What knife do you prefer for field dressing a deer?

[rhino]

Field and Stream, Outdoor Life, Fur Fish and Game...


...now days, YouTube knows everything about everything.

It would be next to impossible to schedule since you have to do it soon after you drop the beast, but if I'm ever nearby when you're field dressing one, I'd like to help and learn.

 

[oldpink]

My dad and brother taught me with my first ever.
I've done the succeeding three by myself.
However, I highly recommend the Butt-Out tool for those of you who have yet to employ that dandy little gadget.

 

[Woobie]

How many of you guys learned to field dress deer from your dad or someone else? How many taught yourself?

The biggest thing I've ever done or helped field dress and skin was a squirrel. Sooner or later I need to learn how to do on a bigger critter!

I've done a lot more squirrels than other stuff, but I kind of prefer larger animals. You can use their weight against them. I always feel like I could use a third hand on squirrels just to keep the dumb things from moving around.

 

[jagee]

I've done a lot more squirrels than other stuff, but I kind of prefer larger animals. You can use their weight against them. I always feel like I could use a third hand on squirrels just to keep the dumb things from moving around.

 

[teddy12b]

My dad and brother taught me with my first ever.
I've done the succeeding three by myself.
However, I highly recommend the Butt-Out tool for those of you who have yet to employ that dandy little gadget.

I've seen that tool on the shelves of the store. I've never bought one just because I wouldn't be able to stop making fun of myself. I don't doubt that it's a fine tool, but do I want to spend money on something that going where that's going to go? If I did buy one, I just don't see myself happily cleaning it off to use again the following year. I'm just too much of a smart alec juvenile to buy one. I'll keep doing it the old fashioned way.

 

[Woobie]

Reminds me of a scene from "Oscar"

 

[oldpink]

I've done a lot more squirrels than other stuff, but I kind of prefer larger animals. You can use their weight against them. I always feel like I could use a third hand on squirrels just to keep the dumb things from moving around.

I have to agree there.
It doesn't help that squirrels have a surprisingly tough hide that sticks to the flesh as would Superglue.

 

[mom45]

Hubby has always field dressed them since before we met. I learned to butcher as a kid when we did our rabbits and goats to put food on the table. Size of the critter really isn't important as the concept is the same for all of them. We do it all here from field to table.

 

[Woobie]

I have to agree there.
It doesn't help that squirrels have a surprisingly tough hide that sticks to the flesh as would Superglue.

Man, you're not kidding. I think foxes are worse than greys.

On a related note, I shot a squirrel by Brookville reservoir today. It was a tough shot, but I felt really bad about wounding him by breaking his rear leg at the bottom joint. Had to finish him off. Then I remembered he was scratching his ear when I shot him. Somehow I managed to hit the rapidly moving leg while it was next to his head!

 

[bwframe]

It would be next to impossible to schedule since you have to do it soon after you drop the beast, but if I'm ever nearby when you're field dressing one, I'd like to help and learn.

The faster one can go from live on the hoof to 40 degree tenderloins the better the taste of the meat.

Bring your orange hat with you to the match on Sunday. Maybe we'll get a shot?

 

[10mmMarc]

I would use just about anything other than a Buck 119
that grip is too slippery.
I prefer a Benchmade with a drop point and a rubber grip.

 

[Woobie]

OP, I feel a little guilty about getting sidetracked in your thread. So I'm going to try to throw something out there that might help provide context and possibly give you food for thought.

Bob Loveless is credited with revolutionizing the idea of the American hunting knife. While you may not be able to afford one of his blades now (or maybe you can if you can find one), the design itself is instructive.

4 1/4" is about as long as you'll want to go. Personally I like the 3 1/2 to 3 3/4" range. Drop point is the way to go. Clip point looks nice, but for a couple of reasons I don't think it is best. You don't want a trailing point. They're just clumsy and offer no benefit. There's also a little research that suggests they cause more injuries than other profiles. Loveless liked the hollow grind, as do many hunters. It is going to give you the best slicing performance, which is 95% of cleaning an animal. My personal preference is for a full flat or saber grind. You gain a bit more meat in the blade for things liking cutting ribs, without giving up much in slicing performance. I just skinned a squirrel last night with a Scandi ground knife. It works, and is viable as an all around woods knife. But for cutting critters there are better options.

You want it sharp. Very sharp.

I have used folders, and they do just as good a job, but cleaning all the blood and guts out of the knife is a pain. Fixed blades are stronger and easier to clean.

Steel selection is important. Meat is actually quite abrasive, and things like the ball on the end of the femur are extremely hard. It's like tapping your blade on a piece of ceramic. So you want something that is tough, not because it will be used as a pry bar, but because the tiny bit of steel at the edge will see some abuse. Also you want something wear resistant. I have a couple of knives I've made in 1095, as well as a couple of ESEE's (which are 1095), and frankly I'm not impressed with the wear resistance. It is a simple, old school steel that requires constant honing. So if you like that sort of thing, take a small honing steel with you. While they are a pain to sharpen and more expensive, steels like 3V, D2, S30V and some others will do you better. There is nothing wrong with properly heat treated 440C (not 440 or 440A) or 154CM.

There a lot of custom, bench and production makers out there making really fine knives that fit these descriptions. Someone is making one for your budget.

 

[rhino]

Steel selection is important. Meat is actually quite abrasive, and things like the ball on the end of the femur are extremely hard. It's like tapping your blade on a piece of ceramic. So you want something that is tough, not because it will be used as a pry bar, but because the tiny bit of steel at the edge will see some abuse. Also you want something wear resistant. I have a couple of knives I've made in 1095, as well as a couple of ESEE's (which are 1095), and frankly I'm not impressed with the wear resistance. It is a simple, old school steel that requires constant honing. So if you like that sort of thing, take a small honing steel with you. While they are a pain to sharpen and more expensive, steels like 3V, D2, S30V and some others will do you better. There is nothing wrong with properly heat treated 440C (not 440 or 440A) or 154CM.

We know I've not field dressed a deer, but I've cut a significant amount of meat with non-kitchen knives and you are spot-on. A knife that will hold an edge whittling and carving wood for quite a while can be dulled quickly by meat, either raw or cooked. 1095 can do better if it's really hard, but then you have problems with brittleness. A steel or strop to use occasionally will help a lot.

Lots of good drop points in the 3-4.5" range in CPM S30V and better steels for not that much money will do really well and most will not corrode very easily.

Flat grinds can slice meat as well or better than a hollow grind as long as they are thin behind the cutting edge. Hollow grinds allow having a relatively thick spine and then a very thin blade behind the cutting edge. The geometry of the ESEE 3 is about perfect for slicing meat (1/8" at the spine and wide enough to be really thin near the cutting edge), but the 1095 is a little soft to slice well without frequent touch-ups. Of course, different people have different standards of "sharp," so probably many people could go a long time without having a problem.

 

[trailrider]

Havalon. I used to use an old Buck 110 used only for field dressing. Saw the havalon in action on an antelope hunt in Wyoming. Watched a guy field dress and skin an antelope in about 30 minutes then pitch the replaceable blade. I've used one the last couple of years and all my hunting buddies that have seen it have bought one. Awesome little knife.

 

[Woobie]

We know I've not field dressed a deer, but I've cut a significant amount of meat with non-kitchen knives and you are spot-on. A knife that will hold an edge whittling and carving wood for quite a while can be dulled quickly by meat, either raw or cooked. 1095 can do better if it's really hard, but then you have problems with brittleness. A steel or strop to use occasionally will help a lot.

Lots of good drop points in the 3-4.5" range in CPM S30V and better steels for not that much money will do really well and most will not corrode very easily.

Flat grinds can slice meat as well or better than a hollow grind as long as they are thin behind the cutting edge. Hollow grinds allow having a relatively thick spine and then a very thin blade behind the cutting edge. The geometry of the ESEE 3 is about perfect for slicing meat (1/8" at the spine and wide enough to be really thin near the cutting edge), but the 1095 is a little soft to slice well without frequent touch-ups. Of course, different people have different standards of "sharp," so probably many people could go a long time without having a problem.

The puuko I made has a 61 HRC 1095 blade. The heat treating was done by a professional using molten salt. I put a convex microbevel on it, and have yet to chip the edge. I have been surprised at the toughness, as I am starting to get more abusive with it to see what it can take. I'm sure geometry has something to do with it. In spite of what is really too-high hardness for 1095, I can still feel it losing its edge while I'm cleaning an animal. After the squirrel last night, I had to go back to 2,000 grit. The strop couldn't bring it back. Perhaps cryo could make a difference, but I doubt most makers are going to those lengths on 1095.

 

[rhino]

The puuko I made has a 61 HRC 1095 blade. The heat treating was done by a professional using molten salt. I put a convex microbevel on it, and have yet to chip the edge. I have been surprised at the toughness, as I am starting to get more abusive with it to see what it can take. I'm sure geometry has something to do with it. In spite of what is really too-high hardness for 1095, I can still feel it losing its edge while I'm cleaning an animal. After the squirrel last night, I had to go back to 2,000 grit. The strop couldn't bring it back. Perhaps cryo could make a difference, but I doubt most makers are going to those lengths on 1095.

Probably not. On an old knife email list I was on, a guy named Alvin was re-heat treating old 1095 pocket knife blades. I don't remember the Rc numbers, but it was was as hard as he could get them. The performance was outstanding, but that's also because they were so thin! One of his knives would have made a great squirrel knife.

I think you've made a good point about the higher end stainless and tool steels, though. They're just going to do a better job holding a working edge when cutting meat/tissues in most situations.

 

[Woobie]

Rhino reminded me of something else I wanted to suggest. Borrow some different knives, buy a couple of cheaper ones like a Mora, and just use them around the kitchen. Buy a whole chicken and quarter it, roast some bone-in pork shoulders and carve them up, carve the turkey next Thursday. You can tell a lot by doing this, such as: how is my grip on the handle when it has grease, water, or blood on it? Is it nimble enough to readily slide between joints to sever connective tissue? Does the tip get into the spots I need it to and cut when it gets there, or does it get in the way? Is it tearing instead of cutting by the end of the job?

 

[rhino]

Rhino reminded me of something else I wanted to suggest. Borrow some different knives, buy a couple of cheaper ones like a Mora, and just use them around the kitchen. Buy a whole chicken and quarter it, roast some bone-in pork shoulders and carve them up, carve the turkey next Thursday. You can tell a lot by doing this, such as: how is my grip on the handle when it has grease, water, or blood on it? Is it nimble enough to readily slide between joints to sever connective tissue? Does the tip get into the spots I need it to and cut when it gets there, or does it get in the way? Is it tearing instead of cutting by the end of the job?

That's a great idea, especially with Thanksgiving approaching!

 

[Woobie]

That's a great idea, especially with Thanksgiving approaching!

Dont make me derail this thread into a discussion about fried turkey, cause I will do it!

 

[bobjones223]

I have used an old Black Jack Knives Trailguide? since I started deer hunting 20+ years ago.

I say Trailguide? because when I got it they were still being made in Effingham IL and made with D-2 tool steel so exact model I am not sure of. It is the staked leather one and has a lovely patina after 20 years of critter blood. Does everything I ask of it including the sternum, I never cut the pelvic because I can't see the sense in it? I would agree that this is probably the largest knife I would use on a deer...they don't take much...just SHARP!

Now I have a friend that uses a Buck #184!.....I tend to give him a load of every time he pulls it out "What Rambo....did Bambi draw first blood?"

This was the first year I tried a Butt Out tool....those are help full but not required.