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  • maxwelhse

    Grandmaster
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    0   0   0
    Aug 21, 2018
    5,415
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    Michiana
    FWIW, except for the CR20 as I haven't gotten my hands directly on it yet, I've replaced the build plates on all of our printers with solid 1/4" thick brass sheets and applied PEI sheets to them. The thicker PEI sheets available from more commercial sources, like Stratasys, seem to work much better than the thin stuff from Amazon/SeeMeCNC, etc. So far, it's been the best solution of anything I've found. The thicker PEI is also pretty expensive, but well worth it, IMO. We have glass beds for all of them too, but they don't spread heat nearly as well as the brass and nothing wants to stick to the glass without PEI anyhow, so...

    The round brass sheets on our deltas seem to have come off of the waterjet that cut them with some bow in them, but the rectangles for the cartesian machine came out pretty flat. Eventually I plan to have them fly cut or surface ground dead level.

    Also, FWIW, none of that is as expensive as it sounds. I bought a sheet of brass big enough for our Rostock and M2 from McMaster (who, surprisingly, was the cheapest source) for about $150 and having them machine cut was $50 (for both). In retrospect, I'd guess 1/8" brass would be plenty and the cost goes down dramatically there. I'd guess getting them fly cut, or ground, wouldn't be more than another few hundred, but I plan to have our in-house guys do that for me so I may never know.

    We also have lexan enclosures on most of our printers. It's nice to be able to look in there without having to open anything up. I think the sheets (1/16"?) to make one for the CR20 were a couple hundred bucks. Surprisingly, ACE Hardware was the cheapest place to get them.

    All said and done, I hope to have the CR20 printing some giant ABS parts, with reasonable reliability, in a big hurry, for under 2 grand. You can't even get anywhere close to that for less money when I researched the market before... just lots of fiddling around to get there.
     

    RobbyMaQ

    #BarnWoodStrong
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    35   0   0
    Mar 26, 2012
    8,963
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    Lizton
    I started out with the magnetic mats, but ended up picking up a glass bad. That's very nice once you have it tweaked. TH3D has a solid mount kit with a camera mount for a webcam if you're using OctoPrint, so I ended up going for one of those. I didn't realize they're in NW Indiana - the stuff I ordered yesterday should be at my house today. Love it!

    For me the 400x400 bed plate is warped. So when I clip glass to it, the glass bows in the center. I tried putting aluminum tape dwn to build up all around the edges n stuff, but still had issues. Before I would just print using a raft if I was overly concerned about stickage. But this magnetic bed combined with ABL has done wonders for me... I couldve never printed 32 of those ear savers on the old bed. Plus the weight savings helps reduce ringing a bunch.

    Yeah, Tim Hoogland is an old 3d printing friend. He relocated from Illinois to Indiana last year after struggling with taxes and regs there.
    He youtube streams alot, and rants alot, but in the end a pretty nice guy. He has an AR hanging on the wall in his office if you ever catch one of his streams. He's offered to host a Hoosier Club meetup but we haven't pinned down a date yet.

    Hoosier Club is a mixed bag of a bunch of us 3d printers in Indiana that spend way too much time in the you tube chats.
     
    Last edited:

    RobbyMaQ

    #BarnWoodStrong
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    35   0   0
    Mar 26, 2012
    8,963
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    FWIW, except for the CR20 as I haven't gotten my hands directly on it yet, I've replaced the build plates on all of our printers with solid 1/4" thick brass sheets and applied PEI sheets to them. The thicker PEI sheets available from more commercial sources, like Stratasys, seem to work much better than the thin stuff from Amazon/SeeMeCNC, etc. So far, it's been the best solution of anything I've found. The thicker PEI is also pretty expensive, but well worth it, IMO. We have glass beds for all of them too, but they don't spread heat nearly as well as the brass and nothing wants to stick to the glass without PEI anyhow, so...

    The round brass sheets on our deltas seem to have come off of the waterjet that cut them with some bow in them, but the rectangles for the cartesian machine came out pretty flat. Eventually I plan to have them fly cut or surface ground dead level.

    Also, FWIW, none of that is as expensive as it sounds. I bought a sheet of brass big enough for our Rostock and M2 from McMaster (who, surprisingly, was the cheapest source) for about $150 and having them machine cut was $50 (for both). In retrospect, I'd guess 1/8" brass would be plenty and the cost goes down dramatically there. I'd guess getting them fly cut, or ground, wouldn't be more than another few hundred, but I plan to have our in-house guys do that for me so I may never know.

    We also have lexan enclosures on most of our printers. It's nice to be able to look in there without having to open anything up. I think the sheets (1/16"?) to make one for the CR20 were a couple hundred bucks. Surprisingly, ACE Hardware was the cheapest place to get them.

    All said and done, I hope to have the CR20 printing some giant ABS parts, with reasonable reliability, in a big hurry, for under 2 grand. You can't even get anywhere close to that for less money when I researched the market before... just lots of fiddling around to get there.

    Nice! I am really liking the pei surface (powder coated on one side) of these th3d flex plates. I went and put their EZ mat on the other side. Between this and the ezabl, I'm pretty happy. I don't really have a need to go with a larger nozzle and bondtech, etc... I'm less of a tinkerer and more of a 'print good quality and paint it' kinda maker mostly. So if it takes longer, then so be it... I'm patient.

    These are certainly like any other hobby... one can spend a ton of money doing upgrades
     

    4651feeder

    Expert
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    3   0   0
    Oct 21, 2016
    1,186
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    East of NWI
    This Ender 5 was purchased 12/1/2019, assembled and converted to direct drive along with X linear rail sometime in Feb and printing today for the first time. Bout a month ago took a piece of copier paper to the hot end and physically set bed gap, that's it. Like to print tethered, so honestly have yet to even scroll thru the LED menu. Just haven't been feeling any hurry to use this, probably cause I didn't care for the expected idiosyncrasy of a machine unknown to me. This print's not perfect, yet surprisingly good for the lack of effort I put into setting up the parameters. Wondering if I should buy a lotto ticket. That's cheap AIO Robotics PLA.

    View attachment 86174
     

    Mounty09

    Expert
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    18   0   0
    Dec 12, 2010
    839
    63
    Noblesville
    The company I work for bought a Raise3d Pro2 Plus awhile back and I have started to play with it. I have been buying cheap filament and have been irritated with inconsistent prints. After reading through this thread some I just placed an order for some atomic PETG. What kind of print speeds are you guys running with atomic filament?

    Here are a couple of my prints.

    78418460_2839247772753620_8854388905374384128_o.jpg


    75435906_2807178829293848_1142928679077150720_n.jpg


    76613065_2807178732627191_5511789349806538752_n.jpg
     

    Caleb

    Making whiskey, one batch at a time!
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    5   0   0
    Aug 11, 2008
    10,155
    63
    Columbus, IN
    Just got my 1kg spool of light grey PETG for my WYZE cam housings and got a 3.5Kg of black PETG from atomic...THIS THING IS HUGE!

    *that's what she said*

    ...anyways, sadly, they were out of starry night and cherry red...as well as that cool translucent deep red they have.
     

    RobbyMaQ

    #BarnWoodStrong
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    Mar 26, 2012
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    I have a spool of atomic petg but I haven't had a chance to print a temperature tower yet...
    My best guess would be 140-45c at around 50mm/s but I suppose speed would depend on your nozzle size/hot end and printer
     

    Caleb

    Making whiskey, one batch at a time!
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    5   0   0
    Aug 11, 2008
    10,155
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    Columbus, IN
    I have a spool of atomic petg but I haven't had a chance to print a temperature tower yet...
    My best guess would be 140-45c at around 50mm/s but I suppose speed would depend on your nozzle size/hot end and printer

    I print my atomic PETG at 240-250 nozzle, 85-90 on the bed
     

    fullmetaljesus

    Probably smoking a cigar.
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    6   0   0
    Jan 12, 2012
    5,903
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    Indy
    I may have asked about this before. But I'll bring it up again maybe someone has a suggestion..

    I have a maker select v2

    It won't complete a print. It'll strat the print but then just completely stop and the nozzle goes back to home.

    As best as I can tell it gives about about 30 minutes or so into the print.

    I've tried a handful of different models. I even reformatted my ad card but the problem continues.

    Any thoughts?
     

    4651feeder

    Expert
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    3   0   0
    Oct 21, 2016
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    East of NWI
    I may have asked about this before. But I'll bring it up again maybe someone has a suggestion..

    I have a maker select v2

    It won't complete a print. It'll strat the print but then just completely stop and the nozzle goes back to home.

    As best as I can tell it gives about about 30 minutes or so into the print.

    I've tried a handful of different models. I even reformatted my ad card but the problem continues.

    Any thoughts?

    First question that comes to my mind is have you attempted to print tethered to the computer and are the results the same?
     

    4651feeder

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    3   0   0
    Oct 21, 2016
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    I have not

    Well if you do try that and it does print, then in my simple mind it's possible the firmware's corrupted or the ATmega1284p may no longer be able to process files larger than the failure point.

    Good link for flashing. https://www.instructables.com/id/Using-an-Arduino-to-Flash-the-Melzi-Board-Wanhao-I/

    The thought has also briefly crossed my mind, the power supply may be failing and momentary dropout might cause the printer to default as you described.
     

    fullmetaljesus

    Probably smoking a cigar.
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    Jan 12, 2012
    5,903
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    I really hope I don't have to flash it. Though your other suggestions for me thinking. For sometime now the cooking fan on the back has had a bad bearing. I wonder if the Dan finally died and its over heating.

    So I think I'll start there. Thanks for all the suggestions and helpful info.
     

    Caleb

    Making whiskey, one batch at a time!
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    5   0   0
    Aug 11, 2008
    10,155
    63
    Columbus, IN
    I really hope I don't have to flash it. Though your other suggestions for me thinking. For sometime now the cooking fan on the back has had a bad bearing. I wonder if the Dan finally died and its over heating.

    So I think I'll start there. Thanks for all the suggestions and helpful info.

    That is plausible...
     

    Caleb

    Making whiskey, one batch at a time!
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    5   0   0
    Aug 11, 2008
    10,155
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    Columbus, IN
    I was excited to hear about the prusa xl, until I heard it was going to be around $1500 and a tad smaller then 400x400. I was really hoping they would have gone with 500x500, so it's a harder sell for me.
     

    tv1217

    N6OTB
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    3   0   0
    Mar 11, 2009
    10,226
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    Kouts
    Necro bump. I've suddenly become interested in the topic because I'm a recent "amputee" and I was doing some reading and a 3D printed prosthetic seems like a viable option.

    I put amputee in quotes because I feel like it could be rather insulting to somebody who experienced an actual significant loss. All I'm missing is 1/3 of my left index finger at the DIP joint and I'm right handed.
     
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