Removing a "stuck" hardened screw...

[DoggyDaddy]

Here's the problem... I have a Brazilian Mauser that I need to take apart, and the front trigger guard/magazine/trigger assembly screw is stuck. It's a slotted head screw that was stripped before I got the rifle. I have tried using my "backout" bits made for just this purpose, but apparently the metal of the screw is just too hard for the bit to grab onto. Does anyone in the Indy area have 1) a small drill bit suitable for drilling into the damaged screw, 2) a small left-hand thread tap and 3) time to take a look at this? I think my best option is to try and drill and tap a hole down into the screw and try and back it out with another left-handed screw. I really want to avoid drilling out the damaged screw completely because then I'd have to re-tap the hole and find a screw that would still work with the rifle.

 

[30calmachinegunner]

What about setting it up in a mill and using carbide to take the head off? Sounds like once the head is off and the stock removed it would be easy enough to get to, if you want help I'm on the north side and drop me a PM

 

[Mr. Habib]

Left hand drill bits are your friend. I picked up a cheap set at Menard's for things like this. If you were closer you could borrow mine.

 

[DoggyDaddy]

Left hand drill bits are your friend. I picked up a cheap set at Menard's for things like this. If you were closer you could borrow mine.

Well, that's basically what these "back-out" bits are... kind of like left handed screws. They work fine on regular (not hardened) screws, just not on this one.

 

[DoggyDaddy]

What about setting it up in a mill and using carbide to take the head off? Sounds like once the head is off and the stock removed it would be easy enough to get to, if you want help I'm on the north side and drop me a PM

Possibly, but I don't know how much of the screw would be left to grab once the head is removed and the trigger guard assembly is removed. Wouldn't be much, that's for sure. Appreciate the offer though!

 

[Bosshoss]

Cobalt drills will drill most hardened bolts. I used a cobalt drill to drill many broken bolts at work. Some smaller screws can be very hard but try a cobalt drill.

 

[DoggyDaddy]

Cobalt drills will drill most hardened bolts. I used a cobalt drill to drill many broken bolts at work. Some smaller screws can be very hard but try a cobalt drill.

I'll have to look around here... I've got a couple of cobalt bits... somewhere! Can't remember how big they are though. I'm thinking they may be too big.

 

[Squirt239]

Bring it up to the shop. I'll give you a hand...and a mill. Havlin's Firearms Finishing

 

[Mr. Habib]

How much of the screw head is above the wood? If there is enough, I have had pretty good success repairing or making a new screw slot with a Dremel tool and carbide cutting wheel.

 

[DoggyDaddy]

How much of the screw head is above the wood? If there is enough, I have had pretty good success repairing or making a new screw slot with a Dremel tool and carbide cutting wheel.

Unfortunately it's flush with the trigger guard.

 

[DoggyDaddy]

Bring it up to the shop. I'll give you a hand...and a mill. Havlin's Firearms Finishing

Thanks Brett. I may have to resort to that.

 

[30calmachinegunner]

Possibly, but I don't know how much of the screw would be left to grab once the head is removed and the trigger guard assembly is removed. Wouldn't be much, that's for sure. Appreciate the offer though!

Tackle the problem one step at a time, get it out of the stock first then see what's needed, have a full machine shop here

 

[1911ly]

I'd take Squirt or 30cal up on there offer's. It sound like you many be past the DYI stage!

 

[DoggyDaddy]

I'd take Squirt or 30cal up on there offer's. It sound like you many be past the DYI stage!

Oh I definitely think I'm past the DIY stage. That's why I came to for advice and help!

 

[DoggyDaddy]

Tackle the problem one step at a time, get it out of the stock first then see what's needed, have a full machine shop here

Well, that's the thing... can't get it out of the stock without removing the screw head as you mentioned. What I'm really wanting to avoid is messing up the existing threads in the hole, so I can use an OEM screw (I have one coming from Numrich). I may take you up on your offer unless I can figure something else out. I do have time on my side at least. It's not like this thing is my EDC. (Although that would be a sight to see!)

 

[30calmachinegunner]

That's what I was referring to, mill the head off , get it out of the stock then access the situation

 

[bdybdall]

Take .30calmachinegunner up on his offer and don't take chances screwing something up. Let a machinist (.30cal) do it.

 

[DoggyDaddy]

Take .30calmachinegunner up on his offer and don't take chances screwing something up. Let a machinist (.30cal) do it.

That's probably what I'm going to do. Just wish he was closer! I appreciate everyone that's given advice and offered to help.

 

[Garander]

Id recommend throwing some PB blaster oil on it beforehand its helped me out a lot when a get used muzzleloaders that have stuck parts. As for the head maybe cut a new slot?

 

[DoggyDaddy]

Id recommend throwing some PB blaster oil on it beforehand its helped me out a lot when a get used muzzleloaders that have stuck parts. As for the head maybe cut a new slot?

I tried the PB Blaster - no luck. I don't think I can cut a new slot, because I already buggered it up even worse by trying my back-out bits. But, that would have been tough anyway since it's flush with the metal of the trigger guard assembly.