The wizardmaster! More complicated than I'm comfortable working on. Nice diagram.We had a great time with the kids today! Now some CZ stuff
This is the Pre B sear cage and parts. Due to different geometry of the CGW hammer they have an adjustable sear. The set screw is to make the proper manual safety adjustment, then use red Loctite. They use their standard ad. sear with a spacer to equal the stock sear width. The Pre B only has one spring for the sear. A 75 B has a sear spring plus lifter arm & lifter arm spring (AKA F-Me Spring)! A 75 B Decocker adds the decocker lever and lever spring.
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75 B Decocker, extreme care must be taken with the F-Me spring so it does not get crushed. Then the decocker spring has to be set under the the lower leg of the decocker lever.
Part of the reason I do not care for the decocker models.We had a great time with the kids today! Now some CZ stuff
This is the Pre B sear cage and parts. Due to different geometry of the CGW hammer they have an adjustable sear. The set screw is to make the proper manual safety adjustment, then use red Loctite. They use their standard ad. sear with a spacer to equal the stock sear width. The Pre B only has one spring for the sear. A 75 B has a sear spring plus lifter arm & lifter arm spring (AKA F-Me Spring)! A 75 B Decocker adds the decocker lever and lever spring.
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75 B Decocker, extreme care must be taken with the F-Me spring so it does not get crushed. Then the decocker spring has to be set under the the lower leg of the decocker lever.
She's got the look of a future Wizard ... I trust you will enlighten her to your ways so that the CZ wizardry will continue to the next generation.Posting this just because she is so darn cute! My Grand Daughter will be here soon and bringing her parents View attachment 144564
The sear cage is assembled, The set screw on the top left side of the sear is used to adjust the manual safety after full assemble then set with red Loctite. The Race hammer has the disconnector pinned in the front end and the hammer strut pinned to the rear with CGW hardened pins. The trigger bar just needs the CGW 85 trigger and reduced power trigger return spring installed using a slave pin to retain in place until the removable trigger pin is installed through the frame. Notice that the trigger bar is polished and smooth as glass without removing the tool marks! It is hard to tell from the angle but I give special attention to 14 contact points that are smoothed out.
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I've got a Wizardized SP-01 Shadow, someday I'll get a churchmoused 1911.
This is why you are the THE Wizard and we are mere mortals.
This is why you are the THE Wizard and we are mere mortals.