THE CZickness XLIX....Tackling 2023 with CZ style...

[ditcherman]

That was probably my Rami!

Yes it was! Ready for test firing I believe. And it looked great, you’d never know the shim was in there if you weren’t really looking.

 

[T-DOGG]

Link to shim?

 

[ditcherman]

Yup, sat it on parallels. Didn't even think about checking top to rails for parallel. Got the optic mounted earlier today and couldn't get the dot low enough, maxed out elevation. Been filing an angle ever since then. Slow going and quite annoyed at myself. This was wayyyyy more difficult than I ever imagined.

I wasn't even going to discuss all of this because quite frankly I'm disappointed in myself and tired of humiliation. I guess I should just quit being a poor and pull my head from out my ass.

Nah.
This is a hell of a learning curve we’re on, brother.
But we are learning.
Worst case scenario, it’s the cost of a slide, in my opinion. (I very rarely don’t count my time but I’m not on this for sure!!!)

I never dreamed that the slide top and bottom weren’t parallel. My mount face is about 2.5 - 3 thousandths lower eta higher at the front than the back, measured from the bottom. Measured from the top it’a really close.

1 degree slope in 1 foot is .2”, so on the length of my mount (1.83ish) I need to take .0305 off the front.
I’m getting set up in the mill, sloping my slide front to back to do that.

 

[ditcherman]

Search ADE shim for red dot on Amazon.

Link to shim?

ETA but I’m not sure 1 degree is enough if I’m already milled with a backward slope.
In 21 feet it’s 50.4 edit to fix 4.2 inches I think. And I was off 18” with the Eotech, 6 with the Romeo.

 

[Born2vette]

Link to shim?

Try this to start. The ADE shims are also available on Amazon

https://opticsfactory.com/search.php?search_query=1.0+degree+shim&section=product

 

[Born2vette]

My issue was POI was about 15” low at 25 yds and could not get close to POA. Allen test fired and said all is well with the 1.0 degree shim

 

[T-DOGG]

Nah.
This is a hell of a learning curve we’re on, brother.
But we are learning.
Worst case scenario, it’s the cost of a slide, in my opinion. (I very rarely don’t count my time but I’m not on this for sure!!!)

I never dreamed that the slide top and bottom weren’t parallel. My mount face is about 2.5 - 3 thousandths lower at the front than the back, measured from the bottom. Measured from the top it’a really close.

1 degree slope in 1 foot is .2”, so on the length of my mount (1.83ish) I need to take .0305 off the front.
I’m getting set up in the mill, sloping my slide front to back to do that.

I'll check my slide rail to top for parallel in a bit. I'm just aiming (no pun intended) to get the dot at the bottom of it's elevation travel and then I'm good. I looked at that shim earlier, but thought it would look weird.

 

[rlfrye]

I'll check my slide rail to top for parallel in a bit. I'm just aiming (no pun intended) to get the dot at the bottom of it's elevation travel and then I'm good. I looked at that shim earlier, but thought it would look weird.

says the guy with the tutu

 

[Born2vette]

I'll check my slide rail to top for parallel in a bit. I'm just aiming (no pun intended) to get the dot at the bottom of it's elevation travel and then I'm good. I looked at that shim earlier, but thought it would look weird.

When I get back in town and pick up my Rami will post a pic with the shim

 

[T-DOGG]

Search ADE shim for red dot on Amazon.

ETA but I’m not sure 1 degree is enough if I’m already milled with a backward slope.
In 21 feet it’s 50.4 inches I think. And I was off 18” with the Eotech, 6 with the Romeo.

Rear rail to top measurement is .7815"
Front rail to top measurement is .7855"

 

[ditcherman]

Rear rail to top measurement is .7815"
Front rail to top measurement is .7855"

Maybe your rails are parallel to your top because that’s really close.

But I’m just a farmer with hitch pin tolerances, just learning the thousandths language.

 

[T-DOGG]

Maybe your rails are parallel to your top because that’s really close.

But I’m just a farmer with hitch pin tolerances, just learning the thousandths language.

I have another problem. My cut is not squared. It's thicker on the right side by .0025" at the front and .0035" at the rear. So my cut is angled up from left to right while looking from rear of the gun.

*edit, measurements are after some initial filing I just did, previous numbers were more

 

[ditcherman]

I have another problem. My cut is not squared. It's thicker on the right side by .0025" at the front and .0035" at the rear. So my cut is angled up from left to right while looking from rear of the gun.

*edit, measurements are after some initial filing I just did, previous numbers were more

You were hesitant a bit ago, now I am. Not sure how bad of a procedure this is, to do this this way, but I really don’t want to mount my vise, then remount my rotary table, to do the front radius.
But there’s a point to my picture…


Started out with this setup to try to tilt the slide front to back, then checked side to side, and I was off nearly 4 thousandths in the width of the slide. And the cause was tightening down the black vise on the left. Had it right at the ejection port, and tightening tilted it.
My point is there are lots of very little things that we won’t think to see. Patience may help, but perfection may be just luck for me.
We’re in a crash course.

Edit to add, my dial indicator that I should be using broke, have one on order. But this will have to do for now.

 

[Born2vette]

You were hesitant a bit ago, now I am. Not sure how bad of a procedure this is, to do this this way, but I really don’t want to mount my vise, then remount my rotary table, to do the front radius.
But there’s a point to my picture…
View attachment 255221

Started out with this setup to try to tilt the slide front to back, then checked side to side, and I was off nearly 4 thousandths in the width of the slide. And the cause was tightening down the black vise on the left. Had it right at the ejection port, and tightening tilted it.
My point is there are lots of very little things that we won’t think to see. Patience may help, but perfection may be just luck for me.
We’re in a crash course.

Edit to add, my dial indicator that I should be using broke, have one on order. But this will have to do for now.

This stuff is all very confusing to me. Too many variables that may (or may not) need accounting for. I like things simple, give me a human heart anytime over this!

 

[ditcherman]

I have another problem. My cut is not squared. It's thicker on the right side by .0025" at the front and .0035" at the rear. So my cut is angled up from left to right while looking from rear of the gun.

*edit, measurements are after some initial filing I just did, previous numbers were more

Alt response: it’s a red dot, it floats.
(That was the farmer kicking in.)

 

[ditcherman]

This stuff is all very confusing to me. Too many variables that may (or may not) need accounting for. I like things simple, give me a human heart anytime over this!

Suddenly, a new slide looks cheap!

 

[ChrisK]

Guys, you’re not running a CNC mill so you’re not going to be at 1 ten thousands. Even if you have a 3 axis DRO you still won’t be holding that tight of tolerance. Tool bit wear comes into play also. You’re doing fine with what you’re working with. The more you do it the better you will be at it. I did it for 24 years and still made mistakes.

 

[jagee]

I have another problem. My cut is not squared. It's thicker on the right side by .0025" at the front and .0035" at the rear. So my cut is angled up from left to right while looking from rear of the gun.

*edit, measurements are after some initial filing I just did, previous numbers were more

My offer to help stands...

 

[mcapo]

….just a farmer with hitch pin tolerances….

Ok. I found that pretty funny.

 

[T-DOGG]

Well, I'm giving up, kinda. I found an angled shim made out of aluminum. It was sitting on my bench. It's the EGW dovetail mount I used prior to diving in on this cut. Sometimes the answer is right in front of you.