That would explain my light strikes then. When I get a light strike, I usually try it on 1-2 other pistols. Sometimes I get one or two to fire, but usually if they are dead in my primary pistol, they are dead in the two others.
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Primers
- Thread starter armalitesheepdog
- Start date
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Are really getting light strikes? Have you examined the failed primers for signs of a smaller dimple?
It could aslo be due to different priming compounds used in .mil to resist the potential high tempuratures of the firing pin, bolt, breach face, and chamber reached during sustained fire. The compound would necessarily have to be less sensitive those high temps to avoid premature ej^H^H ignition.
It could aslo be due to different priming compounds used in .mil to resist the potential high tempuratures of the firing pin, bolt, breach face, and chamber reached during sustained fire. The compound would necessarily have to be less sensitive those high temps to avoid premature ej^H^H ignition.
I have. And what I am seeing is a smaller dimple. Does that mean I'm not getting light strikes?
Thats an interesting topic, when Talon was in business demilling US ammo they weren't allowed to resell punched primers.
If you knew to boss it gave you privilege.
The only punches primers I have used are SR out of demilled 30 carbine.
They seat EASY into the pockets.
After having a few Blow Outs using them I load them in cases smaller than 221 Fireball.
Mostly 218 bee and Hornet cases.
One of the problems with selling seated then punched primers depending upon the manufacturer the anvils need to be seated to be armed.
Once armed you will be handling, shipping a warm potato.
Im wondering with some having so many primer problems are they really being fully seated in the pocket.
Is this with all brass? Commercial and Mil crimped?
Mine are all brass, commercial. I seat with a hand seater( I load with a single stage). I have a good feel for when the primer bottoms out on the casing but some of them were really hard to seat so I suppose it could be operator error.
But wouldn't a short seated primer have less of a problem igniting?
I have just never had a failure of my reloads prior to using these primers. Loading on a single stage allows me a lot of redundancy with multiple looks as I go through the steps.
Not that it means anything in regards to primers, but I case check every round which gives me yet another look at the primer.
No, exactly the opposite. The primer will move forward until it seats losing some of the potential energy in the strike during the process.
Firing pin is Inertial so firing pin strikes primer taking some of the firing pins momentum out and the primer begins moving forward until it seats by then it’s probably too late for the firing pin to keep going full force.
Thats a great process.
With a short seated primer in most cases the firing pin will just drive the case forward if it can and also push the primer forward.
Hence the light strikes.
Many times with that happening it will fire the second or third time around.
Some of the S&B and Privi brass ive bought new over the years like 54R, 7 and 8mm mauser and a few other metrics have come with pockets that I couldn't seat Fed or Win primers by hand, a rock chucker of a Dillon and push them until being seated.
I run them all now through a Dillon swedge before loading them when new.
You can't really tell by looking at primers if you are getting light strikes.
Although if it is not going off it usually is a light strike unless it is a defective primer.
I have had many customers bring me a revolver and say something is wrong as the rounds that didn't go off had a small hit and the ones that fired have a really deep hit.
That is because the rounds that fired the case and primer set back against the breach face and flowed around the firing pin giving a much deeper indentation.
There is nothing mechanically wrong with the revolver(in this case) that would cause some to have deeper hits than some of the others. It might need more mainspring tension or endshake fixed or several other possibilities but those would be random and probably a different chamber every time.
Dirty chambers (powder) can cause light strikes in autos also as it takes the energy of the firing pin to finish seating the round and not leave enough to actually set off the primer.
The gun has to be tuned to the primers used. It is easy to blame hard primers and some are much harder than others but unless it is adefective primer the gun can be tuned to set them off.
Although if it is not going off it usually is a light strike unless it is a defective primer.
I have had many customers bring me a revolver and say something is wrong as the rounds that didn't go off had a small hit and the ones that fired have a really deep hit.
That is because the rounds that fired the case and primer set back against the breach face and flowed around the firing pin giving a much deeper indentation.
There is nothing mechanically wrong with the revolver(in this case) that would cause some to have deeper hits than some of the others. It might need more mainspring tension or endshake fixed or several other possibilities but those would be random and probably a different chamber every time.
Dirty chambers (powder) can cause light strikes in autos also as it takes the energy of the firing pin to finish seating the round and not leave enough to actually set off the primer.
The gun has to be tuned to the primers used. It is easy to blame hard primers and some are much harder than others but unless it is adefective primer the gun can be tuned to set them off.
Get a stronger spring that should stop light primer strikes.
I put a brand new striker assembly in not too long ago thinking that was the problem.
Will it cure an unseated primer or a few pieces of brass that has excess headspace?
I really don't think it's the pistol. I can switch back and forth between rounds that don't have those primers and it works fine. I can load the duds in two other pistols (Shield+ and a 1911) and they still don't fire for the most part.
I'm sure I could tune it as Boss mentioned, but I'm not sure I want to get into all that since once these are gone, I'm not going to buy them again.
I have always tried to use two different primers; Federal "blue box" or Federal Match primers.
And I'm not sure how I could tell if it was me erroring on the reloading but it could be that I suppose. Though someone said upthread if you try again and it fires then it could be. And maybe that is what is happening to those few that do light off on the 2nd or 3rd try.
Anyway this is a thread about buying primers, not figuring out my problems, lol.
I apologize for the thread drift. I am open to PM's if anyone wants to advise me.
I have also read that in some cases, usually when hand priming, that hard primers may not get seated to the full depth resulting in even a firing pin strike that is entirely normal not crushing the priming compound sufficiently against the anvil in order to mix and ignite the component chemicals. Hard primers like mil spec epitomize such seating difficulty. I believe CCI recommends seating their #41s slightly below flush
ZSR Small Pistol Primers Free Shipping & Hazmat - 4000ct
ZSR Small Pistol Primers Free Shipping & Hazmat - 4000ct
also other styles,brands in stock now they wont last long though, I have used these primers in the past with no issues! Also free shipping and hazmat and no tax too
I might try these out although I'm waiting until next week so I can go to Brian's Surplus and get some of the next shipment. The ZSR's seem more cost effective though since I want more than just 1K spp.
AndreusMaximus
Master
I ordered 2,000 of each (small rifle and small pistol) and after shipping and tax the total came out to just under $320. Ordered yesterday, and they're already shipped and scheduled to be delivered Monday. It also didn't charge me a hazmat fee; hopefully that's not just an error on their site waiting to be corrected.
I've used a couple hundred of each type of Murom primers with no malfunctions so far, so here's hoping my luck holds out with this order.
This is good news for us that are shy to use brands like Ginex (or anything except the CCI, Federal and Winchesters we're all familiar with) as the success rate varies so greatly with them.
Since the shortage, it seems like we're getting a lot more imported stuff now. I have nothing against foreign made, just unfamiliar and inexperience with them makes me and many of us hesitant.
Since the shortage, it seems like we're getting a lot more imported stuff now. I have nothing against foreign made, just unfamiliar and inexperience with them makes me and many of us hesitant.
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