If you decide you like it, get it tuned or tune it your self on the AV gas. It makes a difference to tune it to the gas you are going to use what ever that is.Picked some of this up today....going to give it a go.
The 2cycle oil you mix has stabilizer in it.Last week, I bought 5 gallons of E-free gas for $4.69/gal in Monrovia. I felt pretty good about myself.
I put Stabil in any gas I store, with or without ethanol. The posts in this thread suggest that is not necessary for the E0 fuel. We haven't been firewooding as much this year as last, and I don't know that I will get through the 5 gallons in the next year or so.
If you decide you like it, get it tuned or tune it your self on the AV gas. It makes a difference to tune it to the gas you are going to use what ever that is.
I will have to argue as to timing changes with Octane ratings change. Porting a 2 cycle moves the power band up/down in the engines RPM range. It also has an effect on compression past the static numbers we get just cycling the reciprocal parts to get static reading. Porting a 4 cycle has no effect here. Only effects flow volume of a giveset of measurements.All gases do flow through orifices the same. A carb doesn't flow different octane fuel differently. If the A/F mixture is set correctly for 87 fuel it will be set no matter what octane gas you put in the tank.
Yes if you modified the engines compression you could need a higher octane. Timing and Porting do not alter the octane needs.
Simple.
If you have a higher compression engine that needs higher octane fuel, then running lower octane fuel can lead to pre detonation. Octane is the resistance to the fuel igniting from compression, that is it.
Again this can be argued.AV gas isn't a performance upgrade.
Don't ever put stabilizer in ANY fuel. My dad has put it 4 engines. They are the only 4 engines he's ever had to replace. I've put it in 3 engines. They are the only 3 engines I've ever had to replace. Run non ethanol fuel, at least towards the end of your season, and you'll be fine.Should I store it with no gas? Fuel stabilizer?
How many bars and chains are we talking about here? I've been running the same bar on my 036 since 2010 and it's cut around 50 cord, mostly hickory and oak with a little locust mixed in. I'm probably on my 6th or 7th chain.Only reason I ever need a saw is to cut up a fallen tree or branch into small enough pieces for me to toss it in my trailer and haul to the burn pile. Bought an MS180 back around 2008, had to replace the carb in its first year and always ran 100LL with Woodland Pro 2 cycle oil after that with no issue.
Opening up the exhaust louvers a little with a screwdriver really helped the saw run better. Used the saw nearly every week for 5 years. Never had any other issue with it and wore out a pile of chains, a couple bars and a sprocket in the time I used it. Moved to an apartment for a while and needed the space and the money more than the saw and sold it.
Replaced it with a Husqvarna 435 when I bought a house. After using it quite a bit I think the MS180 maybe (after my modifications) cut a little faster, but the Husqvarna is the nicer saw as far as being a little better built, easier starting and handling for the money.
I've had one for about 3 months now and I've got around 10 gal of mix through it, mostly with a 42" bar running full skip chain. I'd highly recommend the saw so long as you are capable of replacing your own oil pump. It is significantly heavier than the 066/MS660, so I wouldn't recommend it for every day use unless it's on a chainsaw mill. Other than that, it's a strong runner. On mine, I had to replace the oil pump, and the screws that hold the bucking spikes on. I also had the Eclip pop off the end of the drive shaft when I ran it the first time which caused some issues. The Farmertec Eclips are junk. They are not tempered correctly so they bend rather than flex when taking on/off to change rims. They need to be replaced immediately.Timing is the only adjustment you could make if you are wanting to utilize the higher octane rating. Imo it’s not worth it, it’s a pain to do for not much gain. I run VP 40:1 premix and i noticed more gain from a barkbox and retune than the timing advance.
This G660 is my Guinea pig, i cranked it up to 13,500 rpm and it cuts like mad with a 28” bar and 8 pin sprocket. Is been dang solid for a chinese clone.
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Again this can be argued.
How many bars and chains are we talking about here? I've been running the same bar on my 036 since 2010 and it's cut around 50 cord, mostly hickory and oak with a little locust mixed in. I'm probably on my 6th or 7th chain.
Back in the day (I say this a lot lately) 100LL used to have more lead in it than the fuel it replaced. It used to foul up the plugs on a Lycoming 150. I learned to burn off the plugs during run up by leaning out the mixture and running the engine at high rpm's after getting an unsatisfactory mag check. Although there is a good chance that 100LL has been reformulated since then.100LL is great fuel. I watched as a Bonanza that had set in a hanger for 8 years brought out, tires aired up, bird nests cleaned out, new battery. They turned the key and it fired up on 8 year old gas.
Back in the day (I say this a lot lately) 100LL used to have more lead in it than the fuel it replaced. It used to foul up the plugs on a Lycoming 150. I learned to burn off the plugs during run up by leaning out the mixture and running the engine at high rpm's after getting an unsatisfactory mag check. Although there is a good chance that 100LL has been reformulated since then.
I never said it was. I never claimed to be a chain saw expert by any means and I NEVER wanted to know ANYTHING about a chainsaw. I still DON'T but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.AV gas isn't a performance upgrade.
Ok this has gotten way of in the weeds for something so simple.I will have to argue as to timing changes with Octane ratings change. Porting a 2 cycle moves the power band up/down in the engines RPM range. It also has an effect on compression past the static numbers we get just cycling the reciprocal parts to get static reading. Porting a 4 cycle has no effect here. Only effects flow volume of a giveset of measurements.
There are a slew of formulas and opinions on this floating around out there. Not casting shadows on yours but this is a deep rabbit hole and fife for serious bench racing. Bring a white board
No. But to get full advantage from it those mods would gain power over the 85/87 alcohol crap.Ok this has gotten way of in the weeds for something so simple.
BigRed simply changed the fuel in his tank from old pump gas to AV. Does he require timing or porting to do so?
Oh man if you want to get beer and pizza and talk engines I'm in.No. But to get full advantage from it those mods would gain power over the 85/87 alcohol crap.
Know I was not disparaging your comments or opinions. Having spent a lot of time around engine Dyno’s and the learned men that ran them I have seen how this will interact with that and how that will effect this.
The 2 cycle is an animal into itself but the end results are pretty close.
No intention to start a fight as should be seen with the bench racing white board giggles.
You can run the Av with maybe just adjusted air/fuel screws to optimize.
If you feed a regular Diet of it yes you can see power gains in simple air flow mods and timing.
Unless you are racing the saw (yes it’s a thing) intake port mods aren’t needed.
The thing is with increased octane the ability to advance timing and do some jetting become easier to do and the increased power becomes very obvious.
I forgot to put “Beer” on my bench racing list. And pizza
And there you go.Oh man if you want to get beer and pizza and talk engines I'm in.