The Official Hot Rod Thread - Part 4: Burnouts for Distance

[Jaybird1980]

I went to the site. It states in the description that they made out of paper. What's up with that?

BTW, I put it together tonight to see what kind of pattern I had. I hit the min required torque and then some on the pinion nut with .006" backlash. The drive side of the ring pattern was in the middle, both top to bottom and side to side. On the coast side I was in the middle top to bottom buy skewed to the toe side.

Not sure if I want to live with that or not. I still have to oil everything better, put the old nut on and go through the process again. And then check to see if anything has changed.

Then if it's okay, remove the old nut and put a new one on. And of course check it again.

Or I can accept defeat and take it to a shop. It will probably cost me about $300 to have them set the ring and pinion only.

What's the minimum torque on the nut, and what kind of preload were you turning at that?

 

[Jaybird1980]

30's are not the stronger choice. They work well enough. Will probably serve you very well.

Have you done any searching on youtube. It could be your friend and that kit that Tchicken posted looks like it has this spacer included.

The high pinion 30 are the stronger of the 30's.
And that pic the chicken posted is for just the spacer and spacer shims. They look like the steel shims to me.

 

[churchmouse]

The high pinion 30 are the stronger of the 30's.
And that pic the chicken posted is for just the spacer and spacer shims. They look like the steel shims to me.

They are. I am looking at the smaller thick one.

Not real sure personally about the High pinion offering. Like I said it should serve him very well.
At times like these I need to put a muzzle on my inner demon. You know, the demon that demands big power numbers, copious amounts of nitrous and a drive train to deal with it....

I do get carried away. It is very hard for me to take something apart and just put it all back together.

 

[Jaybird1980]

They are. I am looking at the smaller thick one.

Not real sure personally about the High pinion offering. Like I said it should serve him very well.
At times like these I need to put a muzzle on my inner demon. You know, the demon that demands big power numbers, copious amounts of nitrous and a drive train to deal with it....

I do get carried away. It is very hard for me to take something apart and just put it all back together.

Yeah I hear you about it being a problem with leaving things stock.

Back 20 years ago people were searching the junkyards for those high pinions, at least around here. They only came in a couple of the jeeps.

 

[thunderchicken]

They are. I am looking at the smaller thick one.

Not real sure personally about the High pinion offering. Like I said it should serve him very well.
At times like these I need to put a muzzle on my inner demon. You know, the demon that demands big power numbers, copious amounts of nitrous and a drive train to deal with it....

I do get carried away. It is very hard for me to take something apart and just put it all back together.

It's a disease that we share. Just like my dad, we can't run anything stock. And, we never know where to draw the line and say that's enough. We just get carried away and in way deeper than what we originally planned.
When we first built the Tbird it was supposed to be a very healthy small block on spray but was going to remain streetable enough to cruise on occasions. That went out the window when we put it in the chassis shop and the snowball rolled for several years of constant upgrades and changes.

 

[thunderchicken]

On the Jeep we've been discussing I talked to a coworker that's a Dodge/Jeep master tech. He said those high. Pinion set ups don't use any solid spacer or crush sleeve at all, just the shim kit. I sent Greg the picture from our OEM parts system and it doesn't list anything but the shims. That's using the VIN to get the as built data. I would share it but don't want to post his VIN without his permission.

 

[churchmouse]

On the Jeep we've been discussing I talked to a coworker that's a Dodge/Jeep master tech. He said those high. Pinion set ups don't use any solid spacer or crush sleeve at all, just the shim kit. I sent Greg the picture from our OEM parts system and it doesn't list anything but the shims. That's using the VIN to get the as built data. I would share it but don't want to post his VIN without his permission.

So, the pre-load is set with Shims then...???

 

[thunderchicken]

So, the pre-load is set with Shims then...???

Yes. There is a shim between the housing and the inner pinion bearing cup and then two shims that slip onto the pinion and are situated between the inner and outer bearing. The shim between the inner cup & housing is used to set depth. At least that's how I understand it from my guy (I have never had one of these apart).

 

[femurphy77]

It's a disease that we share. Just like my dad, we can't run anything stock. And, we never know where to draw the line and say that's enough. We just get carried away and in way deeper than what we originally planned.
When we first built the Tbird it was supposed to be a very healthy small block on spray but was going to remain streetable enough to cruise on occasions. That went out the window when we put it in the chassis shop and the snowball rolled for several years of constant upgrades and changes.

The wife and I call it playing Dominos. Once you push over that first domino you never know where it's going to end! Fortunately for me she realizes that she does it too.

 

[churchmouse]

Yes. There is a shim between the housing and the inner pinion bearing cup and then two shims that slip onto the pinion and are situated between the inner and outer bearing. The shim between the inner cup & housing is used to set depth. At least that's how I understand it from my guy (I have never had one of these apart).

Never had a 30 let alone that series 30 apart. Always 44's or 60's.

 

[churchmouse]

And its 2:45 in the AM fellas and we are deep into dana series ring and pinions

 

[thunderchicken]

Never had a 30 let alone that series 30 apart. Always 44's or 60's.

9" and 8.8s are all I've ever messed with

 

[thunderchicken]

And its 2:45 in the AM fellas and we are deep into dana series ring and pinions

Well I work nights so it didn't seem so late to me lol

 

[gregkl]

30's are not the stronger choice. They work well enough. Will probably serve you very well.

Have you done any searching on youtube. It could be your friend and that kit that Tchicken posted looks like it has this spacer included.

This is going to be a factory restoration and this diff is what was on it when it rolled off the factory floor. The main reason I swapped the other diff out. It was an older model with the vacuum actuated axles.

This Jeep won't be seeing any rock gardens or deep mud. The most might be some forest service roads and some 2-tracks.

I think they call what I'm building a "mall crawler".

 

[gregkl]

What's the minimum torque on the nut, and what kind of preload were you turning at that?

200 ft lbs on the nut, 15-30 in/lbs for the preload on used bearings. I was a touch light on the preload so when I do it again with oiled bearings I'll increase the torque in 5lb increments until I get in the range.

 

[gregkl]

And its 2:45 in the AM fellas and we are deep into dana series ring and pinions

Sorry guys, I was sleeping.

 

[churchmouse]

This is going to be a factory restoration and this diff is what was on it when it rolled off the factory floor. The main reason I swapped the other diff out. It was an older model with the vacuum actuated axles.

This Jeep won't be seeing any rock gardens or deep mud. The most might be some forest service roads and some 2-tracks.

I think they call what I'm building a "mall crawler".

But “you” are building it.
You.

 

[churchmouse]

200 ft lbs on the nut, 15-30 in/lbs for the preload on used bearings. I was a touch light on the preload so when I do it again with oiled bearings I'll increase the torque in 5lb increments until I get in the range.

25 in/lbs was my target.
Dial indicator to measure back lash on the ring gear.
I used oil or ARP lube on the nut and bearing caps to achieve proper torque and yes I often used ARP bolts. Because I am a freaking nut about this stuff. But in the end for my driving style and usage it payed off. Once I put something together it seldom crossed my mind again.
But that’s me.

 

[Bigtanker]

I'll be down at Cletus and Cars tomorrow!!

 

[thunderchicken]

I'll be down at Cletus and Cars tomorrow!!

Be ready for a good chance of some showers between 2-5 according to the local weather folks