Are Any of You Annealing Your Rifle Brass?

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  • russc2542

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    Gotta see that! Induction annealing has peaked my interest. Always thought of making one but never pulled the trigger

    Should update that, I changed some parts. Also need to re-print a lot of it now that I have a resin printer, sooo much smoother and prettier for stuff like this it'll be 100x better.
     

    ZebLocke

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    I have a few hundred rounds of GI 30-06 brass set aside specifically for gallery loads. I have used a method similar as Leo to anneal the case neck. I'm working on 100 rounds at a time and although there will be a split mouth/neck from time to time i would say 90% of these cases have been neck sized and fired dozens of times. YMMV

    Sent from my SM-A426U using Tapatalk
     
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    Chance

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    Cordless drill, deep well socket, torch. Tested with the Templac and I set my rotation speed, count to 6 sec and drop into water. I do this for my 300AAC brass converted from .223
     

    Firehawk

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    For forming wildcat rounds like 7mm TCU or .357 herret, annealing is almost mandatory.

    My rig was simple and cheap. I sat on a short stool with a bucket of water between my knees. Set a propane torch on the floor with the flame pointing over the bucket, away from me. I got one of those 4 claw pickup tools for a whole $3. Sitting in a dim garage, put the base of the case in the pickup tool, slowly spin it in the flame for about 15 seconds and drop it in the bucket. It does not need to be glowing cherry red for our use. repeat. This method helped me go from splitting about 50% to maybe 5%

    It helps if you have a radio playing something you like.
    Do you anneal before or after fire forming the case? I have 100 Lapua cases (260 rem) that will get fire formed to 260 ai at some point.
     

    Leo

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    Do you anneal before or after fire forming the case? I have 100 Lapua cases (260 rem) that will get fire formed to 260 ai at some point.
    I annealed before running it through the dies. Fire forming was after that. It has been a while since I have seen new Lapua cases, but I think they already had the neck discoloration indicating annealing from the factory.
     

    Firehawk

    a.k.a. Rainmaker, Rainhawk, Firemaker or whatever
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    I annealed before running it through the dies. Fire forming was after that. It has been a while since I have seen new Lapua cases, but I think they already had the neck discoloration indicating annealing from the factory.
    Yes my lot of new Lapua cases have discolored shoulders and necks and I believe were advertised as factory annealed. Just checking if they needed annealed again after fire forming. This is a new aspect of reloading to me. Thanks.
     
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    Beowulf

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    Cordless drill, deep well socket, torch. Tested with the Templac and I set my rotation speed, count to 6 sec and drop into water. I do this for my 300AAC brass converted from .223

    I use pretty much this approach when I'm making .577 Snider and 450/577 Martini brass from 24ga brass shotgun shells.

    I chop them to length and clean up the case mouth, then set up my drill with a socket that the shells fit in. I then run it slowly through a propane torch until it starts to glow and then drop them into a bucket of water. Seems to do the trick pretty well.
     

    Jlong51454

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    I find an appropriately sized deep well socket, one that the case fits in and just below the shoulder is exposed, and chuck it up in my cordless drill. Propane torch in one hand and the drill in the other. I watch the heat line move down to just below the shoulder, approximately 5 seconds.
     
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