The Official Hot Rod Thread - Part 4: Burnouts for Distance

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  • churchmouse

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    Read Bobs book on high performance driving back in the 80s.
    Great book by one of the greats.
    Wish I had made the effort to go to his school.
    Rest In Peace Bob
    Bob was a regular in our trailer at many SCCA GTP events. He was a fan of the car and the crew. He was a pretty stand up guy and we shared some time at the bar in the hotel along with the GM performance engineers. I enjoyed every minute of this.
    RIP sir.
     

    churchmouse

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    Got the exhaust done on the 51 Chevy project. Turned out well I think. Was a fun build! Not super complicated, but did have some challenges to work around.

    This body is mounted on a 1991 s10 chassis.

    The goal was to hide it as much as possible, from the rear you can’t see the tips.


    View attachment 168094 View attachment 168095 View attachment 168096 View attachment 168097 View attachment 168098 View attachment 168099 View attachment 168100 View attachment 168101
    That's a slick old truck Rusty. Probably a great driver.
     

    churchmouse

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    I am so excited to drive this truck. Set up perfectly old school cool. I’m excited to see what this v6 will do. Would have been so easy to swap a v8 into it, but we chose not to and then owner was ok with it. Love doing something different!
    The V-6 is the only downside in my mind but I am a caveman anyway so no worries. I am sure it will be perfect.
     

    RustyHornet

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    The V-6 is the only downside in my mind but I am a caveman anyway so no worries. I am sure it will be perfect.
    With the mods, it should be around 350hp. Out of an old 4.3, that should scoot.

    The biggest drive towards the 6 for this build was, we would have had to cut up the firewall to fit a v8… The body was already done on this one, so that was a no go…
     

    ChristianPatriot

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    With the mods, it should be around 350hp. Out of an old 4.3, that should scoot.

    The biggest drive towards the 6 for this build was, we would have had to cut up the firewall to fit a v8… The body was already done on this one, so that was a no go…

    You have a very cool job Rusty. My prayer is that it will always pay well enough to keep your family safe and warm.
     

    RustyHornet

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    You have a very cool job Rusty. My prayer is that it will always pay well enough to keep your family safe and warm.
    So far, so good. Boss was kind enough to give a little bit of a raise after the new one was born. That was a welcome surprise. We are busier than a one legged guy in an ass kicking contest right now. And more people lined up wanting to come in…
     

    jeffsqartan

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    New headers came in. I'm thinking about doing something a little on the wild side... Using a shorty header on the driver side and using one of the "long"er tube headers on the passenger side. If you look at the pic, you can see why I'd consider doing that. I haven't put the driver side header on just yet so I'm not sure how well it fits just yet.

    I did find out that the new header is going to hit the factory sway bar mount. I reached out to a good FB group that's dedicated to these cars and making them turn corners. My question was what aftermarket options I had if I were to remove the factory sway bar mount. According to Jack Hidley from Maximum Motorsports, I can take the sway bar and mounts from an SN95, along with SN95 A-arms, and use those. The SN95 bar mounts directly under the frame, as opposed to the Foxbody mounts that are inboard of the frame (you can see the driver side mount next to the driver side header).

    Since this car will be on the street/strip only for the first year, I figure I'm fine to run no bar for now. When I move into Phase 2, the cornering phase, I'll buy a new K-member setup to use the SN95 rack and pinion, the SN95 a-arms, and buy an SN95 bar and mounts. It will make purchasing new 5-lug spindles easier because I could then use 96-04 spindles (it's getting hard to find 94-95 spindles, which have the right tie rod location to use with a factory Foxbody rack and pinion).

    So yeah, super stoked on that. And worst case, if I have to make adjustments to the turbo setup in Phase 2, then that's fine. My goal for Phase 1 is a running/driving turbo car making stupid amounts of power. Doesn't need to turn good lol



     

    femurphy77

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    New headers came in. I'm thinking about doing something a little on the wild side... Using a shorty header on the driver side and using one of the "long"er tube headers on the passenger side. If you look at the pic, you can see why I'd consider doing that. I haven't put the driver side header on just yet so I'm not sure how well it fits just yet.

    I did find out that the new header is going to hit the factory sway bar mount. I reached out to a good FB group that's dedicated to these cars and making them turn corners. My question was what aftermarket options I had if I were to remove the factory sway bar mount. According to Jack Hidley from Maximum Motorsports, I can take the sway bar and mounts from an SN95, along with SN95 A-arms, and use those. The SN95 bar mounts directly under the frame, as opposed to the Foxbody mounts that are inboard of the frame (you can see the driver side mount next to the driver side header).

    Since this car will be on the street/strip only for the first year, I figure I'm fine to run no bar for now. When I move into Phase 2, the cornering phase, I'll buy a new K-member setup to use the SN95 rack and pinion, the SN95 a-arms, and buy an SN95 bar and mounts. It will make purchasing new 5-lug spindles easier because I could then use 96-04 spindles (it's getting hard to find 94-95 spindles, which have the right tie rod location to use with a factory Foxbody rack and pinion).

    So yeah, super stoked on that. And worst case, if I have to make adjustments to the turbo setup in Phase 2, then that's fine. My goal for Phase 1 is a running/driving turbo car making stupid amounts of power. Doesn't need to turn good lol





    Space the factory bar down from the factory mount?
     

    jeffsqartan

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    Space the factory bar down from the factory mount?
    So I had asked about that at first. The response that I got was that the SN95 bars mount directly under the frame, vs inboard of the frame for the factory Fox mounts.
    IMO, makes more sense to mount directly to the frame anyway.
     

    indyblue

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    Bob was a regular in our trailer at many SCCA GTP events. He was a fan of the car and the crew. He was a pretty stand up guy and we shared some time at the bar in the hotel along with the GM performance engineers. I enjoyed every minute of this.
    RIP sir.
    Just curious, I don't know what years you ran SCCA but a good friend of mine's dad raced GTP in the '70's. Dave Causey Sr. raced a Porsche 917KT. Did you happen to know him?

    Whenever they started that thing up in the garage, it rocked the entire neighborhood.

    He had a barn full of nice cars that burned to the ground. Lots of nice ones lost forever.
     

    churchmouse

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    Just curious, I don't know what years you ran SCCA but a good friend of mine's dad raced GTP in the '70's. Dave Causey Sr. raced a Porsche 917KT. Did you happen to know him?
    I ran with the Hendricks GTP Corvette in the mid to late 80's but that name rings for some reason.
    Sooooo many names places and things from what seems another life.

    I miss it.
     

    femurphy77

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    So I had asked about that at first. The response that I got was that the SN95 bars mount directly under the frame, vs inboard of the frame for the factory Fox mounts.
    IMO, makes more sense to mount directly to the frame anyway.
    Definitely! I've ripped a couple of factory mounts out of foxes that were set up for the twisties and that was with a stock gt bar. Just thinking low budget.
     
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