The Official Hot Rod Thread - Part 4: Burnouts for Distance

[churchmouse]

Clean the gears and put some white grease or similar to run a depth pattern on the set. If indeed the pinion is no set deep enough into the ring then some one made up for that shimming the ring closer to the pinion.
Call me crazy but I am a nut about this area being spot on. Its to dang much hard work for it not to be especially in something I will be hammering on.

 

[jeffsqartan]

Clean the gears and put some white grease or similar to run a depth pattern on the set. If indeed the pinion is no set deep enough into the ring then some one made up for that shimming the ring closer to the pinion.
Call me crazy but I am a nut about this area being spot on. Its to dang much hard work for it not to be especially in something I will be hammering on.

I ordered a rebuild kit from LMR the other week. It's suppose to have bearings and shims along with the gear paint. I've got to get the old bearings removed and new ones pressed on, then I'll get to shimming. I'm not looking forward to it but yes, I want it right. Also, with the axle out of the car this time, it should be much easier to do all of this work.

 

[Jaybird1980]

The pattern definitely looks off, but not terrible. It's hard to tell without grease or bluing on it though. If you hold the ring gear and move the pinion do you deal any backlash? The gears look decent, not wore to a sharp point, even wear on front and back. If they are smooth no pitting or dings I would run them, especially if it's the ratio you want. You will be able to see both gears better when it's apart.

Also get a inch-pound torque wrench and see what it reads while spinning it (preload).
Beam or dial will work, click type will not. I believe that one should only be like 20-25in pounds on lubricated used bearings.

 

[jeffsqartan]

The pattern definitely looks off, but not terrible. It's hard to tell without grease or bluing on it though. If you hold the ring gear and move the pinion do you deal any backlash? The gears look decent, not wore to a sharp point, even wear on front and back. If they are smooth no pitting or dings I would run them, especially if it's the ratio you want. You will be able to see both gears better when it's apart.

Also get a inch-pound torque wrench and see what it reads while spinning it (preload).
Beam or dial will work, click type will not. I believe that one should only be like 20-25in pounds on lubricated used bearings.

Unfortunately, I've already pulled the diff and pinion. I was thinking that there was almost no backlash on it, but now that I'm thinking about it, the pinion nut was already off when I saw that. So I don't know for sure how it was before.

I'm tempted to hit up Harbor Freight for a press and some other parts at this point. I didn't want to, but tools are always nice. A buddy of mine has a shop I can take everything to. Just don't like the hassle.

 

[Jaybird1980]

Unfortunately, I've already pulled the diff and pinion. I was thinking that there was almost no backlash on it, but now that I'm thinking about it, the pinion nut was already off when I saw that. So I don't know for sure how it was before.

I'm tempted to hit up Harbor Freight for a press and some other parts at this point. I didn't want to, but tools are always nice. A buddy of mine has a shop I can take everything to. Just don't like the hassle.

What did the bearings look like, did the rebuild kit include crush sleeve and pinion bearings also?

 

[jeffsqartan]

What did the bearings look like, did the rebuild kit include crush sleeve and pinion bearing also?

I'll upload a picture of the bearings tonight.

Yeah, it was a full kit. Crush sleeve, pinion bearings, diff bearings, paint, and shims for both pinion and bearing. No axle bearings, but that's because I did those when I did the 5 lug swap.

 

[churchmouse]

I ordered a rebuild kit from LMR the other week. It's suppose to have bearings and shims along with the gear paint. I've got to get the old bearings removed and new ones pressed on, then I'll get to shimming. I'm not looking forward to it but yes, I want it right. Also, with the axle out of the car this time, it should be much easier to do all of this work.

I hate doing this under the car even with a lift.
1 I am to old for that crap "And"
2 I am just to old to lay under a car and set this up properly.

 

[Jaybird1980]

I hate doing this under the car even with a lift.
1 I am to old for that crap "And"
2 I am just to old to lay under a car and set this up properly.

Especially with something like this when you know there is very little chance you nail it on the first go round.

 

[Jaybird1980]

S

I'll upload a picture of the bearings tonight.

Yeah, it was a full kit. Crush sleeve, pinion bearings, diff bearings, paint, and shims for both pinion and bearing. No axle bearings, but that's because I did those when I did the 5 lug swap.

Sound like you'll be set. I'm with CM, spend a little extra time getting the pinion preload set correct. Everything is based on that and it is the hardest to change.
If you have a place with a press to use, I would spend some money on a decent vernier caliper, and a dial indicator, I'm partial to Starrett myself, but they can be kinda pricey.

 

[churchmouse]

Especially with something like this when you know there is very little chance you nail it on the first go round.

Bingo. The crush sleeve thing is a pain as well. I would as soon set up a Ford 9"

 

[Jaybird1980]

Bingo. The crush sleeve thing is a pain as well. I would as soon set up a Ford 9"

Yeah the crush sleeve can be a pain. I would change to a solid spacer myself if it was something I was going to be keeping long-term, but budget almost always determines what actually happens.

 

[churchmouse]

Yeah the crush sleeve can be a pain. I would change to a solid spacer myself if it was something I was going to be keeping long-term, but budget almost always determines what actually happens.

The last one I did (12 bo;lt GM) was in my Biscayne street strip car. I cut my own spacer to fit on the lathe. I missed it by (1) .003 shim. Pissed me off.....

 

[femurphy77]

Unfortunately, I've already pulled the diff and pinion. I was thinking that there was almost no backlash on it, but now that I'm thinking about it, the pinion nut was already off when I saw that. So I don't know for sure how it was before.

I'm tempted to hit up Harbor Freight for a press and some other parts at this point. I didn't want to, but tools are always nice. A buddy of mine has a shop I can take everything to. Just don't like the hassle.

I've got many tools that some shops don't have. After renting so many times I promise myself that the next time the need arises I'll just buy it. As I got older though I just went straight to buying, rentals are marginal in use after so much abuse. When we started moving my things out of storage into our present house my then girlfriend couldn't believe that someone could have so many tools and not be in business!

 

[churchmouse]

Put 4 solid coats of Rustolium (Sp) black on the Turbo 400 after an hour of cleaning. I want to put a deep pan on it.

Steering box/linkage's should arrive Monday and I can get that all fit up.

 

[ghitch75]

this is for you know who.......i like it!!

1964 Chevy Belair Wagon - cars & trucks - by owner - vehicle...

California car, no rust, excellent paint & interior, factory A/C that works great. 283 original motor, auto transmission, power rear glass.

indianapolis.craigslist.org

 

[churchmouse]

this is for you know who.......i like it!!

1964 Chevy Belair Wagon - cars & trucks - by owner - vehicle...

California car, no rust, excellent paint & interior, factory A/C that works great. 283 original motor, auto transmission, power rear glass.

indianapolis.craigslist.org

27K on the clock...???

 

[ghitch75]

27K on the clock...???

probably 127k

 

[churchmouse]

probably 127k

Thats my thoughts.

 

[Jaybird1980]

I usually like most wagons, but something about that one just isn't working for me.

 

[churchmouse]

Steering parts came today.
The tie rod is new and complete spindle to spindle ad is a manual steering set up to eliminate that horrific power assist steer ram. Terrible set up.
So the that part is loosely fit up in place. Looks good.

The box is a 1965 actual power steering gear box. I knew modifications would be required to fit it to the frame. And yes there will be some mods required. Not easy peasy by any measure but can be done.

The issue is inn the pitman arm. The 64 arm in the kit will not mount up to the 65 box as the splined shaft on the 65 is larger Dia. and the arm for the 65 shows its female and the 64 parts are female. Confused........

Not so much. I may have it figured out so we will see.