Sharpening

[Relatively Ninja]

I recall reading some comments (probably by Rhino) regarding the sharpening of knives (specifically EDC utility knives), and how it's better to have a rougher (some would call it a "micro-serrated") edge than a very fine edge (parentheses). My question is, how does one go about obtaining such an edge?

I use a spyderco sharpmaker; while it can certainly hone my blade to fineness befitting a paper-shaver, I've noticed that such sharpening with the the ultra-fine stones yields a blade that is much less useful in everyday cutting tasks. How do I get a useful edge that excels at mundane, everyday tasks? Should I only sharpen with the medium stones? Is there a technique that I don't know that will give me a better cutting edge? Did I miss a thread that already discusses this in detail? Is Obi-wan Kenobi my only hope?

Please INGO, I request your assistance.

 

[Gamez235]

The sharpmaker does create those "toothy" edges. Just used the med/fine stones and sharpen at an angle that suits your task.

 

[rhino]

I recall reading some comments (probably by Rhino) regarding the sharpening of knives (specifically EDC utility knives), and how it's better to have a rougher (some would call it a "micro-serrated") edge than a very fine edge (parentheses). My question is, how does one go about obtaining such an edge?

I use a spyderco sharpmaker; while it can certainly hone my blade to fineness befitting a paper-shaver, I've noticed that such sharpening with the the ultra-fine stones yields a blade that is much less useful in everyday cutting tasks. How do I get a useful edge that excels at mundane, everyday tasks? Should I only sharpen with the medium stones? Is there a technique that I don't know that will give me a better cutting edge? Did I miss a thread that already discusses this in detail? Is Obi-wan Kenobi my only hope?

Please INGO, I request your assistance.

Gamez235 is correct. Most abrasives used to sharpen create the "teeth" on the edge, and the key is to avoid polishing them away by increasingly fine grit abrasives and stropping. Mirror finishes are pretty, but they don't always cut very well. An example of abrasives that do not form toothy edges (at least on stainless steels) are natural hard arkansas stones. They polish as they remove metal and while you get a great edge for shaving or push cutting with a hard, black arkansas stone, that same edge might just slide across a piece of 550 cord when you really need it cut.

Keep in mind that toothy edges are better for slicing, especially in fibrous material. Conversely, a mirror polish can greatly enhance some types of push cutting duties, such as wood carving. Wood chisels and carving knives perform the best with a super polished bevel and edge.

Stainless steels (in general) are less forgiving of polishing the edge for slicing than are high carbon steels and non-stainless tool steels.

When you sharpen or hone, just don't go too fine on the grip. If you strop afterward, only do it a little.

When I sharpen, I use diamond abrasives that are the classic for producing a toothy edge.

 

[traderdan]

Once upon a time...many knives carried by the general population of these United States had more than one blade. I think it is still pretty neat, to carry a 54 pattern ( Case Trapper type) with two different type of grinds! Wow! I can slice meat OR hack rope! Forgive the rant..but Grandpa's knife is pretty practical.

 

[RAMBOCAT]

send it back to the manufacturer every time you want it sharpened.......

 

[Dean C.]

send it back to the manufacturer every time you want it sharpened.......

Amateur pffffffft.......

 

[Beardown]

So true traderdan. Best knife I carry is my grandpa's old two blade Case knife. It will handle anything I need it to do.