As with my other posts, my intent is not to start any sort of argument or heated debate. Rather, I want to let other folks see what I have done and learn from both my successes and failures. I’d like to save you some grief, if at all possible! (And maybe entertain you a bit too, as I’m sure many can relate to my experiences.)
I like 1911s and M14s. I have nothing against the other platforms. It’s just that my personal preference leads me to the classic lines and functionality of the 1911 and the M14/M1A.
I’m also a big fan of the “scout rifle” concept as defined by Jeff Cooper. So it’s no surprise that when the Springfield Armory “Squad Scout” rifles first came out several years ago, I ran out and got one.
The rifle has been a solid performer for a long time. With a 2-3/4 Burris scout scope on it, I can get consistent groups off the bench less than 2 MOA with commercial ammo (168 gr). With Portuguese surplus and Radway Green (147 gr), it’s more like 3 to 4 MOA. That’s plenty good for a quick-reaction scope with thick crosshairs.
About a year and a half ago, my bolt disassembled itself during a range session. I found all the pieces, replaced the springs, and all was good for another few months. Then the extractor popped out again.
I contacted Springfield Armory, who provided excellent customer service. I sent them my rifle (They paid for shipping both ways.), and they gave me a brand new bolt & internals, properly fitted to my rifle. Turn-around time was just a few weeks.
I fired about 50 rounds through it, and everything worked great. A little later, a friend of mine who is an expert with M1 Garand and M14 rifles, went to install a “winter safety” for me to try. When we removed the trigger group, we found a broken trigger pin. We replaced the pin, and my friend advised that I go ahead and get a USGI hammer rather than the modern production Springfield Armory, Inc (SAI) piece.
I scoured gunbroker looking for a good price on USGI trigger kits. I intended to install the USGI parts and keep the Springfield parts for spares. I was happy when I found a deal on a set made by TRW (although I would have been happy with HRA as well).
As I was doing some research, I found that I could get an entire USGI parts kit from TreelineM14.com. I figured it couldn’t hurt to have my spare parts be USGI as well. I ordered a parts kit but excluded the stock and barrel. I upgraded to the Sadlak spring guide and TiN coated gas piston. (I really have no idea what observable improvements can be attributed to the TiN coating, but I suppose every little bit helps. Besides, it's a pretty gold color.)
The Springfield parts could be a “spare spare” set.
I noticed that Krieger had just completed a run of medium profile 18.5” barrels. I’ve always liked Krieger barrels for their excellent accuracy. The barrel really is the “heart” of the rifle. So I picked one of those up thinking that I could re-barrel my Squad Scout rifle when I replace the SAI parts with USGI.
Krieger recommended going with the 1:12 twist rifling. According to them, it’s the best for the range of bullets I’d be shooting (focus on 168 gr, but still good for 147 gr milsurp).
I sort of leaped before I looked. When the barrel arrived, I realized that I had forgotten one critical point... the scope mount. The standard Springfield Armory mount is not designed to fit a medium weight barrel.
Fortunately for me, VLTOR had just released the CASV-14 mount that they claimed would fit both standard and medium profile barrels. (Unfortunately, this turned out NOT to be the case. The mount required significant modification by a gunsmith before it worked with my medium barrel. VLTOR assures me that they are working on this issue, but that didn’t really help me at the time of the build.)
One thing that’s bugged me about any scoped M14/M1A (Squad Scout or otherwise) is the need to put a cheek riser on the stock. The velcro or lace-on pads are adequate, but they can sometimes interfere with side-mounted slings. The trouble with the saddle-type cheek pieces is that they don’t reduce down to “zero height”, so it’s difficult to switch to backup iron sights if necessary. Wouldn’t it be nice to have a stock with a built-in cheek riser and built-in side mounted sling swivels? The folks at McMillan were more than happy to oblige with their “M3A Adjustable” stock.
Eventually, I thought to myself, “This ‘remodel’ of my Squad Scout M1A is going to be like a whole new rifle. Wait a minute... if I get a receiver, I actually will have a whole new rifle. I won’t just have spare parts. I’ll have a spare rifle.”
This follows the old adage, “If you put enough spare parts in a box, eventually a new rifle pops out.”
I did some research and ended up with a Fulton Armory receiver. Several companies claim to make a better receiver, but I wasn’t able to convince myself that they were worth 2 to 3 times the price of the Fulton. That’s just me.
I know that’s a long story. But if you’ve made it this far, you’re probably wondering how the finished product ended up. The rifle is now bedded and broken in.
In summary, here were my goals for the rifle:
I think I ended up hitting all of my goals. I would have preferred it a tad shorter and a tad lighter than it is. However, it’s certainly not as heavy as M14s I’ve seen with Sage stocks. (It's 13 pounds all decked out (unloaded). A stock M1A Squad Scout is 11.5 pounds. That pound and a half is the "price" you pay for a medium barrel, an adjustable stock, and the VLTOR mount.)
I wish it looked more like an original M14 with wood stock, low profile handguard, etc. But I think the extra performance is worth it.
So here is the little green monster as it sits now:
Krieger 18.5” Stainless Steel 1:12 twist M14 barrel, medium weight “USMC profile”
Fulton Armory receiver
TRW parts kit from TreelineM14.com
VLTOR CASV-14 scope mount (would probably look for a different option next time) One nice thing was that the mount allows for the attachment of push-button sling swivels.
McMillan M3A Stock
Vortex flash hider (Available at Midway USA and Brownell’s.) I prefer the look of the USGI, but the Vortex technology is certainly better at hiding muzzle flash.
For the scope, I went with a Leatherwood/Hi-Lux 2-7x Scout Scope. It was $125 on sale, so it was worth the risk. It turns out to work surprisingly well. It has longer eye relief than the Leupold VX-II variable scout scope (from the custom shop) and it’s about a third the price. When mounted in low Leupold quick-release (QRW) rings, I had to shim the front in order to get enough elevation. But with that, I’ve been able to zero at 100 and still have enough room to “dial up” to 700 yards.
I did most of the barrel break-in using an old USGI stock I had lying around. Initial group sizes (before the bedding and break-in) were around 1.5 MOA.
The break-in process was very interesting. Near the beginning, the rifle would tend to string shots. After bedding in the McMillan stock, the pattern became a circle with a diameter just a hair greater than 1 MOA (see below @ 100 yards).
Once I reached the 200-round mark, the group tightened significantly. Sub-MOA. Usually right at 1/2 MOA with Federal American Eagle OTM 168 gr. Not bad for a gas-operated gun.
At 300 yards, the accuracy was deemed “acceptable”. Two shots on an 8-inch plate below. The scout scope was set at 7x. If I could see it, I could hit it. That’s a good feeling to have.
By changing elevation, I was able to consistently hit 12” steel at 400 yards, 18” steel at 500 yards, and 18” steel at 600 yards. I made two hits at 700 yards, but those were my last two rounds of OTM ammo. I won’t claim “consistent” until I hit three in a row.
When I get the chance, I’ll go back out and try for 700 and 800. I could see out to 1000 with the scope, but at that range, the crosshairs look mighty thick compared to the targets.
Hopefully you've found this interesting and entertaining. And if you're looking to build an M14/M1A of your own, maybe this will post help you out a little.
Note: I call my rifle an "M14" because Springfield Armory owns the "M1A" name, and this rifle has no Springfield Armory parts in it.
I like 1911s and M14s. I have nothing against the other platforms. It’s just that my personal preference leads me to the classic lines and functionality of the 1911 and the M14/M1A.
I’m also a big fan of the “scout rifle” concept as defined by Jeff Cooper. So it’s no surprise that when the Springfield Armory “Squad Scout” rifles first came out several years ago, I ran out and got one.
The rifle has been a solid performer for a long time. With a 2-3/4 Burris scout scope on it, I can get consistent groups off the bench less than 2 MOA with commercial ammo (168 gr). With Portuguese surplus and Radway Green (147 gr), it’s more like 3 to 4 MOA. That’s plenty good for a quick-reaction scope with thick crosshairs.
About a year and a half ago, my bolt disassembled itself during a range session. I found all the pieces, replaced the springs, and all was good for another few months. Then the extractor popped out again.
I contacted Springfield Armory, who provided excellent customer service. I sent them my rifle (They paid for shipping both ways.), and they gave me a brand new bolt & internals, properly fitted to my rifle. Turn-around time was just a few weeks.
I fired about 50 rounds through it, and everything worked great. A little later, a friend of mine who is an expert with M1 Garand and M14 rifles, went to install a “winter safety” for me to try. When we removed the trigger group, we found a broken trigger pin. We replaced the pin, and my friend advised that I go ahead and get a USGI hammer rather than the modern production Springfield Armory, Inc (SAI) piece.
I scoured gunbroker looking for a good price on USGI trigger kits. I intended to install the USGI parts and keep the Springfield parts for spares. I was happy when I found a deal on a set made by TRW (although I would have been happy with HRA as well).
As I was doing some research, I found that I could get an entire USGI parts kit from TreelineM14.com. I figured it couldn’t hurt to have my spare parts be USGI as well. I ordered a parts kit but excluded the stock and barrel. I upgraded to the Sadlak spring guide and TiN coated gas piston. (I really have no idea what observable improvements can be attributed to the TiN coating, but I suppose every little bit helps. Besides, it's a pretty gold color.)
The Springfield parts could be a “spare spare” set.
I noticed that Krieger had just completed a run of medium profile 18.5” barrels. I’ve always liked Krieger barrels for their excellent accuracy. The barrel really is the “heart” of the rifle. So I picked one of those up thinking that I could re-barrel my Squad Scout rifle when I replace the SAI parts with USGI.
Krieger recommended going with the 1:12 twist rifling. According to them, it’s the best for the range of bullets I’d be shooting (focus on 168 gr, but still good for 147 gr milsurp).
I sort of leaped before I looked. When the barrel arrived, I realized that I had forgotten one critical point... the scope mount. The standard Springfield Armory mount is not designed to fit a medium weight barrel.
Fortunately for me, VLTOR had just released the CASV-14 mount that they claimed would fit both standard and medium profile barrels. (Unfortunately, this turned out NOT to be the case. The mount required significant modification by a gunsmith before it worked with my medium barrel. VLTOR assures me that they are working on this issue, but that didn’t really help me at the time of the build.)
One thing that’s bugged me about any scoped M14/M1A (Squad Scout or otherwise) is the need to put a cheek riser on the stock. The velcro or lace-on pads are adequate, but they can sometimes interfere with side-mounted slings. The trouble with the saddle-type cheek pieces is that they don’t reduce down to “zero height”, so it’s difficult to switch to backup iron sights if necessary. Wouldn’t it be nice to have a stock with a built-in cheek riser and built-in side mounted sling swivels? The folks at McMillan were more than happy to oblige with their “M3A Adjustable” stock.
Eventually, I thought to myself, “This ‘remodel’ of my Squad Scout M1A is going to be like a whole new rifle. Wait a minute... if I get a receiver, I actually will have a whole new rifle. I won’t just have spare parts. I’ll have a spare rifle.”
This follows the old adage, “If you put enough spare parts in a box, eventually a new rifle pops out.”
I did some research and ended up with a Fulton Armory receiver. Several companies claim to make a better receiver, but I wasn’t able to convince myself that they were worth 2 to 3 times the price of the Fulton. That’s just me.
I know that’s a long story. But if you’ve made it this far, you’re probably wondering how the finished product ended up. The rifle is now bedded and broken in.
In summary, here were my goals for the rifle:
-A handy rifle, less than 40 inches long (would prefer 36”, but ended up right at 40”)
-.308 caliber, Magazine fed
-Parts standard and readily available
-Quick reaction sighting system for snap shots (forward-mounted scout scope)
-Able to go out past 500 yards if I find a rest (with my Springfield Squad Scout, I get a practical 2-2.5 MOA at 500 yards with an old 2-3/4 Burris scout scope, so I’d like to do better than that)
-Back-up Iron Sights
-Very Reliable
-.308 caliber, Magazine fed
-Parts standard and readily available
-Quick reaction sighting system for snap shots (forward-mounted scout scope)
-Able to go out past 500 yards if I find a rest (with my Springfield Squad Scout, I get a practical 2-2.5 MOA at 500 yards with an old 2-3/4 Burris scout scope, so I’d like to do better than that)
-Back-up Iron Sights
-Very Reliable
-Not a “door kicker”
-Not a “sniper rifle”
-More of a “battle rifle” or “rifleman’s rifle”.
-The idea is to have something effective from close in out to 700+ yards
-Not a “sniper rifle”
-More of a “battle rifle” or “rifleman’s rifle”.
-The idea is to have something effective from close in out to 700+ yards
I think I ended up hitting all of my goals. I would have preferred it a tad shorter and a tad lighter than it is. However, it’s certainly not as heavy as M14s I’ve seen with Sage stocks. (It's 13 pounds all decked out (unloaded). A stock M1A Squad Scout is 11.5 pounds. That pound and a half is the "price" you pay for a medium barrel, an adjustable stock, and the VLTOR mount.)
I wish it looked more like an original M14 with wood stock, low profile handguard, etc. But I think the extra performance is worth it.
So here is the little green monster as it sits now:
Krieger 18.5” Stainless Steel 1:12 twist M14 barrel, medium weight “USMC profile”
Fulton Armory receiver
TRW parts kit from TreelineM14.com
Sadlak spring guide
Sadlak TiN gas piston
Wolff Springs (included in the kit)
Sadlak TiN gas piston
Wolff Springs (included in the kit)
VLTOR CASV-14 scope mount (would probably look for a different option next time) One nice thing was that the mount allows for the attachment of push-button sling swivels.
McMillan M3A Stock
Adjustable cheekpiece
Spacer system
3 Sling Studs
Flush mount cups on each side of stock
33% Medium Brown, 33% Woodland Beige, 33% Olive Drab
I haven't re-touched any of the photos. You can see how the stock appears different colors in different lighting.
Spacer system
3 Sling Studs
Flush mount cups on each side of stock
33% Medium Brown, 33% Woodland Beige, 33% Olive Drab
I haven't re-touched any of the photos. You can see how the stock appears different colors in different lighting.
Vortex flash hider (Available at Midway USA and Brownell’s.) I prefer the look of the USGI, but the Vortex technology is certainly better at hiding muzzle flash.
For the scope, I went with a Leatherwood/Hi-Lux 2-7x Scout Scope. It was $125 on sale, so it was worth the risk. It turns out to work surprisingly well. It has longer eye relief than the Leupold VX-II variable scout scope (from the custom shop) and it’s about a third the price. When mounted in low Leupold quick-release (QRW) rings, I had to shim the front in order to get enough elevation. But with that, I’ve been able to zero at 100 and still have enough room to “dial up” to 700 yards.
I did most of the barrel break-in using an old USGI stock I had lying around. Initial group sizes (before the bedding and break-in) were around 1.5 MOA.
The break-in process was very interesting. Near the beginning, the rifle would tend to string shots. After bedding in the McMillan stock, the pattern became a circle with a diameter just a hair greater than 1 MOA (see below @ 100 yards).
Once I reached the 200-round mark, the group tightened significantly. Sub-MOA. Usually right at 1/2 MOA with Federal American Eagle OTM 168 gr. Not bad for a gas-operated gun.
At 300 yards, the accuracy was deemed “acceptable”. Two shots on an 8-inch plate below. The scout scope was set at 7x. If I could see it, I could hit it. That’s a good feeling to have.
By changing elevation, I was able to consistently hit 12” steel at 400 yards, 18” steel at 500 yards, and 18” steel at 600 yards. I made two hits at 700 yards, but those were my last two rounds of OTM ammo. I won’t claim “consistent” until I hit three in a row.
When I get the chance, I’ll go back out and try for 700 and 800. I could see out to 1000 with the scope, but at that range, the crosshairs look mighty thick compared to the targets.
Hopefully you've found this interesting and entertaining. And if you're looking to build an M14/M1A of your own, maybe this will post help you out a little.
Note: I call my rifle an "M14" because Springfield Armory owns the "M1A" name, and this rifle has no Springfield Armory parts in it.
