The Official Hot Rod Thread - Part 4: Burnouts for Distance

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  • jeffsqartan

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    Anyone gonna be out at ProTEQ tomorrow for the range day? Looking like it's gonna be a good day, so I'm hoping to take the Stang out there.
     

    jeffsqartan

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    This was the most stubborn stuck bolt I've ever dealt with in my entire life. Multiple welds, days soaked in penetrant, nothing. I finally gave up and attempted to drill it out. Had to buy a set of cobalt drill bits (good investment regardless) and a tap and die set.
    The hole isn't perfect, but it seems to be holding just fine so I'm gonna give it a shot. Worst case Ontario, I end up putting a helicoil in it later.

    Oh, and last pic is of a tap that ended up... worthless... After I tried to run it. Don't know if it was a weak tap or... What...
     

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    churchmouse

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    This was the most stubborn stuck bolt I've ever dealt with in my entire life. Multiple welds, days soaked in penetrant, nothing. I finally gave up and attempted to drill it out. Had to buy a set of cobalt drill bits (good investment regardless) and a tap and die set.
    The hole isn't perfect, but it seems to be holding just fine so I'm gonna give it a shot. Worst case Ontario, I end up putting a helicoil in it later.

    Oh, and last pic is of a tap that ended up... worthless... After I tried to run it. Don't know if it was a weak tap or... What...
    Tools....you get what you pay for.

    Never scrimp on Taps, dies, drill bits. The extra spent now pays off in the long haul.
    Never burn down your bits. Turn them reasonable speeds and keep lubricated.
    The time taken will pay off in the long haul.
     

    jeffsqartan

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    Tools....you get what you pay for.

    Never scrimp on Taps, dies, drill bits. The extra spent now pays off in the long haul.
    Never burn down your bits. Turn them reasonable speeds and keep lubricated.
    The time taken will pay off in the long haul.
    The bits I had were old horror fright hss. I knew I was turning it too fast but I couldn't believe it hadn't broke through yet. That bolt was supremely stubborn.

    I'm amazed that the tap twisted like it did. I had bought an Irwin set because I didn't know I had the one. I ran the Irwin through, then found the bottom tap and thought I'd run it. No idea what brand it was. Really glad it didn't snap, though. Talk about out of the fire and into the pan haha.
     

    thunderchicken

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    The bits I had were old horror fright hss. I knew I was turning it too fast but I couldn't believe it hadn't broke through yet. That bolt was supremely stubborn.

    I'm amazed that the tap twisted like it did. I had bought an Irwin set because I didn't know I had the one. I ran the Irwin through, then found the bottom tap and thought I'd run it. No idea what brand it was. Really glad it didn't snap, though. Talk about out of the fire and into the pan haha.
    Based on the picture of the debris on the two taps, they look too dry. What kind of lube were you using?
     

    churchmouse

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    Exhaust bolts seem to take on a hardness on a level unknown to mortal men. I seriously hate removing old exhaust manifolds especially on. Cold engine for this reason. On a hot engine you at least have a chance.
    My SIL has a 1971 Buick Riviera with a 455 T-400 in it. We pulled the engine/trans so I could freshen up the engine and trans. I broke 3 manifold bolts on both sides. Not enough sticking up to weld on and welding adds to the difficulty of drilling them out. I wasted several drill bit’s on one head and suddenly remembered I own a mill and tooling at the other shop.
    Once set up the process was effortless.
    It was well worth the 10 minute drive/carrying 2 cast heads off a 455 Buick and setting up the mill. Knocked out the undrilled p head.
    Then I put Time Certs in 2 of the drilled holes on the other head because I missed center.
    Did I mention I hate this task. Hate it.
     

    churchmouse

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    jeffsqartan

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    Based on the picture of the debris on the two taps, they look too dry. What kind of lube were you using?
    Lube? Ha. Haha. Hahahaha yeah I didn't lube either one and now that you say that, I definitely should have. I always learned to start, back off, start, back off. And all previous tapping has been less serious. Definitely taking notes for next time.

    New valve springs are in. Need to clean the rockers up, roloc the decks, and these heads should be ready to go back on.

    Do the same for the block, and then the heads can get popped on.

    That reminds me, I do need to pick up a new pick up tube. I can't reuse the one that's from the Mountaineer, and I have a fear that the one in the Mustang has a crack in it.
     

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    thunderchicken

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    Lube? Ha. Haha. Hahahaha yeah I didn't lube either one and now that you say that, I definitely should have. I always learned to start, back off, start, back off. And all previous tapping has been less serious. Definitely taking notes for next time.

    New valve springs are in. Need to clean the rockers up, roloc the decks, and these heads should be ready to go back on.

    Do the same for the block, and then the heads can get popped on.

    That reminds me, I do need to pick up a new pick up tube. I can't reuse the one that's from the Mountaineer, and I have a fear that the one in the Mustang has a crack in it.
    Well that's certainly at least part of why those taps ended up the way they did.

    No offense meant in the way I'm going to say this.... Here's a life lesson, all too often in life lubrication is the key
     

    churchmouse

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    Well that's certainly at least part of why those taps ended up the way they did.

    No offense meant in the way I'm going to say this.... Here's a life lesson, all too often in life lubrication is the key
    Yup. I was shown very early on when I ruined some drill bits that a drop of oil is the key. Even a can of WD-40 keeping the work wet will carry off the bit killing heat and keep the chips flying.
    Top tip….
    Use some break parts cleaner on the hole. Blow it out clearing away the crap.
    Get the tap wet with oil and get started. Make turns until it gets really tight then back out the tap. Clean the hole as described with BPC and air. Blow off the tap until all the chips are gone. Wet the hole with lube…wash rinse repeat.
    Yes it takes a bit of time but the end result is a solid set of threads and a tap you can use again and again.

    Chasing a tapped hole is the same process. BPC and blow it out. Wet the threads and chase the hole.
    I chase “Every “ tapped hole on an engine block as part of the clean up to assemble process. You get a better torque reading from a fresh/clean set of threads. Yes it is time consuming. Yes it makes for a solid/reliably torqued assembly. If you take your time and are patient a battery drill moves the process along nicely but always finale clean every hole.
    Always.
    And assemble with a drop of oil and or ARP thread lube where required.
     

    femurphy77

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    churchmouse

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    The ass looks more cutlass than chevelle but overall I like it better than the trans am conversion for some reason.
    Not a fan of the TA conversion. Just not.
    Yes the TA was a Camaro in Pontiac clothing but it was a Pontiac in the end. I had 2 of them. Well the 78 had an Olds turd motor in it that was swapped for a BB Chevy but the top hose on the radiator and the battery was on the other side…:):
     

    Mounty09

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    OK what is the red line on the engine and where do you shift the car.
    If you are on the 2 step with the brakes locked it should not spin.
    Drum or disk rear brakes.
    Flashing a converter is hard with out a Trans-Brake.
    If you roll out slowly and stab the throttle what does the tach do. You should feel a launch somewhere in the stall band towards the top.
    Sorry for the late response, I just got back from a few days in Moab!

    I like to keep the redline under 6500, I've heard the stock internals don't like to spin too high.
    It shouldn't spin but if I have the 2 step set too high, it will push thru
    I just rebuilt the rear drums this winter.
    I will have to try that. When I do, I will data log it.
     

    thunderchicken

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    Sorry for the late response, I just got back from a few days in Moab!

    I like to keep the redline under 6500, I've heard the stock internals don't like to spin too high.
    It shouldn't spin but if I have the 2 step set too high, it will push thru
    I just rebuilt the rear drums this winter.
    I will have to try that. When I do, I will data log it.
    What are you using to log data?
     

    bobzilla

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    Back on track this last weekend. Blackhawk farms in commie Illinoying. Fantastic site, fun small track and laid back atmosphere. The SCCA B-spec record there is a 1:26.9, I ran a 1:32.8. B-spec uses a spec Ho-Ho tire while we are running 200TW street tires. I'm still using the tires from One Lap and I have last years tires when those are done. Car was great, made some passes, ran faster than a lot of the Sundae Cup cars. Being a "fun weekend" we have no recorded times and it was awesome to reax and enjoy.
    1653336448331.png
     
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