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  • Bugzilla

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    I recycle most all wood. When we tore down the 2 decks that were on the back of the house, I built a 13 x 31 shed with the lumber around a 12 x 30 cement pad that was out back. Had extra pole barn siding from various projects for the roof. Guess I had about $300 in the shed mainly for fasteners. The back side of the shed is where we shoot from as I put a 100’ range on that side of the shed.

    323113DB-70A7-48A7-AC94-B1A179321FB4.jpeg 32260F10-037D-49DA-BB1D-CB8A0C7736A1.jpeg
     

    MindfulMan

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    I recycle most all wood. When we tore down the 2 decks that were on the back of the house, I built a 13 x 31 shed with the lumber around a 12 x 30 cement pad that was out back. Had extra pole barn siding from various projects for the roof. Guess I had about $300 in the shed mainly for fasteners. The back side of the shed is where we shoot from as I put a 100’ range on that side of the shed.

    View attachment 222316 View attachment 222317

    That's EXTRA nice ! :wow:
     

    MRockwell

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    These are right off the machine.
    Cut from Walnut, and a clear finish will be applied, that will make the color pop out.





    View attachment 226046

    I have to get all my shop time in before too long. Once the temps drop to 45*, I shut everything down.
    I'll get things going again in the spring.
    What kind of finish are you planning on using?

    Several years ago, a customer gave me a chunk of spalted buckeye and wanted grips made for a Colt Mustang .380. Making the grips was no problem, but I was stumped on what clearcoat to put on them.

    I called a friend down in KY who I like to call my "finishing guru", and he said to use cyanoacrylate. I was like, Superglue?!?, and he was dead set on it. Said to use Q-tips to apply, let it dry, then sand it smooth. Took me a couple hours to get it where I wanted, but once polished that spalt popped and looked real nice. When I questioned him on why, he said the cyanoacrylate(CA) would wear better than a pre-cat lacquer.

    Those grips were smooth, so I'm not sure how using CA would work for your textured grips.

    I definitely would like to see the finished product. That is a unique pattern, and I'm sure that walnut will Pop when you get finish on it.
     

    Nazgul

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    Near the big river.
    What kind of finish are you planning on using?

    Several years ago, a customer gave me a chunk of spalted buckeye and wanted grips made for a Colt Mustang .380. Making the grips was no problem, but I was stumped on what clearcoat to put on them.

    I called a friend down in KY who I like to call my "finishing guru", and he said to use cyanoacrylate. I was like, Superglue?!?, and he was dead set on it. Said to use Q-tips to apply, let it dry, then sand it smooth. Took me a couple hours to get it where I wanted, but once polished that spalt popped and looked real nice. When I questioned him on why, he said the cyanoacrylate(CA) would wear better than a pre-cat lacquer.

    Those grips were smooth, so I'm not sure how using CA would work for your textured grips.

    I definitely would like to see the finished product. That is a unique pattern, and I'm sure that walnut will Pop when you get finish on it.
    Ditto on the Superglue. I use it on a lot of wood turning projects. Very durable and it does make the grain stand out.

    Don
     

    Lpherr

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    What kind of finish are you planning on using?

    Several years ago, a customer gave me a chunk of spalted buckeye and wanted grips made for a Colt Mustang .380. Making the grips was no problem, but I was stumped on what clearcoat to put on them.

    I called a friend down in KY who I like to call my "finishing guru", and he said to use cyanoacrylate. I was like, Superglue?!?, and he was dead set on it. Said to use Q-tips to apply, let it dry, then sand it smooth. Took me a couple hours to get it where I wanted, but once polished that spalt popped and looked real nice. When I questioned him on why, he said the cyanoacrylate(CA) would wear better than a pre-cat lacquer.

    Those grips were smooth, so I'm not sure how using CA would work for your textured grips.

    I definitely would like to see the finished product. That is a unique pattern, and I'm sure that walnut will Pop when you get finish on it.
    CA is fine for a smooth object, but not so good on textures. Personally, I don't care for the plastic look it gives to wood. Also the sheen is a high gloss if it's polished. I used it on many pens I've made.

    I prefer a satin finish for most, but not all, wood projects.
    I've used several different finishes for wood grips. A Tung oil varnish holds up pretty well, along with spar varnishes. Spar has uv inhibitors and both the above are water resistant, and resist abrasions.
    Poly works and is easy, and there are resin options. Resins will last almost forever, but to achieve a satin finish that looks good can be difficult.
    The composite grips I've made, get a 7 step polish, and are smooth and shiney.


    I'll snap a pic after the finish is applied.
     

    Lpherr

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    Ditto on the Superglue. I use it on a lot of wood turning projects. Very durable and it does make the grain stand out.

    Don
    I agree it works great for lathe projects. But, it's also brittle.
    There are turners having issues with the finish after several years.
    Another thing to note about CA. Some people develope sensitivities and allergic reactions to it if exposed over time.
     

    Frosty

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    Greencastle
    I agree it works great for lathe projects. But, it's also brittle.
    There are turners having issues with the finish after several years.
    Another thing to note about CA. Some people develope sensitivities and allergic reactions to it if exposed over time.
    One issue I’ve seen is if it’s exposed to moisture it will turn cloudy.
     

    MRockwell

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    I agree it works great for lathe projects. But, it's also brittle.
    There are turners having issues with the finish after several years.
    Another thing to note about CA. Some people develope sensitivities and allergic reactions to it if exposed over time.
    I used to turn pens with laminated blanks. PKEZLAM30-ALT1_70x70.jpg I hated the smell, and if my tools weren't ultra sharp the blank would explode from the friction heat.

    One thing I thought about with regards to the glossy finish of CA: I wonder if you could dull it like you do with lacquer. I sometimes mix talc(flattening powder) in lacquer to dull the sheen. I've never done it with CA, it might be a neat experiment to see what the result looks like.

    I never thought about the brittle aspect of CA. It makes sense, same as why it is better to use a polyurethane for stair treads instead of a lacquer. Poly is more flexible than lacquer, therefore it holds up longer.
     

    schmart

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    I used to turn pens with laminated blanks. View attachment 226123 I hated the smell, and if my tools weren't ultra sharp the blank would explode from the friction heat.

    One thing I thought about with regards to the glossy finish of CA: I wonder if you could dull it like you do with lacquer. I sometimes mix talc(flattening powder) in lacquer to dull the sheen. I've never done it with CA, it might be a neat experiment to see what the result looks like.

    I never thought about the brittle aspect of CA. It makes sense, same as why it is better to use a polyurethane for stair treads instead of a lacquer. Poly is more flexible than lacquer, therefore it holds up longer.
    I suggest you be really cautious mixing talc and CA to flatten it and try it on a piece of scrap first. My experience is that high surface area materials, e.g. sawdust cause the CA to setup very quickly. I also know that baking soda & CA sets up quickly to form a white plastic/ivory like material. Would hate to see you mix up a thick mix and it turn into a bird poop "feature" on your nice grips (or other project)!!!
     

    Lpherr

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    I like to use BLO/mineral spirits 2:1 on things that get handled a bunch. Easy to renew if needed, looks and feels good. Also do not need to remove the grips when I oil my firearm.
    BLO is a nice finish, but as you state, it would need renewed.
    It gives a nice natural feel to wood.
    It also is combustible for anyone that doesn't know.
     

    Lpherr

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    I used to turn pens with laminated blanks. View attachment 226123 I hated the smell, and if my tools weren't ultra sharp the blank would explode from the friction heat.

    One thing I thought about with regards to the glossy finish of CA: I wonder if you could dull it like you do with lacquer. I sometimes mix talc(flattening powder) in lacquer to dull the sheen. I've never done it with CA, it might be a neat experiment to see what the result looks like.

    I never thought about the brittle aspect of CA. It makes sense, same as why it is better to use a polyurethane for stair treads instead of a lacquer. Poly is more flexible than lacquer, therefore it holds up longer.
    Oh yes, the Diamondwood and Spectraply blanks.
    Once I started casting composites, I never bought another commercial blank.
    I controlled the colors, swirls, and used them in segmenting.

    CA, on a smooth surface, can be dulled with micromesh or similar, but can show scratches if the grit is to aggressive, and always do wet.
    Anything mixed into CA, can cause it to catalyze very quickly. On pens, we used BLO to catalyze the CA for rapid recoats. And it get very hot during the process. To the point the paper towel would smoke and I had burn marks on the tip of my finger, more than once. But, there was very little work to perfect the finish after 6 or 7 coats.
     

    Shadow01

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    My son s getting married next month. A couple of months ago, we were talking over the wedding plans with him. He mentioned that they were looking at renting an arbor for the ceremony, but it seemed like too much money for something that wasn't quite what they wanted. My son said he wanted to build one, but he doesn't have the time with all of the overtime he is getting and he would have to come to my house to build it.

    I asked if he minded if I helped out. He said he would appreciate it and we talked design. There are a couple of details to finish, then staining: View attachment 216646
    I have a set of those saw horses.
     
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