What is in this can?

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  • trimman83

    Marksman
    Rating - 100%
    2   0   0
    Jun 22, 2010
    262
    59
    Warren Park
    I can read what it says, But I have heard of 39mm and 50mm in length. Maybe other sizes. I inherited these from a guy who moved and no longer wanted his guns and ammo around. His age may have had something to do with it also. I know his political ideas got in his way. I have also heard of Military ammo being corrosive.

    I'm thinking I may try to purchase a rifle to use them, or sell/trade them to someone who can. I'm more into Indiana hunting calibers. Really mostly favor my Knight .54. I'm wondering if any of you have any ideas on a good, accurate, fun, affordable weapon, or should I sell the un-opened can?

    I still plan to try and get a Hogster Thermal for my .223 and probably use it on my .22. Given those two weapons and places to use them at night, would I need a rifle that shoots the ammo in the can?

    If I sound ignorant, I am. And most of my people are too. No one can tell me what is in the can, and I am not quite ready to open it. 8.16.21.JPG Spam can.JPG
     

    Cameramonkey

    www.thechosen.tv
    Staff member
    Moderator
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    35   0   0
    May 12, 2013
    31,961
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    Camby area
    Tagging for interest. No shame in being ignorant. Gotta start somewhere.

    Its willful ignorance that is shameful. (but I digress... this isnt the political forum :): )
     

    rhamersley

    Master
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Jan 9, 2016
    3,737
    113
    Danville
    I can read what it says, But I have heard of 39mm and 50mm in length. Maybe other sizes. I inherited these from a guy who moved and no longer wanted his guns and ammo around. His age may have had something to do with it also. I know his political ideas got in his way. I have also heard of Military ammo being corrosive.

    I'm thinking I may try to purchase a rifle to use them, or sell/trade them to someone who can. I'm more into Indiana hunting calibers. Really mostly favor my Knight .54. I'm wondering if any of you have any ideas on a good, accurate, fun, affordable weapon, or should I sell the un-opened can?

    I still plan to try and get a Hogster Thermal for my .223 and probably use it on my .22. Given those two weapons and places to use them at night, would I need a rifle that shoots the ammo in the can?

    If I sound ignorant, I am. And most of my people are too. No one can tell me what is in the can, and I am not quite ready to open it.
    Well, French is a little rusty from 40 years of non use, but it looks like 800 cartridges with ordinary bullets for 7.62mm K(?) don’t know but maybe manufactured 1950 for rifle. 16 boxes of 50 cartridges.
     

    trimman83

    Marksman
    Rating - 100%
    2   0   0
    Jun 22, 2010
    262
    59
    Warren Park
    .30 Carbine would make sense to me. It came with a couple M1's. They look fun to shoot, but I have never taken them to the range.

    Right before Pyle's final appearance in Full Metal Jacket, he mentions 762, FMJ. I have no idea what weapon they had all been training with to that point. I'm gonna have to watch it one more time to see if I have a couple. No harm in watching that for the 20th time. That ol boy that lead them through basic training, who's real name escapes me(may he RIP)had some of the best, memorable, iconic scenes to ever see the big screen. Especially for a True Life Patriot/non-actor. I digress......

    Now I wonder what "corrosive" means. I know what it means, but when I first started out, 40 years ago with my Hawken .50, I knew black powder was corrosive. I just cleaned my rifle immediately after each use. If modern smokeless powder was labeled as corrosive, I'd have a lot cleaner gun collection.
     

    DoggyDaddy

    Grandmaster
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    73   0   1
    Aug 18, 2011
    103,640
    149
    Southside Indy
    Now I wonder what "corrosive" means. I know what it means, but when I first started out, 40 years ago with my Hawken .50, I knew black powder was corrosive. I just cleaned my rifle immediately after each use. If modern smokeless powder was labeled as corrosive, I'd have a lot cleaner gun collection.
    Corrosive ammo can either be corrosive due to corrosive salts (potassium chloride? - don't quote me on that) in the powder, primer or both. As far as cleaning, plain water will neutralize the corrosive salts, so a good rinse, then clean as normal. Some people also use window cleaner with ammonia, although other than cleaning a little better, it does nothing additional to what plain water does. Basically if you're used to black powder, you'd pretty much follow the same procedure you did with your black powder rifle.

    For example, if I'm shooting a Mosin with corrosive 7.62x54R, when I'm done at the range, I'll either pour bottled water down the bore while it's still hot, or run a few patches soaked in windshield washer fluid that I keep in an oiler can in my range bag. Again, I do this while the barrel is still hot because the heat will cause the water (or washer fluid) to evaporate quickly. When I get home, I just clean as normal (Hoppes No. 9 followed by CLP usually).
     

    Mongo59

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    12   0   0
    Jul 30, 2018
    4,471
    113
    Purgatory
    BTW Pyle had an M14 in Full Metal Jacket, 7.62X51 which is very close to .308 except for very slight differences in the case measurements.
     

    AmmoManAaron

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    37   0   0
    Feb 20, 2015
    3,334
    83
    I-get-around
    It's French 30 Carbine ammo, brass cased, berdan primed, and corrosive. Shooting this in an M1 Carbine is not the best idea since proper cleaning to completely remove the corrosive residue requires that you disassemble the gas piston and nut which is staked in place. It was designed to be a semi-permanently assembled subunit and taking it apart and putting it back together with proper restaking is both a pain and will compromise fitment of the parts over time. It's also not very good ammo in the first place, so it's probably better to just salvage the projectiles and powder, unless you have an easy to clean weapon to fire the stuff in. A Contender single shot pistol would be an option.

    Line by line translation/interpretation of the can label:
    800 cartridges, plain old FMJ (i.e. not tracer or anything exotic), 7.62mm Kurz (aka 7.62x33 aka .30 Carbine), Model 1950, for Carbine.
    Brass cases.
    16 boxes each containing 50 rounds.
    Lot #4, Made by Cartoucherie de Valence, in 1964.

    The "Model 1950" on the label is a French designation for the primer used in the cartridge and NOT the weapon it was for use in. The Model 1950 is a berdan primer. The Model 1950A would be a boxer primer. A worthwhile bit of information if you are a reloader!

    1629218560209.jpeg

    Unfortunately, both primers contain mercury fulminate, a compound which when it detonates, leaves elemental mercury behind that immediately forms an amalgam with the brass cartridge case and ruins it for reloading. This warning about mercuric primers is present in many older reloading manuals. From a salvage point of view, if you had "1950A" on the can label, the cartridges could be disassembled and the live, corrosive, mercuric primers removed and replaced with new standard non-corrosive, non-mercuric, boxer primers. The stuff in your can is only good for salvaging the projectiles and powder, unless you can tolerate the corrosive primers. Normally, cleaning just as you would with a muzzleloader takes care of the issue, the problem arises from the M1 Carbine gas system and is why the US military only ever used non-corrosive primers in their Carbine ammo. Only the French, Chinese, and Dominican Republic were dumb enough to make corrosive Carbine ammo. While on the subject, the Dominican Republic made Carbine ammo is downright dangerous and is unsafe to fire.
     
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