Red dot type optics question

[thunderchicken]

I have very little experience with any kind of red dot type of optic. I can see where they can certainly be useful on a weapon used for home defense.
My question is, at what yardage should it be zeroed in at? Also, if you zero it at say 50yds will even be close to accurate on closer yardage such as a 25yd shot?

 

[rb288]

At the muzzle, most red dots will sighted, poi vs poa, 2 1/2 inches high, depending on how much above your barrel the red for sits.
If you zero at 50yds, poi and poa will be equal at 50 yds.
So at 25 yds, your poi vs poa will be approximately an inch or so low.
Since most red dots have a dot size of 2 moa or more, and 1 moa at 25 yds is about 1/4 inch, 1 inch at 25 yes, would be about 4 moa.
So, basically, with a 2 moa dot zeroed at 50 yds your poi at 25 yds will be about 2 dots, or about 1 inch low.
Not really enough to be worried about.

 

[Itchytriggerfinger]

I recently switched from a 15 yard zero to 25. With a 25 yard zero, I'm seeing about a 2-1/2" spread from 5, 15, and 25 respectively.

50 seems pretty far for home or self defense.

*handgun

 

[cosermann]

OP, it depends on 1) the cartridge you’re using, 2) the height over bore of your optic, and 3) your anticipated use.

And yes, if you sight in at 50 yds, it will be close at 25 yds (a bit low, but never lower than your height over bore) with most of the usual calibers and setups.

Rifle, shotgun, or handgun?

 

[92FSTech]

Need more info. What kind of weapon, caliber, and optic/mount height? If you're talking a rifle like an AR in .223, with a typical co-witness mount height, you're talking about a 1.9" bore/sight offset, so regardless of zero, you'll typically have to hold over a bit at close range. I like a 50 yard zero for a .223 AR because it keeps my point of impact inside a relatively small area out to my max expected engagement distances of 200 yards, and it's pretty simple to keep track of.

For a handgun, the bore to sight offset is typically a bit less, and you're dealing with a different ballistic trajectory. I zero my handguns at 15 yards. There's still a bit of holdover required up close, but it's not as pronounced as with the rifle.

The info above is speaking in generalities...you're going to have to fine-tune it to your specific setup and confirm it on paper for yourself.

Below are some AR zero target examples at various ranges. Just keep in mind that these are dealing with a specific muzzle velocity and sight setup...you may see some variance with your specific gun and load:

 

[ECS686]

For an AR Several folks like a 50 yard zero which 92FSTech shared. Others like Paul Howe (who knows some things) recommends a 100 yard zero.

Whichever you choos shoot it up close so you know where to hold due to Mechanical Offset. As mentioned your impact will be 2 1/2-3” low at 7-15 yards

As far as handguns 7-10 yards some will argue but either one wherever will only be about an inch difference at 25 yards for POA/POi so it doesn’t really matter. So you like 7 there’s your answer you want 10 there’s your answer. Most folks in a Dave Spaulding Red Dot class I took were one of those. Myself I did 10 yards for no reason.

 

[two70]

The maximum point blank range for a 9mm on a human size target is beyond 70 yards, meaning if zeroed at short range (10 yards or under) it will be no more than 4" low out to more than 70 yards. With a rifle, that distance is going to be more like 250+ yards.

Unless you're shooting at very small targets or well over 250 yards, its just not going to matter much whether you zero at 10, 25, or 50 yards with a center mass hold.

 

[NyleRN]

Circumstances, use, caliber will all dictate what's best for you. I have a red dot on my HD AR. It's 5.56. I've zeroed it to 25yds because that will be around the max I'd use that weapon. The main purpose for this gun is engagements in feet not yards. Longest shot in my house would be 40 feet. So at CQB distances I know I'll need to place the dot midline of the body at almost shoulder level to make hits in the chest. Or dot on the gut and zipper up. You need to test the gun at the actual realistic distances that you'd be most likely using it for so you know your holds

 

[Refrigerator27]

0 yard zero with a cannon for home defense, no need to worry about POI. Might disintegrate the front door though.

 

[Scott58]

I zero everything at 25 yards.

 

[derrickgoins]

I use red dots for AR's (suppressed 10.3" sbr & 16" Geissele SD), PCC's (AR9 & B&T APC Pro), and handguns.

AR's - 50 yards
PCC's & Handguns - 25 yards

Trijicon MRO on AR's and PCC's, combination of Trijicon and Holosun on handguns.

 

[breakingcontact]

I zero everything at 25 yards.

That sure makes things simpler!

 

[DadSmith]

I like 15yds for non magnum handguns such as the 9mm.
At 15yds you can shoot it out to 75yds with the same zero.

 

[thunderchicken]

Thanks for the responses everyone.
It's kind of a two part deal to be honest.
I'm considering putting one on an AR in 5.56 that's primarily for home defense. I think it's biggest advantage would be in low light conditions.
I'm looking at the Vortex Strikefire 2, with the cowitnesss mount.

Likewise, my dad has expressed interest in one for a HD shotgun since he doesn't see as well as he used to close up. Even in day light he sometimes has trouble seeing black sights on a pistol.


Just trying to educate myself before I jump in

 

[Kirk Freeman]

Size of your dot?

I use 36. Whatever your range, train for the offset. If self-defense, remember, for you (assuming arguendo no badge or salad suit) it will be close, very close, conversational range.

 

[92FSTech]

For an AR Several folks like a 50 yard zero which 92FSTech shared. Others like Paul Howe (who knows some things) recommends a 100 yard zero

I'm good with a 100 yard zero, too. Given ideal circumstances (like if I only had to worry about me and my own skillset), I actually prefer it and most of my personal non-AR rifles are zeroed at 100. My 5.56 ARs still get zeroed at 50 to keep them consistent with my work stuff, though.

50 is just easier to achieve with a good degree of repeatability for a lot of shooters, especially with non-magnified optics or irons, and I'll take a precise, repeatable zero over a nebulous "close enough" compromise any day. We also have some range facility limitations which makes getting out past 50 difficult. I try to make it happen when I can just so everybody gets some experience shooting further out, but I have a lot more options available to me at 50 yards and in.

What I DO NOT like is the 25 yard zero for a 5.56. If you only plan to ever use the rifle at "inside your own house" distances, it can work (although I'd argue no better than a rifle zeroed at 50), but if you ever have to reach out a little bit with it, it can throw you off. I've found myself missing high at 200 yards before with a rifle zeroed at 25. In my mind it's just easier to account for holdover up close and then drop at distance, without having to worry about the point of impact rising well above your point of aim and then dipping back down. The 50 yard zero does have a bit of rise between 50 and 200, but it's less than my own "wobble zone" at those distances, and nowhere near the degree that a 25 yard zero does.

 

[ECS686]

I'm good with a 100 yard zero, too. Given ideal circumstances (like if I only had to worry about me and my own skillset), I actually prefer it and most of my personal non-AR rifles are zeroed at 100. My 5.56 ARs still get zeroed at 50 to keep them consistent with my work stuff, though.

50 is just easier to achieve with a good degree of repeatability for a lot of shooters, especially with non-magnified optics or irons, and I'll take a precise, repeatable zero over a nebulous "close enough" compromise any day. We also have some range facility limitations which makes getting out past 50 difficult. I try to make it happen when I can just so everybody gets some experience shooting further out, but I have a lot more options available to me at 50 yards and in.

What I DO NOT like is the 25 yard zero for a 5.56. If you only plan to ever use the rifle at "inside your own house" distances, it can work (although I'd argue no better than a rifle zeroed at 50), but if you ever have to reach out a little bit with it, it can throw you off. I've found myself missing high at 200 yards before with a rifle zeroed at 25. In my mind it's just easier to account for holdover up close and then drop at distance, without having to worry about the point of impact rising well above your point of aim and then dipping back down. The 50 yard zero does have a bit of rise between 50 and 200, but it's less than my own "wobble zone" at those distances, and nowhere near the degree that a 25 yard zero does.

While some will argue (they can do whatever they want I’m not saying that)
I don’t recommend an AR as a house gun for a casual gun guy. Simply because of the offset and a casual if 1 time a year shooter if even that will not have it down. There are better designs to run red dots on if one feels they have to have a long gun for a 30 foot hallway!

I base that from seeing multiple LEOs have to reshoot the rifle course every year and they are all those once a year shooters no different than an average non gun enthusiast random gun owners that is see at the range like once and never again for maybe a year if ever.

If that’s not anyone personally then your the exception so nothing personal just MY onservation!

 

[RSindy]

The choice of zeroing distance for a red dot optic can vary based on factors like environment and barrel length. Typically, a 50-yard zero can be effective, providing a good balance for shorter and longer-range engagements. However, it’s essential to consider your specific use case, as certain distances may require adjustments to ensure accuracy.

 

[NyleRN]

Simply because of the offset and a casual if 1 time a year shooter if even that will not have it down. There are better designs to run red dots on if one feels they have to have a long gun for a 30 foot hallway!

Do you have any examples?

 

[DadSmith]

For my rifles such as 5.56, 6.5 Grendel, 308 Winchester etc they get a 50yd zero because each one is good to go out to 200-225yds depending on the bullet and velocity.

My 7.62x39mm has a different zero.
It gets zeroed at 30yds. That way it can use the same zero out to 200yds.
It raises about 2" from 80-120yds but drops back down close to zero until around 200yds where it drops around 3" below zero.
Around here 200yds is a long shot, and I really didn't buy the 7.62x39mm for that range. However, if need be I can easily reach out to 200yds without adjustment.