Fix It Sticks

[mcapo]

I have become a huge fan of these products but the below 700 bolt tool is frickin' genius....

 

[MindfulMan]

I have become a huge fan of these products but the below 700 bolt tool is frickin' genius....

View attachment 146091

Curse you, Bandit .....now, I have to buy a Remington 700, just so I can buy and use that spiffy tool !
It's a sickness, I tell ya !

 

[mcapo]

Curse you, Bandit .....now, I have to buy a Remington 700, just so I can buy and use that spiffy tool !
It's a sickness, I tell ya !

No one wins until we ALL have every cool thing to come along.

 

[gmcttr]

Used my Fix It Sticks All-in-One Torque Driver last night to torque the action screws in my Bergara to 55 in/lb. Turned the t-handle sideways to make it extra easy. Me likey.

 

[JEBland]

For the folks who have these, do you typically use the fixed torque limiters (e.g. one of these small fixed torque limiters) or the ranged torque-reading drivers (e.g. the small non-fixed torque drivers)?

My instinct is to just get the non-fixed version and read on the dial.
Edit: I followed my instinct on this. Will try to remember to add to this with my experience once I use them.

 

[Gabriel]

For the folks who have these, do you typically use the fixed torque limiters (e.g. one of these small fixed torque limiters) or the ranged torque-reading drivers (e.g. the small non-fixed torque drivers)?

My instinct is to just get the non-fixed version and read on the dial.
Edit: I followed my instinct on this. Will try to remember to add to this with my experience once I use them.

I bought mine before they had the ranged limiter. They are nice as long as the torque specs on the rings/bases/whatever match the fixed limiters you have... which is becoming less and less the case. I may get the ranged limiter one of these days, but I have a few other inch-lb torque wrnches, so it's not urgent. I do use the heck out of the other parts of the kit, though. If you add the right bits and have the correct torque limiters, it's such a small kit for what you can do with it.

 

[JeepHammer]

We were issued 'T' handle torque wrenches with precision rifles in the military.
By reproducing the torque each time between action & stock, shooting scores got better.

Like the fat handle Wheeler, I still use torque wrenches, one more variable you take off the table when assembling.

 

[T-DOGG]

For the folks who have these, do you typically use the fixed torque limiters (e.g. one of these small fixed torque limiters) or the ranged torque-reading drivers (e.g. the small non-fixed torque drivers)?

My instinct is to just get the non-fixed version and read on the dial.
Edit: I followed my instinct on this. Will try to remember to add to this with my experience once I use them.

I was reluctant at first, but I've found to really like the non fixed version. Since I've purchased mine, I don't think I've used my Wheeler FAT wrench.

 

[JEBland]

I bought mine before they had the ranged limiter. They are nice as long as the torque specs on the rings/bases/whatever match the fixed limiters you have... which is becoming less and less the case. I may get the ranged limiter one of these days, but I have a few other inch-lb torque wrnches, so it's not urgent. I do use the heck out of the other parts of the kit, though. If you add the right bits and have the correct torque limiters, it's such a small kit for what you can do with it.

I have a Chapman set from which I think the bits will also fit into the Fix It Sticks. If they play well, it should be a pretty useful combination.

[...] one more variable you take off the table when assembling.

I'm still learning the ropes, but I'm hopeful that this set will help me get stuff together more reliably. I embarassingly had an optic come loose last whitetail season, costing me a decently sized doe.

I was reluctant at first, but I've found to really like the non fixed version. Since I've purchased mine, I don't think I've used my Wheeler FAT wrench.

Today was the day I finally sat down and decided to order one or the other. It's a bit more than the FAT wrench, but the reviews seem favorable, and I'd rather buy Taiwanese than Chinese manufacturing. I'm excited to get it in and be able to actually torque to spec.

 

[JeepHammer]

They make some very weak thread locker, and that's a big deal on FINAL assembly.

The 'Blue' thread locker is too much for a lot of tiny screws (like optics mounts), so you might want to look into alcohol for cleaning holes/screws, and the weak thread locker.

Don't make the mistake of trying to 'Close' clamshell (2 piece) optics clamps.
There is supposed to be a gap between halves.

Overtightened will oval the optics tubes.
I have to demonstrate this once in a while with a micrometer to customers.
There is a reason there is a torque specification on the screws most times (on better quality clamps) and it's to keep from stretching screws & ovaling tubes.

No shortage of bent and ovaled tubes out there...
Lapping the rings once installed on the firearm helps a bunch.
Getting the rings dead straight with each other is a big deal, and when they are offset from each other, the tube gets bent.
Bent tubes never work correctly, you might get a stable zero at one distance (range) but it won't function correctly in a bind, and the bind is always through the mechanicals between rings.
Oval is from overtightened clamps.

The military graphically demonstrated to us the torque wrench was there for a reason...
We shot with hand tightened, then we shot with torqued, and almost all of us did better, more consistant with torqued.

If you have wood or synthetic without metal frame/pillars then you are supposed to loosen the screws when not in use.
The jury is out on metal through pillars or metal frames.
We had issues with cold zero shift, even with metal frames in the stock.
The working theory is the metal expands & contracts as temp changes, and that sounds pretty solid.
Re-Torque and it came pretty well back to zero.

According to the gunsmith gurus and wood stocks, this keeps humidity, temp, etc from warping and stretching/loosing around screws.
It works as far as I know, and all of us had to qualify at 1,000 yards.

I'm not sure it's a requirement if it's a hunting rifle shooting 150 yards and only has to shoot 'Minute Of Deer Heart' groups,
But my long shooters I still leave a torque wrench in the case so I can torque before shooting.

 

[JEBland]

Thank you for the wealth of information. It's a lot to take in, so I'll just comment on the last bit for my "practical" shooting.

It works as far as I know, and all of us had to qualify at 1,000 yards.

I'm not sure it's a requirement if it's a hunting rifle shooting 150 yards and only has to shoot 'Minute Of Deer Heart' groups,
But my long shooters I still leave a torque wrench in the case so I can torque before shooting.

I don't think I've ever shot past 200 yards, to be honest (even on a bench). The way I hunt, I don't use stands and typically take game while walking in the hills of WV, so if everything it torqued to spec before the season, my ability to hold still is likely a much bigger variable than humidity/temperature caused deviations in the gun's zero. That said, I would like the get the gun as good on the bench as I can before hitting the woods. Thanks again for the comments.

 

[JeepHammer]

Thank you for the wealth of information. It's a lot to take in, so I'll just comment on the last bit for my "practical" shooting.


I don't think I've ever shot past 200 yards, to be honest (even on a bench). The way I hunt, I don't use stands and typically take game while walking in the hills of WV, so if everything it torqued to spec before the season, my ability to hold still is likely a much bigger variable than humidity/temperature caused deviations in the gun's zero. That said, I would like the get the gun as good on the bench as I can before hitting the woods. Thanks again for the comments.

It's just information, use what applies to you.

You can go low tech also.
Fingernail polish remover & fingernail polish for cleaner & thread locker,
A fine strand of nylon fishing line or thread wrapped in threads works as thread locker also.

The good old fashioned bubble (spirit) level on the receiver,
And a plumb line/weight to adjust the reticle when mounting the optic.

Gravity always works the same way, so bore sight the plumb line so you know the barrel is centered,
Then adjust optic vertical line to align with plumb line.
So your optic is square/plumb over the barrel bore.

Must don't forget to run your optic adjustments limit to limit (up & down, right & left) so you can find center of the tube!
The reticle needs to be center of the tube when you mount an optic true with bore...

Some guys use lasers, but a laser won't plumb your optic over the bore...
Simple still works better than technology sometimes.

The devil is in the details, centering the reticle, plumb lines, round/true rings aligned with the bore, these are details that people either don't think of, or take it the manufacturer produced something that was square & true (which way too often they don't).

I use a 1" (or 30mm) aluminum bar with an 1/8" hole drilled center, end to end.
Put that in the rings,
Have the customer close their eyes, shoulder the rifle, get a cheek weld,
And then open their eyes...

Watch carefully to see which way they move their head to find the center of the bar in the rings.
Since moving the head breaks NATURAL cheek weld on the stock...
This tells me if they need shorter or taller rings, pads in the stock to raise their cheek/eye, if the stock needs to be built up or relieved to move cheek/eye right or left.

When the optic is installed, I watch for the customer to move forward/backward on the optic to get a full, clear sight picture.
This tells me if the optic needs to be moved for natural focus.
Everyone has different eyes, so I try to mount so it fits naturally, no messing about to find sight picture.

Just some info that might help if you are the tinkering type.

 

[mcapo]

For the Fix-it-Stick fan that thinks they have everything:

 

[natdscott]

For the professional:

CDI 751LDIN 1/4 In Dr Dial Type 0-75 In/Lb Torque Wrench

CDI 751LDIN 1/4 In Dr Dial Type 0-75 In/Lb Torque Wrench

www.toolsource.com

 

[mcapo]

For the professional:

CDI 751LDIN 1/4 In Dr Dial Type 0-75 In/Lb Torque Wrench

CDI 751LDIN 1/4 In Dr Dial Type 0-75 In/Lb Torque Wrench

www.toolsource.com

If I could be a professional for $155, I’m in! Even my wife would be impressed. Lol

 

[Flytj]

When did these start to be called "fix it sticks"? Someone just the other day asked me if I used them... Im like - I have no idea what you are talking about. He showed me, and I was like - yeah, I have a couple of sets. When he asked me what I called them - I really didnt have a good answer for him!

 

[bwframe]

I bought the Enhanced All-In-One Torque Limiter Bit Driver Kit.




I dedicated a small piers to the back of the kit as I have difficulty pinching the bits out of the case and out of the tool.




I like the kit, but second use I found it was missing the correct Allen wrench size for a screw on my Benjamin Marauder. I went through all of the sizes twice, thinking it odd that a really popular air gun would have some bastard sized screw head, for the most important screw on the gun? I tried another multi bit set and had no joy either.

I ended up using a torx bit to tighten the allen screw. It felt good to tighten the screw and there was no slipping or stripping. Is it bad to count on a torx to tighten an appropriately sized Allen head screw?



.

 

[TJ Kackowski]

You B******S did it to me again ... had some extra Cabela's cash and gift cards from the Holidays so guess what found its way into my range bag? Yeah, the All-In-One Torque Driver set with an add on Mini All-in-One Touque Driver to replace the 1/2" socket. Who knew Cabela's carried Fix-It-Sticks.



BTW, these things are WONDERFUL! So, thanks (I guess) for leading me astray.

 

[marvin02]

I had the Wheeler 43 piece set:



So I added this stubby handle:



And a mini torque driver:

Mini All-In-One Torque Driver | Fix It Sticks

Fix It Sticks' Mini All-in-One Torque Driver will become your go-to for tightening scope rings and more to the torque value you need, from 6-25 in-lbs.

store.fixitsticks.com

The stubby handle and mini torque driver fit in the empty hole in the Wheeler box

I love the mini torque driver, it works for most of my gun related needs. I've got a Wheeler Fat Wrench and an inch pound torque wrench for stuff that needs more torque.

 

[bwframe]

I bought the Enhanced All-In-One Torque Limiter Bit Driver Kit.
<clip pic>
I dedicated a small piers to the back of the kit as I have difficulty pinching the bits out of the case and out of the tool.
<clip pic>
I like the kit, but second use I found it was missing the correct Allen wrench size for a screw on my Benjamin Marauder. I went through all of the sizes twice, thinking it odd that a really popular air gun would have some bastard sized screw head, for the most important screw on the gun? I tried another multi bit set and had no joy either.

I ended up using a torx bit to tighten the allen screw. It felt good to tighten the screw and there was no slipping or stripping. Is it bad to count on a torx to tighten an appropriately sized Allen head screw?



.

Still experimenting with the additional space in the kit. I changed out the tiny piers for a Knipex Cobra, thinking it will be a bit more versatile, while still able to grip bits out of holders and the tool?

Working on a non gun thing, I discovered a need for something separate to pry a plastic battery lid off. After initially putting a small pocket screwdriver in the kit, I found some long shank bits, that again would add versatility.

I may have to take a long bit or 3 out. I put a Fix It Sticks AR bolt cleaner on my Midway order that is on the way. No idea how well it works, but hard to argue with $9, on sale?