picatinnny/weaver rails, mounting...CLAMPS???!?!?

[armedindy]

which way do the clamps go??? they are not the same right side up as upside down..and i dont know which is which...? why arent there some easy tutorials for this??? any help with the difference between weaver and picatinny, and which way the clamps go, and basic advice for mounting the scope on my new rifle would be greatly appreciated.....

 

[Mr. Habib]

Weaver vs Picatinny

 

[packard]

You can put the clamps on whichever side you prefer. When mounting your accessory, be sure to push it as far forward as it will go in the rail slots before clamping to prevent movement during recoil.

 

[42769vette]

You can put the clamps on whichever side you prefer. When mounting your accessory, be sure to push it as far forward as it will go in the rail slots before clamping to prevent movement during recoil.

Actually that depends on the rings used, some rings require the bolts to be on the left side of the rifle. No ring that Im aware of require bolts on the right side, so I always put my bolts on the left so I dont have to pay attention to what kind of ring it is.

 

[Thegeek]

Actually that depends on the rings used, some rings require the bolts to be on the left side of the rifle. No ring that Im aware of require bolts on the right side, so I always put my bolts on the left so I dont have to pay attention to what kind of ring it is.

Very interesting. I've always put the faster on the right side because it was comfortable while working. Since the rails are symmetrical, I'm interested to know why some would need to be on the left. Have an example of a required one so I can read up?

 

[42769vette]

Very interesting. I've always put the faster on the right side because it was comfortable while working. Since the rails are symmetrical, I'm interested to know why some would need to be on the left. Have an example of a required one so I can read up?

If you look at the clamping bold (bolt that runs through the bottom of the ring) some have 2 flat sides. Those are fine either way, some have 1 flat, and 1 rounded side. Those need the bolts on the left side so the flat spot sits firm against the lug of the rail when you push it forward. I dont know of any pics on the net that show the clamping bolt, but if you look at the bottom of the ring before install you will see it. One specific example is the Vortex tactical rings, but there are many other's. For me its easier to just easier to get in the habit of using the left side over remembering to check, but I can see where someone who doesnt mount many scopes (hand full a year) it might be easier to check.

It should also be noted if you do have one that requires left bolt, and you did right bolt 9 times out of 10 you will be fine, but people dont bring me stuff, or buy from me for 9 out of 10 odds.

 

[seedubs1]

Putting the bolts on the left side also keeps them out of your way when operating your bolt (or action if you've got a charging lever on the right).

 

[Thegeek]

If you look at the clamping bold (bolt that runs through the bottom of the ring) some have 2 flat sides. Those are fine either way, some have 1 flat, and 1 rounded side. Those need the bolts on the left side so the flat spot sits firm against the lug of the rail when you push it forward. I dont know of any pics on the net that show the clamping bolt, but if you look at the bottom of the ring before install you will see it. One specific example is the Vortex tactical rings, but there are many other's. For me its easier to just easier to get in the habit of using the left side over remembering to check, but I can see where someone who doesnt mount many scopes (hand full a year) it might be easier to check.

It should also be noted if you do have one that requires left bolt, and you did right bolt 9 times out of 10 you will be fine, but people dont bring me stuff, or buy from me for 9 out of 10 odds.

If I'm understanding you correctly, when the bolt acts as the "key" for the rail and has one flat side, you want the flat towards the target. Is that so it has good purchase to prevent recoil from moving things forward on the rail? Looking at the tactical rings, what looks like a thumbscrew in the picture is in reality just a nut, correct?

 

[42769vette]

If I'm understanding you correctly, when the bolt acts as the "key" for the rail and has one flat side, you want the flat towards the target. Is that so it has good purchase to prevent recoil from moving things forward on the rail? Looking at the tactical rings, what looks like a thumbscrew in the picture is in reality just a nut, correct?

Yes what looks like a thumbscrew is really just a 1/2 inch nut. You always want to push rings towards the target when mounting. You want the mating surface to be flat on flat. Round of flat normally works, but its you have more surface area with flat on flat. Again, this is not one of those things if you do it wrong, it WILL NOT work, its one of those things "anything worth doing is worth doing right, even if it only makes it a couple percent better.

 

[Thegeek]

Thanks for the education! The rings I purchased from you for my AS rifles had little (I'm assuming stainless) keys that were flat on both sides. Only thing I didn't do was apply forward pressure before snugging them down. Easy fix! I am a little surprised that you wouldn't want one forward and one backward to prevent creep in either direction. I wonder how much thermal expansion would play a part too. As the receiver gets hot, the scope tube stays constant. With both rings forward, it would want to drag the forward ring to the rear.

 

[42769vette]

Thanks for the education! The rings I purchased from you for my AS rifles had little (I'm assuming stainless) keys that were flat on both sides. Only thing I didn't do was apply forward pressure before snugging them down. Easy fix! I am a little surprised that you wouldn't want one forward and one backward to prevent creep in either direction. I wonder how much thermal expansion would play a part too. As the receiver gets hot, the scope tube stays constant. With both rings forward, it would want to drag the forward ring to the rear.

People have said for years you cant use aluminum base with steel rings due to thermal expansion rates being different. I guess that make sense in theory, but in the real world, I've done it thousands of times with out having 1 single issue.

To seat the rings fully forward remember you will have to loosen the screws that clamp the ring to the scope. If the rings are locked to the scope one of the 2 rings wont slide all the way forward. The rings you have can be mounted either way, but putting the screws on the left all the time is a good habbit to be in.