Is this ammo corrosive?

[irishomerican21]

Hello,

Can someone tell me if this ammunition is corrosive? I don’t know too much about this ammo. I believe it is Egyptian. I have ran a few boxes through my kar98 and have obviously cleaned it thoroughly each time.

Thank you in advance!

 

[DoggyDaddy]

Yes it is.

 

[Leo]

When I am in doubt, I always just assume it is. I clean the gun after use like a muzzle loader, and re oil after a soap and water scrub. 5 extra minutes at the cleaning bench saves a lot of corrosion later.

 

[2in1evtime]

Well it is corrosive, berdan primed, and it is NOT egyptian it is considered Yugoslavian , if it was middle eastern ammo it probably wouldn't go bang as that was stored in desert heat and powder-primers don't like excessive heat in storage. I have pulled hundreds of middle eastern bullets because they didn't go bang.

 

[DoggyDaddy]

Well it is corrosive, berdan primed, and it is NOT egyptian it is considered Yugoslavian , if it was middle eastern ammo it probably wouldn't go bang as that was stored in desert heat and powder-primers don't like excessive heat in storage. I have pulled hundreds of middle eastern bullets because they didn't go bang.

I thought it looked like Yugo, but I was too lazy to go check my stash to verify.

 

[johntheplinker]

I can confirm that yes, it is Yugoslavian and corrosive.

 

[Greffy]

Yes, Yugoslavian ammo. The 11 numbered product was made by Privi Partizan factory, and the 12 numbered ammo is made by the Igman Zavod factory. For sure corrosive.

 

[iceberg]

When I am in doubt, I always just assume it is. I clean the gun after use like a muzzle loader, and re oil after a soap and water scrub. 5 extra minutes at the cleaning bench saves a lot of corrosion later.

So simple soap/water cleaning is good enough? Don't need amonia type cleaner? I'm asking cause I made the huge, noob mistake by not properly cleaning my mosin years ago and that thing rusted so bad. I scrubbed and scrub that thing so bad the rust and pitting never came out. I love the gun so much that I greased it up and it sat in storage for 3 years. I love the gun so much that I kept it. then I got the guts to take it out and give it a try last year after a bunch of cleaning. Sure enough the guns fine! I have no idea if the accuracy degraded because that was my first rifle and I wasn't a very good shooter back then and I'm a lot better now so it's good as far as I'm concerned! Obviously though I'm a lot more careful about how I take care of it. Matter of fact... I'm bout to go clean it and oil it up just because I love it. It's been sitting in the safe for a few months...I think it's time for a conjugal visit

 

[Tactically Fat]

So simple soap/water cleaning is good enough? Don't need amonia type cleaner? I'm asking cause I made the huge, noob mistake by not properly cleaning my mosin years ago and that thing rusted so bad. I scrubbed and scrub that thing so bad the rust and pitting never came out. I love the gun so much that I greased it up and it sat in storage for 3 years. I love the gun so much that I kept it. then I got the guts to take it out and give it a try last year after a bunch of cleaning. Sure enough the guns fine! I have no idea if the accuracy degraded because that was my first rifle and I wasn't a very good shooter back then and I'm a lot better now so it's good as far as I'm concerned! Obviously though I'm a lot more careful about how I take care of it. Matter of fact... I'm bout to go clean it and oil it up just because I love it. It's been sitting in the safe for a few months...I think it's time for a conjugal visit

Water is what you want. Utilizing ammonia, or the old Internet trope of Windex is...totally unnecessary.

Will it work? Yes. Why? Because those things are mostly water.

The corrosive salts that form are HIGHLY soluble in water; not so much soluble in ammonia.

The trick is to get dissolved what you can dissolve, and then to flush out what you cannot + the dissolved substances before they can re-deposit.

To reiterate: water, water, water, and also some water. Add a bit of detergent if you want - that may help get the water into tiny spots where water's natural surface tension won't allow it to go very easily.

But wait, there's more!! NOW you have to worry about getting rid of the water. SOME people use super hot / boiling water. A) this can aid in dissolving salts. B ) it also heats the metal which will then help in drying said metal.

Compressed air to blow out tight spaces is your friend. A thorough wipe-down with a corrosion protectant is your friend. A thorough lubrication after the firearm is totally dry is definitely your friend.

But using ammonia and/or Windex is just an expensive and unnecessary way to get water to do the work. Use plain water.

 

[Leo]

I am with tactically fat. I never really worried about ammonia. Ammonia based products like Sweets 7.62 does eat brass and copper out of a badly fouled barrel, but I always clean the corrosion and lube after using it.

A little soap in some warm water is all I used. (a few thin slivers off of a bar of Dial soap is enought) Maybe 16 0unces on a .30 cal barrel. A sponge in a bucket, push the muzzle on the sponge, fill the barrel, wait a minute, lift the barrel to drain. Three or for times with soap, three of 4 times without. Run patches through the barrel to dry, A few patches of Hoppes or light oil, and a few more dry ones. Compressed air is nice if you have it.

I really don't claim mine is the only method, or even the best, but it has worked for 45 years on muzzle loaders and surplus military arms. Good Luck

 

[johntheplinker]

Water is what you want. Utilizing ammonia, or the old Internet trope of Windex is...totally unnecessary.

Will it work? Yes. Why? Because those things are mostly water.

The corrosive salts that form are HIGHLY soluble in water; not so much soluble in ammonia.

The trick is to get dissolved what you can dissolve, and then to flush out what you cannot + the dissolved substances before they can re-deposit.

To reiterate: water, water, water, and also some water. Add a bit of detergent if you want - that may help get the water into tiny spots where water's natural surface tension won't allow it to go very easily.

But wait, there's more!! NOW you have to worry about getting rid of the water. SOME people use super hot / boiling water. A) this can aid in dissolving salts. B ) it also heats the metal which will then help in drying said metal.

Compressed air to blow out tight spaces is your friend. A thorough wipe-down with a corrosion protectant is your friend. A thorough lubrication after the firearm is totally dry is definitely your friend.

But using ammonia and/or Windex is just an expensive and unnecessary way to get water to do the work. Use plain water.

This is exactly right. Back in ye olden days they used an ammonia solution to clean their rifles. The ammonia wasn't for the primers, it was because the early jacketed bullets were notorious foulers. So they came up with an ammonia (along with other nasty chemicals) solution to clean everything out in one go.

 

[iceberg]

Water is what you want. Utilizing ammonia, or the old Internet trope of Windex is...totally unnecessary.

Will it work? Yes. Why? Because those things are mostly water.

The corrosive salts that form are HIGHLY soluble in water; not so much soluble in ammonia.

The trick is to get dissolved what you can dissolve, and then to flush out what you cannot + the dissolved substances before they can re-deposit.

To reiterate: water, water, water, and also some water. Add a bit of detergent if you want - that may help get the water into tiny spots where water's natural surface tension won't allow it to go very easily.

But wait, there's more!! NOW you have to worry about getting rid of the water. SOME people use super hot / boiling water. A) this can aid in dissolving salts. B ) it also heats the metal which will then help in drying said metal.

Compressed air to blow out tight spaces is your friend. A thorough wipe-down with a corrosion protectant is your friend. A thorough lubrication after the firearm is totally dry is definitely your friend.

But using ammonia and/or Windex is just an expensive and unnecessary way to get water to do the work. Use plain water.

Wow, thanks!

 

[johntheplinker]

Water is what you want. Utilizing ammonia, or the old Internet trope of Windex is...totally unnecessary.

Will it work? Yes. Why? Because those things are mostly water.

The corrosive salts that form are HIGHLY soluble in water; not so much soluble in ammonia.

The trick is to get dissolved what you can dissolve, and then to flush out what you cannot + the dissolved substances before they can re-deposit.

To reiterate: water, water, water, and also some water. Add a bit of detergent if you want - that may help get the water into tiny spots where water's natural surface tension won't allow it to go very easily.

But wait, there's more!! NOW you have to worry about getting rid of the water. SOME people use super hot / boiling water. A) this can aid in dissolving salts. B ) it also heats the metal which will then help in drying said metal.

Compressed air to blow out tight spaces is your friend. A thorough wipe-down with a corrosion protectant is your friend. A thorough lubrication after the firearm is totally dry is definitely your friend.

But using ammonia and/or Windex is just an expensive and unnecessary way to get water to do the work. Use plain water.

Oh, yes, one more bit of chemistry. TF says the salts are HIGHLY soluble in water. To be a little more precise, about 50 times more in water as opposed to ammonia.