AK barrel removal

[AllenM]

I have never done this before. I need to know how hard it is to remove a barrel from an Ak. Specifically a Saiga 308.
I want to pull the barrel, thread it and reinstall same barrel.
What should I know?

 

[kb66]

Take a look at the Dinzag Arms website. They have tools that will let you thread the barrel without removing it. Here is a link to their tools page -

dinzagarms

 

[AllenM]

Thanks for the link, but that wont work in this case. I need to remove the barrel

 

[kb66]

From research I have done, press the barrel pin out from the right side. I normally put an index mark on the bottom of the barrel and trunnion before I press the barrel out just to make it easier to get it back in the original position. Be sure to put a piece of brass or even just a penny on the barrel to keep the press ram from marring it. The link below is a set of tools that are built for the barrel removal and reinstallation, not that I'm pushing these tools specifically, they are good, but the pics is to give you an idea of what to use and how to do it. You can probably make something similar without a lot of effort.

AK-Builder Barrel Press Kit

 

[AllenM]

From research I have done, press the barrel pin out from the right side. I normally put an index mark on the bottom of the barrel and trunnion before I press the barrel out just to make it easier to get it back in the original position. Be sure to put a piece of brass or even just a penny on the barrel to keep the press ram from marring it. The link below is a set of tools that are built for the barrel removal and reinstallation, not that I'm pushing these tools specifically, they are good, but the pics is to give you an idea of what to use and how to do it. You can probably make something similar without a lot of effort.


AK-Builder Barrel Press Kit

Great link,Thank you

 

[TheWabbit]

Here is how I've done it before. There is a penny between the bolt (with a nut for more surface area) and the barrel. I do have the barrel kit now. This will work fine most of the time but bolt did bend eventually. I now have a longer and thicker metal bar when I have the trunnion still in the receiver.

 

[30calmachinegunner]

Sounded like he was wanting to remove the barrel while the trunnion was still in the reciever which presents issues.

 

[TheWabbit]

Sounded like he was wanting to remove the barrel while the trunnion was still in the reciever which presents issues.

Not really. Just use the longer and thick steel rod and line it up against the penny on the barrel chamber and the other end on the top of the rear trunnion. It has to be long enough to clear back of the receiver. You only need to press two or three inches to get the barrel out. I do this all the time when headspacing.

 

[chezuki]

Thanks for the link, but that wont work in this case. I need to remove the barrel

Having threaded a few AK barrels myself using a die and TAT, I'm curious, why do you have to remove the barrel in this case?

 

[IndyGunworks]

probably concentric threading for a suppressor. I wouldn't trust a die to run true enough for a supressor

 

[chezuki]

probably concentric threading for a suppressor. I wouldn't trust a die to run true enough for a supressor

I understand not wanting to risk a baffle strike, but with the TAT it should be fine.

 

[AllenM]

I understand not wanting to risk a baffle strike, but with the TAT it should be fine.

Indygunworks is right I want to make sure it's concentric.
Plus this is not my personal gun, somebody is trusting me with their rifle to do a professional threading job on it. Also there is not enough barrel in front of the front sight so the barrel needs turned down, shortened and recrowned so can move the sight back and re drill for 2 sight pins then threaded
Add all these up and the barrel needs to come off to to the job right

 

[AllenM]

Here is how I've done it before. There is a penny between the bolt (with a nut for more surface area) and the barrel. I do have the barrel kit now. This will work fine most of the time but bolt did bend eventually. I now have a longer and thicker metal bar when I have the trunnion still in the receiver.

Thanks for that, I was debating whether to buy the tool for one job. Not sure I need it though, I have pressed alot of wheel bearings I doubt the barrels are in that tight I just don't know yet.

whats that chances it will mar the finish on the outside of the receiver?

 

[30calmachinegunner]

I must have been unlucky because the few I pushed out were tight and there's not much area on the front to push against, lining it all back up to push it back in wasn't fun either but I'm sure someone here has the secret to that. Re drilling taper pin holes in a part that already has been drilled is a blast too.

 

[chezuki]

Indygunworks is right I want to make sure it's concentric.
Plus this is not my personal gun, somebody is trusting me with their rifle to do a professional threading job on it. Also there is not enough barrel in front of the front sight so the barrel needs turned down, shortened and recrowned so can move the sight back and re drill for 2 sight pins then threaded
Add all these up and the barrel needs to come off to to the job right

Meh. Just Dremel it, it'll be ok.

This is a great example of why you're the professional.

 

[AllenM]

Meh. Just Dremel it, it'll be ok.

This is a great example of why you're the professional.

I hindsight I may have used the "term professional" a little loosly

 

[TheWabbit]

whats that chances it will mar the finish on the outside of the receiver?

If you align everything right and the press doesn't move side to side (mine did until I retightened it with proper tools), the barrel should come right out with minimal effort. The only part of the receiver touching the press is the front edge next to the front trunnion so the sides of the receiver will be fine. If anything doesn't look right or feel right when you start pulling the handle, just back off and recheck.

 

[Clay]

the way Ive done it in the past with an assembled rifle is to first press out the barrel pin, then take a long piece of brass drive rod that is longer than the receiver by 3 or 4", and about 3/4" in diameter. Place one end against the barrel, and then the other end will rest against the rear trunnion and sit at an angle. Take a hammer and knock the barrel out.

There should only be about a 1 thou press on the barrel and this has worked for me, but YMMV.

 

[AllenM]

Thanks again guys.
With such a wealth of knowledge on INGO no point in Goggling gun questions anymore

 

[TheWabbit]

Allen to get it back on, you'll need a T-jig. I built my own but I have the kit jig too. I prefer my design. I added a hole in it so I can put the SAAMI GO gauge in with the bolt and gently pull the handle until it resists. If you use my template, the grey part should be just over 1.5" wide. The holes are the black dots and the red is where the T-jig touches the left side of the trunnion. I taped a small scrap piece behind that part so the T is more level with the bolt heads.