Removing a stripped bolt catch screw on 308 lower?

[code_red]

Purchased a "stripped" lower from a guy online, only for it to arrive with a bolt catch installed. Suspiciously, I looked at the screw and, sure enough, it's stripped out. I had already been through this once before on a dmps lower and I ended up having to drill it out. I've tried various allen wrenches and torx. Resulted in using an extractor that didn't work. It's more rounded out than pictured now. I thought about expoxying something to it to try and back it out. What are my options here? Any gunsmiths willing to help me?

Crappy cell pic...sorry!

 

[30calmachinegunner]

Isn't that a roll pin?

 

[223 Gunner]

Looks like a roll pin to me. You will need a roll pin punch and a hammer.

 

[Squirt239]

Appears to be a roll pin...

 

[SERparacord]

 

[code_red]

It isn't a roll pin. I wish it was. That's one way ar15 lowers and dpms pattern 308 lowers differ. It's a special screw like this.

 

[TheWabbit]

If it's stripped and you need to rotate to get it out, maybe you could use a damaged screw remover?

Shop GRABIT Grabit #1 Damaged Screw Remover at Lowes.com

 

[praff]

I have had very good luck with these

McMaster-Carr

They have tapered hex ends and you pound it into the bolt head. Then you can twist it out with a wrench. I would be carefull drilling on that as if you get into the alluminum, it will be very soft and bad things could happen rather quickly. Also, that spot on the lower is pretty thin, so be aware that you could crack your lower right there pretty easily as well.

 

[Mgderf]

Tell the seller you want your money back.

 

[Mr. Habib]

You could try a left hand drill bit.

 

[wsenefeld]

Find out what size allen it should have been and put some jb weld on it. CMT TAC billet lowers are the same way.

 

[jontheturboguy]

I would clean the hex area as thoroughly as possible. Then, I would use a metric or standard allen BIT not a KEY. Use one that you can forcefully tap in with small brass hammer.

Before doing so, epoxy the hole.

Wait over night.

Id then apply some heat to the general area, most likely through a soldering iron.

Then try to remove.

If no success, drill out and ream to appropriate roll pin size.

 

[IndyGunworks]

I agree with the above except for the heat. most epoxies are heat sensitive and will more than likely negate any gain you have from epoxying something in in the first place. I would definatly try the epoxy route though.

 

[bluewraith]

If you want to get fancy you could find a machine shop with an EDM. Everything is better with sparks!

 

[Squirt239]

Just bring it to my shop. I'll drill it out on the mill for you. Should be a quick easy job, I have the tools, and I won't charge you as it'll take less than a few minutes. Call it an INGO discount :-)

 

[indyblue]

I would try a micro-torch (for creme brulee?) and warm it up (not too hot) and try an easy out while it is hot. If the screw has threadlocker on it the heat will release it as well as expand the metal around the threads removing some of the friction.

Of course it would be ideal to just take it to the shop per the above reply, that's a nice offer,

I wish auto shops were as accommodating as squirt.

 

[saleen4971]

on top of the suggestions, tapping the area with a hammer (please dont use a metal faced one) tends to help loosen up seized threads