So.. what are you reloading at the moment??

[sell33]

It’s been cold in my garage…but was last loading 250 savage for my 77

 

[yetti462]

Was on 223, but stuck a case. Switched to 243.

 

[Michigan Slim]

.270 done.
.243 done.
5.56 done.
30 Carbine done
12 gauge done.
20 gauge done.
.38 Special done.
44 mag done.
.357 done.
44 Special done.
.30-30 done.
9mm done.
.38-55 done.
45 ACP started. Need to test loads. Then 900 more.

 

[Max Volume]

Was reloading 45 Colt and finishing 44 mag before switching to 38-55 and 12 ga.

 

[Michigan Slim]

Going to make some 12 gauge using APP just for giggles.

 

[Michigan Slim]

Was reloading 45 Colt and finishing 44 mag before switching to 38-55 and 12 ga.

Expand on the .38-55 a bit. Always interested in what others have found works.

 

[Max Volume]

I had these 38-55's for awhile but have not tried reloading for them yet. Now that I am retired it's time. I have shot the Marlin 1893 and Winchester 1894 (both made in the late 1890's) with factory ammo. Did alot of research on shooting them. From my understanding bore size and proper length brass makes a difference. Bore size can be all over the place and somewhere along the line the later ones were sized to .375 or so and they started using shorter brass. I ordered the longer 2.125 Starline brass about 5 years ago but they are difficult to get now. The Winchester shot better than the Marlin in which the bullets tumbled but I may have an explanation. Factory jacketed bullets are sized to .377 I hear. Also heard to limit jacketed use in the older ones. I slugged the bores and the Marlin is .380 and the Winchester is .379. I've read the commemoratives like the Chief Crazy Horse are also .379. Some have said loading black powder with softer lead helps obturate the bullet to fit the bore. I currently have bullets sized to .379 and .380 and will get some .381 to try out. It is said the RCBS cowboy dies work best but you may need to use a different expander depending on how large a bullet you are using. Guess I'm gonna find out.

There are some vids of guys out west shooting a gong at 800 - 1000 yards with older 38-55's and iron sights so it is possible. There is also a facebook group called "The 38-55 Winchester shooters group" I have been lurking at.

Here's a link to some info from Starline: https://www.starlinebrass.com/articles/loading-with-correct-38-55-winchester-cases-38-55-rifle/

This guy also has some info:

 

[Michigan Slim]

Sounds like we are in the same spot. The Lee 250 grain mold drops at .380 for me and I use Starline almost exclusively. I use 3031 and Unique. Both will clang the gong at 300 with boring regularity. Lol. I've been thinking of a 300 grain mold to try. Maybe.

 

[Max Volume]

Wish they would allow 38-55 for deer on public land. How much different is it than those now allowed.

 

[Michigan Slim]

Wish they would allow 38-55 for deer on public land. How much different is it than those now allowed.

Aye. Does a fine job. Nothing special about it, just dead deer.

 

[2in1evtime]

Well damn. Stuck a case in my .270 die. Broke my 1/4-20 tap some time ago so off to the hardware.

Self tapping screws have worked great for me

 

[Creedmoor]

View attachment 253214

I had these 38-55's for awhile but have not tried reloading for them yet. Now that I am retired it's time. I have shot the Marlin 1893 and Winchester 1894 (both made in the late 1890's) with factory ammo. Did alot of research on shooting them. From my understanding bore size and proper length brass makes a difference. Bore size can be all over the place and somewhere along the line the later ones were sized to .375 or so and they started using shorter brass. I ordered the longer 2.125 Starline brass about 5 years ago but they are difficult to get now. The Winchester shot better than the Marlin in which the bullets tumbled but I may have an explanation. Factory jacketed bullets are sized to .377 I hear. Also heard to limit jacketed use in the older ones. I slugged the bores and the Marlin is .380 and the Winchester is .379. I've read the commemoratives like the Chief Crazy Horse are also .379. Some have said loading black powder with softer lead helps obturate the bullet to fit the bore. I currently have bullets sized to .379 and .380 and will get some .381 to try out. It is said the RCBS cowboy dies work best but you may need to use a different expander depending on how large a bullet you are using. Guess I'm gonna find out.

There are some vids of guys out west shooting a gong at 800 - 1000 yards with older 38-55's and iron sights so it is possible. There is also a facebook group called "The 38-55 Winchester shooters group" I have been lurking at.

Here's a link to some info from Starline: https://www.starlinebrass.com/articles/loading-with-correct-38-55-winchester-cases-38-55-rifle/

This guy also has some info:

Are you casting your own bullets?
If so what lube and what alloy are you using sir?

 

[Creedmoor]

Sounds like we are in the same spot. The Lee 250 grain mold drops at .380 for me and I use Starline almost exclusively. I use 3031 and Unique. Both will clang the gong at 300 with boring regularity. Lol. I've been thinking of a 300 grain mold to try. Maybe.

what alloy are you casting with?
Is that a Lee alox lube mold your using?

 

[Max Volume]

what allow are you casting with?
Is that a Lee alox lube mold your using?

I have not gotten into casting so far. I've got some Rimrock and found a few casters for the caliber on GB.

 

[Creedmoor]

I have not gotten into casting so far. I've got some Rimrock and found a few casters for the caliber on GB.

Also log on Castboolets.com and ask around.
A wealth of knowledge there.

 

[Michigan Slim]

what alloy are you casting with?
Is that a Lee alox lube mold your using?

I'm lazy and cheap so I don't test hardness.
For normal pistol rounds I use wheel weight.
For low pressure CAS rounds I cut the WW with pure(r) lead to soften it up.
For black powder and subs I use pure. Rifle and pistol.
For my .30-30, .38-55 and 45-70 full loads I mix 18 pounds of WW with two pounds of lino and quench them.
All but the BP rounds get Lee liquid Alox.

 

[Creedmoor]

I'm lazy and cheap so I don't test hardness.
For normal pistol rounds I use wheel weight.
For low pressure CAS rounds I cut the WW with pure(r) lead to soften it up.
For black powder and subs I use pure. Rifle and pistol.
For my .30-30, .38-55 and 45-70 full loads I mix 18 pounds of WW with two pounds of lino and quench them.
All but the BP rounds get Lee liquid Alox.

In my High Walls 40-65, 45-70 & 90 in cast
20-1 lead to tin with no antimony at all.
Just bullets with good grooves and SPG lube.
I would bet depending on what bullet and lube you are using you wasily could cut out a pound of lino.
Most of the molds I use are from Steve Brooks or vintage Lyman.

 

[Max Volume]

Also log on Castboolets.com and ask around.
A wealth of knowledge there.

I have never signed up there yet but have searched their site alot.

 

[Michigan Slim]

In my High Walls 40-65, 45-70 & 90 in cast
20-1 lead to tin with no antimony at all.
Just bullets with good grooves and SPG lube.
I would bet depending on what bullet and lube you are using you wasily could cut out a pound of lino.
Most of the molds I use are from Steve Brooks or vintage Lyman.

Your right on the linotype. When I started casting I was definitely using too much. As I go along I'm using much softer lead and getting almost no leading now. Live and learn.
Friends gave me about 400 pounds when I started. Still have most

 

[gassprint1]

I dont have the stuff to reload but have been to the rand to dig for bullets and melt down a few years ago. I am very curios being ww these days are a zinc kind mixture. Any melted that stuff down for target loads. Bullet weight much different than the standard ww lead?