The Official Hot Rod Thread - Part 4: Burnouts for Distance

[Mounty09]

Remind me, it this a stock suspension car? What kind of tire is on it?

Stock geometry. Tubular rear control arms, strange struts and coilovers up front.

It is on a 235 et street that is pretty wore out. I will be stepping up to a 275 tire soon.

 

[Jaybird1980]

Stock geometry. Tubular rear control arms, strange struts and coilovers up front.

It is on a 235 et street that is pretty wore out. I will be stepping up to a 275 tire soon.

Did you get the converter swapped?

 

[Mounty09]

Did you get the converter swapped?

I did get it swapped which is why the car was faster. The converter was advertised as a 3200-3600 stall. I started out at 3000 then dropped to 2900 then again to 2800. Car felt like it was spinning while on the 2-step but the log showed it wasn't. Maybe it was spinning to low to read, idk. I didn't have any cameras set up or have someone there watching me. I need to talk to the converter company to see what they think. I was really hoping it would stall higher.

 

[Jaybird1980]

I did get it swapped which is why the car was faster. The converter was advertised as a 3200-3600 stall. I started out at 3000 then dropped to 2900 then again to 2800. Car felt like it was spinning while on the 2-step but the log showed it wasn't. Maybe it was spinning to low to read, idk. I didn't have any cameras set up or have someone there watching me. I need to talk to the converter company to see what they think. I was really hoping it would stall higher.

What does it flash at? 2800?

 

[Mounty09]

What does it flash at? 2800?

What do you mean by flash? Sorry this is my first time playing with automatics.

 

[Jaybird1980]

What do you mean by flash? Sorry this is my first time playing with automatics.

Hold the brakes, give it gas and see what rpm it goes to. It will flash up to a certain rpm, keep going and it will overpower the brakes.
I could easily be using the wrong term, that's always what we used.

 

[thunderchicken]

I did get it swapped which is why the car was faster. The converter was advertised as a 3200-3600 stall. I started out at 3000 then dropped to 2900 then again to 2800. Car felt like it was spinning while on the 2-step but the log showed it wasn't. Maybe it was spinning to low to read, idk. I didn't have any cameras set up or have someone there watching me. I need to talk to the converter company to see what they think. I was really hoping it would stall higher.

First of all I am NOT an expert on transmissions or converters, that's my disclaimer.
It's my understanding that many off the shelf converters don't accurately match the advertised stall speed. At best they are rated based on an educated guess.
It kinda sucks, but reality is there is a good amount of information a manufacturer needs to make sure you get the most out of the converter. Since we aren't running the spray this year, and we didn't want to alter our bolt together unit we ordered a new one over the winter. Some of the info they needed was car weight, HP & TQ and at what peak RPM, cubic inch, cam spec's, compression ratio, what kind of heads, intake & carbs, trans gear ratio, rear gear ratio and tire size. I even had to email my guy a copy of the dyno sheet. Like the other converters we've gotten from them, it's a nice piece but for our needs it wasn't cheap.
I say all that to give you some perspective of why off the shelf units often are an estimated stall or a compromise between what you had and what you may need. Now depending how much you plan to spray, it could respond drastically different than when it's NA.
Last year we made a few runs NA with the nitrous converter in it and it was well...flat to say the least. Talk to thr manufacturer and see what they think before you spray it. If you drive right through it and get on the rev limiter bad things can happen...ask me how I know lol

 

[Mounty09]

First of all I am NOT an expert on transmissions or converters, that's my disclaimer.
It's my understanding that many off the shelf converters don't accurately match the advertised stall speed. At best they are rated based on an educated guess.
It kinda sucks, but reality is there is a good amount of information a manufacturer needs to make sure you get the most out of the converter. Since we aren't running the spray this year, and we didn't want to alter our bolt together unit we ordered a new one over the winter. Some of the info they needed was car weight, HP & TQ and at what peak RPM, cubic inch, cam spec's, compression ratio, what kind of heads, intake & carbs, trans gear ratio, rear gear ratio and tire size. I even had to email my guy a copy of the dyno sheet. Like the other converters we've gotten from them, it's a nice piece but for our needs it wasn't cheap.
I say all that to give you some perspective of why off the shelf units often are an estimated stall or a compromise between what you had and what you may need. Now depending how much you plan to spray, it could respond drastically different than when it's NA.
Last year we made a few runs NA with the nitrous converter in it and it was well...flat to say the least. Talk to thr manufacturer and see what they think before you spray it. If you drive right through it and get on the rev limiter bad things can happen...ask me how I know lol

I had read and heard that about off the shelf converters before I bought this one. The guy I bought it from told me he used it for about 100 miles then found a deal on a triple disc and decided to upgrade. I guess I just had to figure it out for myself and I will even say I knew better. I had even filled out some of the converter questionnaires and know how specific they are. I paid $350 for this converter and that was the draw to it.

I'm not really irritated about it because I know it will need changed for boost and that is the end goal. Picking up a half second for $350 is a huge win in my book for this year.

 

[thunderchicken]

I had read and heard that about off the shelf converters before I bought this one. The guy I bought it from told me he used it for about 100 miles then found a deal on a triple disc and decided to upgrade. I guess I just had to figure it out for myself and I will even say I knew better. I had even filled out some of the converter questionnaires and know how specific they are. I paid $350 for this converter and that was the draw to it.

I'm not really irritated about it because I know it will need changed for boost and that is the end goal. Picking up a half second for $350 is a huge win in my book for this year.

You maybe able to have that converter loosened up or tightened up some to make it work better for your current set up or maybe even to handle the spray you previously mentioned wanting to use.
We've had converters cut open and reworked before so it might be an option. That's usually much cheaper than buying a new one.
But in any case $350 and picked up nearly a half second isn't bad at all.

 

[Mounty09]

You maybe able to have that converter loosened up or tightened up some to make it work better for your current set up or maybe even to handle the spray you previously mentioned wanting to use.
We've had converters cut open and reworked before so it might be an option. That's usually much cheaper than buying a new one.
But in any case $350 and picked up nearly a half second isn't bad at all.

Yeah I need to call the manufacturer and see what they have to say. It has been a busy past few weeks so it hasn't been on the top of my priority list.

 

[Bigtanker]

Watching Demo Ranches video of the Indy event. My son makes an appearance with Matt in the video at 15:05!!



And you can see the Ranchtang burnout too.

 

[gregkl]

I ordered the bearings, shim kit and the ancillary pieces needed for a full rebuild. I am carefully measuring everything that I am removing to get a base. I will measure the new stuff to see how it matches so I can start with something close and go from there. I bought extra bearings to create setup bearings. Hopefully I will be reporting back at some point with a favorable pattern and proper preload!

 

[Jaybird1980]

I ordered the bearings, shim kit and the ancillary pieces needed for a full rebuild. I am carefully measuring everything that I am removing to get a base. I will measure the new stuff to see how it matches so I can start with something close and go from there. I bought extra bearings to create setup bearings. Hopefully I will be reporting back at some point with a favorable pattern and proper preload!

View attachment 200974

You can actually just buy set up bearings made for this.

 

[gregkl]

You can actually just buy set up bearings made for this.

I saw those. But they were pricey compared to making my own. Plus I'm hoping that since I bought the same brand/PN bearings I may get lucky and the will be dimensionally the same.

 

[Jaybird1980]

I saw those. But they were pricey compared to making my own. Plus I'm hoping that since I bought the same brand/PN bearings I may get lucky and the will be dimensionally the same.

They're pricey, I was just mentioning it because you said you didn't have the stuff to make them.

 

[gregkl]

They're pricey, I was just mentioning it because you said you didn't have the stuff to make them.

I do now, lol.

 

[gregkl]

So the only parts store that had a loaner clamshell bearing puller had it all jacked up. It appears someone used a little too much force and knocked chunks out of the area that slips under the bearing. I am fairly certain that it would not grip enough "lip" of the bearing to remove it.

So I either take it to a local shop who will do it for $50 or buy a HF(cringe) clamshell tool for $50.

What say you guys? Are my chances good at getting the bearings off with the clamshell puller without an arbor press?

 

[jeffsqartan]

So the only parts store that had a loaner clamshell bearing puller had it all jacked up. It appears someone used a little too much force and knocked chunks out of the area that slips under the bearing. I am fairly certain that it would not grip enough "lip" of the bearing to remove it.

So I either take it to a local shop who will do it for $50 or buy a HF(cringe) clamshell tool for $50.

What say you guys? Are my chances good at getting the bearings off with the clamshell puller without an arbor press?

I know that I'm gonna re-use tools, so last year when I did the rear in my Mustang I went ahead and bought the press and the puller. I've used it now to rebuild the rear gears, my transmission, and some press-in bushings on a control arm. Personally, super useful to have all of that stuff on hand.

If you're not gonna buy the press, then it's probably gonna be a little harder to get that stuff off, so not sure if it's worth buying the tool when you're still gonna fight it.

 

[thunderchicken]

So the only parts store that had a loaner clamshell bearing puller had it all jacked up. It appears someone used a little too much force and knocked chunks out of the area that slips under the bearing. I am fairly certain that it would not grip enough "lip" of the bearing to remove it.

So I either take it to a local shop who will do it for $50 or buy a HF(cringe) clamshell tool for $50.

What say you guys? Are my chances good at getting the bearings off with the clamshell puller without an arbor press?

To remove the pressed on pinion or carrier side bearings I always just heat the bearing base up cherry red as wide a patch as I can and usually I see them move. Then I smack them with a hammer and chisel a time or two an they are off. I never use a clamshell separator

If you have an air hammer with chisel bit that's even easier once some heat is applied. Built many Ford 8.8s this way

 

[Brad69]

THF!