Advice - Break job on Ford Escort

[Jeff]

Will be doing a break job on my son's 97 Ford Escort soon and this will be my first for a Ford. I have done many on GM and Honda products. Any advice before I tackle this job? Thanks.

 

[Crystalship1]

Break = Broken

Brake = Stop

Crystalship1 = Smart As*

 

[Jeff]

Break = Broken

Brake = Stop

Crystalship1 = Smart As*

 

[danielocean03]

Here you go man, PM me with any questions, here's some diagrams you might find useful, I know I do, I love exploded views:

 

[danielocean03]

Torque Specifications/Measurements :

Front Bore 2.120 in Banjo-bolt 16-20 ft.lb Bleeder Screw 53-78 in.lb Caliper Bolts 29-36 ft.lbRear Bore 1.190 in Adjustment Plug 9-12 ft.lb Banjo-bolt 16-20 ft.lb Bleeder Screw 53-78 in.lb Caliper Bolts 33-43 ft.lb Parking Brake Bracket Bolt 14-19 ft.lb

 

[danielocean03]

Instructions for the Front:

REMOVAL

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove the lug nuts and the wheel and tire assembly.

1. Remove the W-spring.

Caliper/Pad Locating Pins

1. Remove the two disc brake caliper locating pins.

1. Remove the M-spring.
2. Remove the front disc brake pads and shims from the disc brake caliper.
3. Push the piston fully back into the caliper bore. WARNING: ASBESTOS HAZARD
   

• • BRAKES MAY CONTAIN ASBESTOS FIBERS. DO NOT BREATHE ASBESTOS DUST. BREATHING ASBESTOS DUST MAY CAUSE ASBESTOSIS AND CANCER.
  • DO NOT CLEAN BRAKE AND CLUTCH ASSEMBLIES BY DRY BRUSHING OR WITH COMPRESSED AIR. DUST AND DIRT FROM BRAKE AND CLUTCH ASSEMBLIES MAY CONTAIN ASBESTOS FIBERS THAT ARE HAZARDOUS TO HEALTH WHEN MADE AIRBORNE

• • .

NOTE:

• If a vacuum suitable for asbestos is not available, clean the brake and clutch assemblies while they are wet. If dust generation is still possible, wear government-approved toxic dust purifying respirators.
• Grinding or sanding on brake linings, pads, rotors, drums, or clutch facings should be done only while using properly exhaust-ventilated equipment.
• OSHA requires areas where asbestos dust generation is possible to be isolated and posted with warning signs. Only technicians performing brake or clutch repair should be present in the area.

1. Clean brake and clutch assemblies with a vacuum cleaner recommended for use with asbestos fibers.
2. Dispose of the vacuum dust and dirt in a sealed bag to prevent dust exposure. Label the bag per OSHA instructions and notify the trash hauler of the bag's contents.
3. Remove the banjo bolt and discard the two copper washers.
4. Remove the two brake caliper bolts and the front disc brake caliper.

INSTALLATION
NOTE: Tighten caliper bolts to 39-43 Nm (29-36 ft.lbs) .
NOTE: Use two new copper washers when installing banjo-bolt.
NOTE: Tighten banjo-bolt to 39-43 Nm (29-36 ft.lbs) .
NOTE: Tighten the lug nuts in the specified sequence to 89-117 Nm (66-86.7 ft.lbs.)

1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
2. Bleed serviced components. See: Hydraulic System\Service and Repair
3. Road test vehicle.

 

[danielocean03]

Instructions for the Rear:

REMOVAL

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove the lug nuts and the wheel and tire assembly.
3. Remove the parking brake bracket bolt and place the bracket and cable aside.

1. Remove the adjuster screw plug.

1. Turn the brake adjuster screw counterclockwise to pull the piston fully inward.
2. Remove the banjo bolt and the brake hose and discard the two copper washers.
3. Remove the lower brake caliper bolt.

Calliper, Rear. M-Springs

1. Remove the (A) brake pads and the two (B) M-springs.
2. Slide the rear disc brake caliper off the rear disc support bracket.

INSTALLATION
NOTE: Tighten the lug nuts in the specified sequence.
NOTE: Tighten the lug nuts to 89-117 Nm (66-86.7 ft.lbs.)
NOTE: Tighten lower brake caliper bolt to 45-59 Nm (33-43 ft.lbs) .
NOTE: Tighten adjuster screw plug to 12-16 Nm (9-12 ft.lbs) .

To install, reverse the removal procedure.

 

[danielocean03]

That ought to get you started in the right direction at least, best of luck!

 

[NWI40cal]

1. Remove the W-spring.

Caliper/Pad Locating Pins

[/qoute]

When you put the M spring back in, bend the middle of the spring (the part in line with the rotor) away from the rotor. Just bend the whole thing up and away a little bit after it's in, you might notice its touching the rotor if not. I fried 2 sets of springs before I figured that one out lol.

Not that the brakes won't do thier job, but you might start with 2 half springs next time if you don't adjust it.

Your new parts kit should be pins, clips for the pins and the M springs. If theres something else in there, I forgot, it's been a year or 2.

Dont be surprised if your pins don't fit exact, I never had a new full set of caliper/pad pins fit right on it.

And the sliding pins might be a pain in the behind, mine were and I always lubed them.

As for my knowledge, I drove a 97 for 4 years+, and did all of my own work.

ALSO! If the check engine light comes on for EGR, check the intake manifold right where the EGR tube goes in at. There was a carbon blockage in there in mine and my friend's escorts, and I didn't discover it until I replaced every part in the system, and my light was still on. It's not in the tube itself, it's in the manifold, and its kind of a pain to properly clean it out. I used a 3" or 4'' deck screw and dug it out.

The current owner has since put another 15-20k on it (around 150 k total) and still runs like a raped ape. (for a stock 2.slow)

 

[Jeff]

Thank you both for the advice and diagrams.

 

[Bubba]

I've never done an Escort, but the Fords I have worked on, you have to be really careful to get the retention springs back into the right place. I once had a spring come loose and shred the dust bellow on a piston. It's not fun when your brakes lock up in residential Gary, btw.

 

[NWI40cal]

It's not fun when your brakes lock up in residential Gary, btw.

Good thing we carry guns just in case.

 

[hotfarmboy1]

Well that made it easy for me, danielocean03 already beat me to posting up all the info, lol. Although I would of just been able to give directions, I don't have access to the ford manuals online anymore.

 

[FordMan08]

And after you real all these intstuction and diagrams and do everything correctly.........they will still squeak. Its a Ford.

 

[hotfarmboy1]

And after you real all these intstuction and diagrams and do everything correctly.........they will still squeak. Its a Ford.

The problem isn't that its a Ford, its that its an Escort.


That being said, my sister has a 99 escort ZX2 that's been pretty good to her. I just prefer my focus

 

[mettle]

Go with Porcelain brakes, I've got them on my Escort wagon and they have lasted a LONG time.

That's my imput. Check the parking brake cables, they rust through on those model cars.

 

[hotfarmboy1]

Go with Porcelain brakes, I've got them on my Escort wagon and they have lasted a LONG time.

That's my imput. Check the parking brake cables, they rust through on those model cars.

Good point we all did forget to mention to check the parking brake cables. I do remember having probs with the parking brakes on my sisters car. The cables were sticking some, I replaced them, and then the right rear brake seemed to not adjust back in after releasing them. It would drag a bit and wear them our real quick. If I didn't have time to pull the rear drum I'd get under there and pry the lever as far as I could so that it would release them more and she'd be ok till I could tear it back apart and do it right.

 

[danielocean03]

Go with Porcelain brakes, I've got them on my Escort wagon and they have lasted a LONG time.

That's my imput. Check the parking brake cables, they rust through on those model cars.

I"m pretty sure you mean ceramic rather than porcelain, I've never heard of porcelain being used in braking components. I agree though, ceramic pads outlast the semi-metallic/OE options offered to you at marginal cost differences at the parts stores.

 

[danielocean03]

Looks as though the site I referred to for the information I posted might require my being logged in to show the pictures I posted...can anyone else see the graphics I posted earlier in this thread?

Jeff, if they are no longer visible for some reason, please send me a PM with your email address and I'll re-send all of the information over to you so you can have it for the brake job.

 

[Jeff]

They seem to have disappeared.