don't fill the blocks?
I can't say 100% that it is hollow, but I have a full basement with block walls. I'm just guessing they are and going with worse case scenario.
I did it wrong but the deck is still standing (and level) over 18 years later.
Went to Menards with a rough scetch and they built it on their CAD program then delivered the lumber.
It's passed 2 insurance inspections since then.
Guess I should be arrested.
In my lay-research, that document is pretty darned conservative. I'm thinking, they prescribe that so that if you're building onto a house where the surrounding ground is not completely settled, the deck won't shift as it does settle. I say that because, if you'll notice, it says you only have to do that if the posts will be within 5ft of the foundation. I guess they're assuming the ground would be undisturbed at that location, so as long as you're going below the frost line, your'e probably good to go.
Is it possible to make a basement wall stand up under the pressure if you don't fill the blocks?
I have read that you can put a ledger on the inside of the wall and have rods go through the blocks and kind of sandwich the blocks in between the ledger boards. And I also read about specialty adhesive mounted bolts that you put into the concrete blocks.
I probably going to email the building department and ask about how I should go about doing this as per the code they follow. I will take a picture of the deck area. Unfortunately I can't go into any i beams or floor boards.
I have read that you can put a ledger on the inside of the wall and have rods go through the blocks and kind of sandwich the blocks in between the ledger boards. And I also read about specialty adhesive mounted bolts that you put into the concrete blocks.
I probably going to email the building department and ask about how I should go about doing this as per the code they follow. I will take a picture of the deck area. Unfortunately I can't go into any i beams or floor boards.
Yeah, Ramset has a product that is called UltraFix. You could use that. I personally would plan on drilling into the mortar joints and not the block. That is how we do it when needed. Put your ledger in position and drill some small like 3/16" holes on each end and secure with a Tapcon to hold the ledger while you drill the other holes. Then while the tapcon's are holding board in position go down the ledger and drill 3/16" holes 12" to 18" apart thru the ledger and into the mortar joints....then remove the tapcons and take ledger down....your holes should now be marked on wall. Drill them out to the size of your anchor and install anchors in wall. Then drill out 3/16" ledger holes so your lag bolts will fit thru. Now put a couple tubes of liquid nails on ledger, put in position and tighten all lag bolts into anchors. You will then have a secured ledger to put joist hangers on.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Good luck with your project.
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I didn't really think about going through the mortar. I would drill holes in the mortar and use Sleeve anchors in that is that correct? Do they make Hot Dipped galvanized sleeve anchors? I found stainless steel but was wondering if the galvanized would be cheaper.
Also, What is the general rule for placing support posts? I was thinking of using 4x4s on each free standing corner (2) then having 4 foot spaces between them along the edge. I figure since its 9 feet wide i need no support posts closer than the edge.
You are correct. Expansion or epoxy anchor and hot dipped should be ok. They need to be 1/2" minimum. I think you can use galvanized bolts...but double check that they are approved for use with treated lumber, some metals don't agree with the chemical they treat lumber with now days...and it will eat the metal away. Make sure your lag bolt has a flat washer on it.
On posts my general rule of thumb is a 4x4 every 8 feet....but I have stretched it to 9' before. I just use 8 foot so my rails are easier to install. I usually allow my posts to extend up through the deck so they support my spindles, but some people cut them off under deck and then use bolt on posts. With your deck being 25' long you could run your posts evenly spaced at about 8' 4". Is your ledger board only going to be 9'? If so that means your joists probably won't even mount to the ledger since you would want to use 9' joists.
Hope this helps you some.
I usually allow my posts to extend up through the deck so they support my spindles, but some people cut them off under deck and then use bolt on posts.
My Ledger would be 25 feet.
obviously the red line is the ledger board placement.
I was talking to a co worker. He built a deck last summer and said his posts are 4 feet apart, so thats what I was going to plan. But if I could go our to every 5 feet that would let me use 2 less posts.
My Ledger would be 25 feet.
obviously the red line is the ledger board placement.
I was talking to a co worker. He built a deck last summer and said his posts are 4 feet apart, so thats what I was going to plan. But if I could go our to every 5 feet that would let me use 2 less posts.
I gave that doc to the wife and she is not talking to me now. It says no 4x4 post, only 6x6. Were we were going to attach the ledger is the start of the brick veneer about a foot above the solid masonry wall. We may be looking to free float it, but that means deeper footing. I think her footings are undersized too.