The Official Hot Rod Thread - Part 4: Burnouts for Distance

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  • churchmouse

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    I did get it swapped which is why the car was faster. The converter was advertised as a 3200-3600 stall. I started out at 3000 then dropped to 2900 then again to 2800. Car felt like it was spinning while on the 2-step but the log showed it wasn't. Maybe it was spinning to low to read, idk. I didn't have any cameras set up or have someone there watching me. I need to talk to the converter company to see what they think. I was really hoping it would stall higher.
    OK what is the red line on the engine and where do you shift the car.
    If you are on the 2 step with the brakes locked it should not spin.
    Drum or disk rear brakes.
    Flashing a converter is hard with out a Trans-Brake.
    If you roll out slowly and stab the throttle what does the tach do. You should feel a launch somewhere in the stall band towards the top.
     

    churchmouse

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    I know that I'm gonna re-use tools, so last year when I did the rear in my Mustang I went ahead and bought the press and the puller. I've used it now to rebuild the rear gears, my transmission, and some press-in bushings on a control arm. Personally, super useful to have all of that stuff on hand.

    If you're not gonna buy the press, then it's probably gonna be a little harder to get that stuff off, so not sure if it's worth buying the tool when you're still gonna fight it.
    ^^^^^^This^^^^^^^
     

    gregkl

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    ^^^^^^This^^^^^^^
    I'm going to take a look at the tool today at lunch. If it looks like I can make it work without destroying it, I'll buy it.

    My longer term goal is to get a welder and learn how to weld. One project I already have in mind is a DIY press. It would be an easier project with all straight cuts and not much welding.

    I am sure I will have more bearings, gears and pulleys to remove between myself and my son-on-laws stuff he uses around his farm.
     

    jeffsqartan

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    Well. New drive shaft is in. Found out why the old shaft was so unhappy - one of the weights friggen fell off.

    Anyway, it still vibrates in the shifter, unsurprisingly. However, got it up to 100 and it actually felt smooth. I did notice an odd vibration when I let off the clutch and let it come down. Kinda makes me wonder if there's some work to be done in the rear.

    We're not gonna worry about that right now.
    Current goal: get that Mountaineer engine built and put in the car.
     

    thunderchicken

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    We're not gonna worry about that right now.
    Current goal: get that Mountaineer engine built and put in the car.
    This is probably the best thing you could do for that car.
    Based on everything you've checked and done, I totally agree with what Churchmouse has said. I would bet a dollar to a donut that your tired engine is the culprit.
    Buy some good parts to go in it and do it right and you won't be disappointed
     

    churchmouse

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    This is probably the best thing you could do for that car.
    Based on everything you've checked and done, I totally agree with what Churchmouse has said. I would bet a dollar to a donut that your tired engine is the culprit.
    Buy some good parts to go in it and do it right and you won't be disappointed
    ^^^^^^^^THIS^^^^^^^^^^^^
     

    churchmouse

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    I'm going to take a look at the tool today at lunch. If it looks like I can make it work without destroying it, I'll buy it.

    My longer term goal is to get a welder and learn how to weld. One project I already have in mind is a DIY press. It would be an easier project with all straight cuts and not much welding.

    I am sure I will have more bearings, gears and pulleys to remove between myself and my son-on-laws stuff he uses around his farm.
    That is a cant go wrong path to follow. Get a decent welder. Something with a fair duty cycle and possibly gas. Build the press and hone your skills. Spraying molten wire (Mig) welding is not that difficult to master.
    Make sure every surface to be welded is clean. No paint/grease etc. You tube is your friend.
     

    thunderchicken

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    That is a cant go wrong path to follow. Get a decent welder. Something with a fair duty cycle and possibly gas. Build the press and hone your skills. Spraying molten wire (Mig) welding is not that difficult to master.
    Make sure every surface to be welded is clean. No paint/grease etc. You tube is your friend.
    I agree with all but "and possibly gas". IMHO, unless you are doing a lot of welding outside, don't even mess with the flux wire stuff. Get a unit with gas.
    The flux stuff I've seen used has to be pecked with a chipping hammer like old stick welder beads to chip off the flux that acts in place of shielding gas.
     

    churchmouse

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    I agree with all but "and possibly gas". IMHO, unless you are doing a lot of welding outside, don't even mess with the flux wire stuff. Get a unit with gas.
    The flux stuff I've seen used has to be pecked with a chipping hammer like old stick welder beads to chip off the flux that acts in place of shielding gas.
    Agreed. I was playing to his judicious use of the dollar bill but yes, gas is a must.
    Buddy bought a cheap as flux wire 115V welder on line and swore it would do just fine.
    No, it sucked. 3" bead duty cycle. No penetration. POS.
     

    thunderchicken

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    Agreed. I was playing to his judicious use of the dollar bill but yes, gas is a must.
    Buddy bought a cheap as flux wire 115V welder on line and swore it would do just fine.
    No, it sucked. 3" bead duty cycle. No penetration. POS.
    Yeah I have a buddy that bought a a POS 115v flux wire unit that he thought would be fine for welding tabs and brackets for his bracket car. It worked like a POS too. He has a nephew that's a certified welder, he tried to use it got nad and cut the cord off and threw it in the trash. Now that being said, I know of a chassis shop that does serious work and the use Vulcan (tig) welders from Harbor Freight and put out beautiful work.
     

    gregkl

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    Agreed. I was playing to his judicious use of the dollar bill but yes, gas is a must.
    Buddy bought a cheap as flux wire 115V welder on line and swore it would do just fine.
    No, it sucked. 3" bead duty cycle. No penetration. POS.
    I will go with gas. My son-in-law bought flux welder and he hates it.

    BTW, I took the ring and pinion to a local shop and he pressed the old bearings off for me. $20. Well worth it.

    I need to consider paying people for some things instead of insisting I have to do everything myself. He even zip tied the inner races and shims to each side so I know what came off.
     

    churchmouse

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    I will go with gas. My son-in-law bought flux welder and he hates it.

    BTW, I took the ring and pinion to a local shop and he pressed the old bearings off for me. $20. Well worth it.

    I need to consider paying people for some things instead of insisting I have to do everything myself. He even zip tied the inner races and shims to each side so I know what came off.
    That’s a deal.
    Trust I get it. You want to turn every nut/bolt
     

    thunderchicken

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    Yep. No more running the LSx at the ragged edge and constantly fixing the next weak link.
    They can't go wrong with a Steve Morris engine. I'm not at all familiar with the car it's going into but hopefully the rest of the car is up to the task of handling that much jump in power. It tales a whole lot of chassis to handle 4k+ HP.
     

    Bigtanker

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    They can't go wrong with a Steve Morris engine. I'm not at all familiar with the car it's going into but hopefully the rest of the car is up to the task of handling that much jump in power. It tales a whole lot of chassis to handle 4k+ HP.
    If you have time, (it's 55 videos) here is the build series on Mullet, the car the engine is going in.

    I think it will be able to handle the power.

     
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