Winchester Safe

[schmart]

When my keypad went braindead, the manufacturer was able to give me the lock company factory reset password. These are reset at the safe company when they install them. Kaba MAS default looks to be 502550. I think mine used 505050. You may also try the "standard" code most use 123456.

I will suggest that if you get it open that you don't ever close the door again until after you replace the entire electronics setup. I locked the bolt with the door open to keep someone from "helping"!

I've got photos of the interior lock mechanism if you need them to decide where to cut...
--Rick

 

[wcd]

When my keypad went braindead, the manufacturer was able to give me the lock company factory reset password. These are reset at the safe company when they install them. Kaba MAS default looks to be 502550. I think mine used 505050. You may also try the "standard" code most use 123456.

I will suggest that if you get it open that you don't ever close the door again until after you replace the entire electronics setup. I locked the bolt with the door open to keep someone from "helping"!

I've got photos of the interior lock mechanism if you need them to decide where to cut...
--Rick

Issue is not the code it accepts both default code and programmed code. Regardless the solenoid does nothing resulting in the bolts remaining in place.

Honestly I am just going to take a rock spike and pry it open. More than a bit ****** at Winchester right now.

 

[Bugzilla]

Get a quote from a locksmith as previously mentioned.

 

[medcoxo]

What is the problem 'inside' the safe?
Google you tube of videos of guys opening safes. I have seen ones that were used as advertisements to prove one brand was better then the other? If it is not bolted to the floor/wall, it will be easier, as you can lay it on its side.

 

[jwamplerusa]

Hook up the keypad and just keep trying to open it many times. When mine failed, it initially took a couple of tries. Initially I thought I was fumbling the code. Later I realized it wasn't operating correctly.

Fortunately, I was able to get it open one more time, left the bolts out and locked it open till I got my mechanical dial.

 

[Angrysauce]

Pictures would be helpful dependent on the model and age the electronic locks differ. I replace a lot of locks (and drill a lot of hard plate) in my line of work.
I would advise against prying unless you are fine destroying it. I'd probably call a locksmith, if I recall the Winchesters have relockers aswell.

 

[wcd]

Get a quote from a locksmith as previously mentioned.

Given that Winchester emailed that the model I have will not accept a mechanical dial. It seems like throwing out $300 or more does not seem like a very good return given the cost of the safe.

 

[wcd]

Pictures would be helpful dependent on the model and age the electronic locks differ. I replace a lot of locks (and drill a lot of hard plate) in my line of work.
I would advise against prying unless you are fine destroying it. I'd probably call a locksmith, if I recall the Winchesters have relockers aswell.

At this point I am fine with it failing to return to service. Based on looking at the construction through the wiring hole it appears to be very thin rolled steel separated by foam.

 

[wcd]

What is the problem 'inside' the safe?
Google you tube of videos of guys opening safes. I have seen ones that were used as advertisements to prove one brand was better then the other? If it is not bolted to the floor/wall, it will be easier, as you can lay it on its side.

The solenoid is not operating to, release the bolts. It is bolted to the floor however a quick trip to the crawl space will fix that.

 

[Amishman44]

Oh my...and I have two (2) Winchester brand safes sitting in the garage waiting to be installed!
Both are electronic safes with key backup...better fire ratings than the Liberty's, + got 'em on sale!
Any suggestions on how to ensure mine don't 'lock-me-out' and fail?
Gonna be watching this thread!

 

[KG1]

This is a main reason why I stick with a mechanical lock even though they are a bit slower to access the inside. I don't trust electronic ones. Any firearm that I need quicker access to is secured through other means outside the main safe where a majority of my firearms and ammo are kept.

 

[firecadet613]

Oh my...and I have two (2) Winchester brand safes sitting in the garage waiting to be installed!
Both are electronic safes with key backup...better fire ratings than the Liberty's, + got 'em on sale!
Any suggestions on how to ensure mine don't 'lock-me-out' and fail?
Gonna be watching this thread!

If you have a key backup, the key should manually open it up so you can't be locked out.

 

[wcd]

Oh my...and I have two (2) Winchester brand safes sitting in the garage waiting to be installed!
Both are electronic safes with key backup...better fire ratings than the Liberty's, + got 'em on sale!
Any suggestions on how to ensure mine don't 'lock-me-out' and fail?
Gonna be watching this thread!

If you have key back up it should be fine?

 

[Timjoebillybob]

Oh my...and I have two (2) Winchester brand safes sitting in the garage waiting to be installed!
Both are electronic safes with key backup...better fire ratings than the Liberty's, + got 'em on sale!
Any suggestions on how to ensure mine don't 'lock-me-out' and fail?
Gonna be watching this thread!

Multiple lbs of tannerite stored inside the safes with a firearm and ammo stored outside said safes that will penetrate said safes and still retain enough velocity to set off the tannerite? That goes for electronic or mechanical safes.

 

[Timjoebillybob]

If you have a key backup, the key should manually open it up so you can't be locked out.

If you have key back up it should be fine?

Key locks bother me for security, a pipe wrench and screwdriver will defeat a large portion of key locks. A key lock to lock the mechanical dial is a different story than a key lock to open the safe.