sharpeners. what are you using?

[jeremy]

Has anyone here seen/used the Wicked Edge Field and Sport Set?!

 

[jbombelli]

It claims to have a fifteen degree edge, but it was more like twenty five. It's twenty now. I cord wrapped mine too.

Wow. Was yours sharpened by "someone" who isn't good at sharpening?

because mine was right about 15 degrees out of the box, and it's a sweet little slicer.

I'm really leaning towards getting some scales for mine, and a different sheath. The sheath sucks. It dulls it fast. I am not quite sure how it happens, but I hone it up, get it shaving-sharp, put it in the sheath, take it out, and it's dull. And it's the same spot that's dull every time. I read about this online (many complaints), and it's definitely sheath related.

 

[phylodog]

Has anyone here seen/used the Wicked Edge Field and Sport Set?!

I just saw it on their website yesterday but haven't seen one in person.

 

[jeremy]

I just saw it on their website yesterday but haven't seen one in person.

For my usage I think the Field and Sport one is the one I would use more. I'll have to do some digging on the 'net now...

By the way that is a ****ing sexy outfit the way you have yours setup!

 

[phylodog]

Thx, I'm pretty pleased with how it turned out. I wish I could say that I built it but I had a friend's brother put it together for me. I have the drawing on Sketchup with dimensions if anyone wants to make one for themselves.

 

[Rookie]

Wow. Was yours sharpened by "someone" who isn't good at sharpening?

because mine was right about 15 degrees out of the box, and it's a sweet little slicer.

I'm really leaning towards getting some scales for mine, and a different sheath. The sheath sucks. It dulls it fast. I am not quite sure how it happens, but I hone it up, get it shaving-sharp, put it in the sheath, take it out, and it's dull. And it's the same spot that's dull every time. I read about this online (many complaints), and it's definitely sheath related.

Mine was dull right out of the box.

 

[jbombelli]

Mine was dull right out of the box.

That sucks.

But I look at that as an opportunity to spend quality time with a new knife. LOL.

 

[traderdan]

It is a critical life skill that you need to aquire,you really should learn to establish angle,and sharpen on a stone.Sometimes at auctions,flea markets ect..I see large carborundum stones from butcher shops...get something like this and learn.It just takes practice.Same angle,both sides,equal amount of strokes on each side.Forget the fancy devices.

 

[jmdavis984]

I spent some quality time with my Lansky, and after watching hours of youtube vids, and hearing "it's all about the bur" more times than I can count, I put a quality edge on an old rusty kitchen knife (old garage knife, you know the type). I think my only pick against the Lansky is that the stones are so thin. I would probably go with a Gatco setup if I had the extra coin.

I hear lots of recommendations for the Edge Pro and Wicked Edge sharpeners, but I never hear anything about the KME system (KME Precision Knife and Broadhead Sharpeners) Anyone have any experience with that one?

 

[grunt soldier]

The KME system is a nice system and the owner is a good guy who will help you if you are having problems. I haven't read of any real problems with them, they just haven't taken off quite like the others.

 

[Dorky_D]

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8e5SWISuDLc&feature=g-all-u[/ame]
I think I may get one of these at some point.

 

[billyboyr6]

I have been doing the flat sandpaper on a hard surface in varying grits up to 2000 and then the back of my leather belt. They seem to get extremely sharp that way, but with being shaving sharp, my knives (daily users) refuse to hold those edges for long. Steels such as d2, and s30v.

I use the sharpie method to ensure I'm free handing evenly, and I can polish the edges to a mirror shine razor blade, but cutting say a piece of cardboard, or insulation will dull it right away. Am I just trying to use a show and tell edge on a user? Or am I doing something else wrong?

 

[grunt soldier]

It should hold that edge much longer than that especially with d2 and s30v. It sounds to me like your just rolling the burr from side to side and not getting rid of it. The mirror polish edge should allow it to hold it for a minute. Try a nice toothy edge like 600 grit or 800 grit and don't strop it to much. That will probably work better on cardboard any how.

 

[billyboyr6]

It should hold that edge much longer than that especially with d2 and s30v. It sounds to me like your just rolling the burr from side to side and not getting rid of it. The mirror polish edge should allow it to hold it for a minute. Try a nice toothy edge like 600 grit or 800 grit and don't strop it to much. That will probably work better on cardboard any how.

Thank you sir. I will try a toothier edge and see how it goes. I thought the polished edge would cut better, and last longer but no luck. At least for me. Surely it's my sharpening skilz. Lol

 

[rhino]

It should hold that edge much longer than that especially with d2 and s30v. It sounds to me like your just rolling the burr from side to side and not getting rid of it. The mirror polish edge should allow it to hold it for a minute. Try a nice toothy edge like 600 grit or 800 grit and don't strop it to much. That will probably work better on cardboard any how.

This is why doing a secondary bevel works well ... it gets rid of the burr/wire edge.

 

[buffalohump]

Arkansas stone is for finishing, To reprofile use another method. At one time guys at Westend polishing in Warsaw made knives from heat treated 440 stainless using a polishing lathe

 

[Rookie]

This is why doing a secondary bevel works well ... it gets rid of the burr/wire edge.

Can you explain (in degrees) what you're meaning?

 

[rhino]

Can you explain (in degrees) what you're meaning?

I'll try, but I can't give a specific degree measurement.

The idea is that you sharpen with whatever primary bevel angle to prefer until you develop a burr (sometimes a burr won't form, though). After you get it as sharp as you want, you raise the the angle of the blade very slightly and stroke on your finest grit that you used for 3-5 strokes on each side.

If you have a wire edge/burr, this will usually remove it and the edge that is left is sharper, more aggressive, and will remain adequately sharp a lot longer.

I think the "razor edge" sharpening system explains it pretty well. That's the system used by those guys who used to do demos shaving their faces with axes they sharpened from dull to really, really sharp.

 

[grunt soldier]

I don't do a secondary bevel. I don't really like it and have not really needed it. what I do at the very end when I get up to about 800 or higher grit at the very end I get the stone completely dry, no oil or water and do 2 passes on each side rotating. it will wipe out the burr. then when done with that run it on the strop a few times you should be golden.

The burr is a pain until you figure it out as it just flip flops from side to side as you sharpen. once you understand it though it's easy enough to get rid of.

 

[Rookie]

What's the easiest way to figure out if you have a burr?