New to AR-15s

[dirt43]

I have decided I want an AR. I am going to build one so that I can stay within my monthly budget. I am buying it slowly piece by piece, and then gonna have a friend help me build it. I bought a S&W stripped lower at The Outdoorsman in Greenwood and am wondering if it is 5.56 and .223 or just .223. They said because I am building it I can do either, but I also know they are a business and looking to sell stuff. Can somebody please help me with this. I would also like to know if there is a list of all the parts needed floating around out there for an AR build. As I said I am new and not entirely sure what all is needed to complete this build. Last does anybody know where I can get a cheap lower parts kit that is going to function well enough for targets/coyotes? Thanks in advance.

 

[ru44mag]

5.56 is dia. in mm. Where .223 is dia. in inches.

 

[dirt43]

5.56 is dia. in mm. Where .223 is dia. in inches.

Right. I understand that, but I know that the .223 platform will not fire the 5.56 cartridge, but the 5.56 platform will fire the .223 cartridge. I want the 5.56 platform and am trying to verify that the 5.56 platform is what I purchased. The guy behind the counter said that a stripped lower could be either depending on what it was set up for, but I am not too sure about that.

 

[Manatee]

The difference is chamber dimension of the barrel. All of the other parts are completely the same. Barrel twist will determine which bullet weights are likely to perform better (accuracy) in your rifle/carbine.

Visit AR15.com and look at their instructions and fotos on building your ar. Have fun! Build It Yourself - AR15.COM

 

[SubUrbanCamo317]

To my knowledge they chamber the same. It might depend on the barrel you choose along with the upper assembly.

 

[ru44mag]

Right. I understand that, but I know that the .223 platform will not fire the 5.56 cartridge, but the 5.56 platform will fire the .223 cartridge. I want the 5.56 platform and am trying to verify that the 5.56 platform is what I purchased. The guy behind the counter said that a stripped lower could be either depending on what it was set up for, but I am not too sure about that.

Sorry. I thought they were the same. Maybe an AR expert will chime in soon.

 

[digitalrebel80]

the lower doesnt matter its the barrel that makes the difference you could put a 9 millimeter barrel on it would work fine. If you want a 556 get a 556 barrel and you will be good to go

 

[jrh84]

The .223 vs. 5.56 only applies to the barrel. The lower has nothing to do with the chambering, unless you are moving up to a .308 platform, which is a whole different ballgame. If you get a "typical" upper, it will likely be chambered in 5.56, which will shoot .223 ammo just fine.

The same lower could be used for a .22lr, 5.56, a 6.8 spc, .300 blackout, or .458 socom upper... they all use the same lower and same upper receiver, just different barrels.

Palmetto State Armory online is a good source for lower parts kits, and uppers as well. They usually post "daily deals" every morning. You won't go wrong with a standard kit, but it'd be nice if you could check out some "upgraded" kits in person like the Magpul MOE or others before you commit to something. Some simple upgrades can be had for not much more than the "standard" kits.

Del-ton, inc. also sells rifle kits, though they are very hit and miss on availability. I have a 16" mid length kit with a couple thousand rounds town it with no issues.

There are lots of online tutorials on lower receiver building. Few tools required...small punches, small brass hammer, channel locks, and a little patience. Building uppers is a little more involved, and probably not for beginners.

 

[digitalrebel80]

Watch out for m4 cuts on the barrel or receiver don't mismatch them

 

[dirt43]

I love this site. Thank you guys for all your input. If I have any more questions along the way I will be back

 

[SpaldingPM]

Like Manatee stated, Chamber is the deciding factor to whether it will be 5.56 or 223. 95% of the time, the barrel will be stamped with "5.56 nato or .223 Rem."

Coyote/target gun huh? Ok this is what I'd suggest.
Your barrel and trigger are going to be the most important deciding factors of a said target/coyot AR.

First off, I'd go with an 18"-20" Heavy barrel; choice would be a 20" Bull barrel.
For twist rate, I'd go with a 1:7 twist. Look at it like this... the lower the 2nd number in the twist rate (the 7 in 1:7) the faster the twist... IE.. 1 rotation of the bullet in 7" of the barrel as opposed to 1 twist in 9 or 8 inches in a 1:9 or 1:8.
Tighter twist will allow for tighter bullet groups amongst heavier rounds (62g and above), also those heavier rounds provide greater accuracy at longer distances. So I'd def go with a 20" Bull barrel 1:7 twist.
You'll also hear a lot about chrome line... on a accuracy dedicated rifle, I avoid chrome lined barrels. Chrome lined is exactly what it sounds like. The purpose is to make the barrel last a few thousand rounds more, but with that you'll sacrifice some accuracy, not a whole lot, but enough for a "target" dedicated AR to not live up to its full potential.

For gas system... well with a 20" you really have one option, Rifle length. Which is also ideal for the kind of shooting you'll be doing.

Trigger wise, I'd go with something around a 5lb pull. Wilson Combat tactical triggers are my fav, but pricey! A good trigger group can make the difference between 3moa and 5moa at 700 yrds... or the difference between a stomach shot and a heart/lung shot.

If you want my honest opinion on all of this though.... If you're new to AR's, then build yourself a decent mid grade for all around use, for half the price.... (a carbine, dissipater, middy etc). Learn the gun in and out (they're very easy to learn once you have one for a few months). Get amazing at iron sights, then move to a reflex style red dot, then move to an actual zoomed optic. Start out small.
Shoot, the only experience I had with the system before had was with the military, and I didn't even carry one when I was deployed. I was issued the M240. I Learned quite a bit about the m4 before hand, but now that I'm out, and I started building my own, I've learned so much. Started with a fixed carry handle carbine, now I have 2 AR lowers with those wilson triggers, and multiple purpose specific uppers to go along with them.
Start easy, learn the system, then go all out.

BTW, visit http://palmettostatearmory.com/index.php/ as a start. I live by this website when it comes to building an AR

 

[dirt43]

I really appreciate your comment. I forgot to say that it is also going to be used for home defense with frangible ammo. I was thinking about doing the 16 inch barrel flat top receiver and starting off with iron sights like you had mentioned. And then I was thinking about getting a lower end red dot but not bottom of the line and then moving up to a scope when hunting.

 

[bowtie]

If you want a great red dot just get an aimpoint PRO. They can be had between 375-400 bucks and come with the mount in 2 MOA config. You can turn it on and leave it on for about 3 years. Lower end red dots (cheap) Dont hold zero especially if you plan on swapping optics to hunt with a scope. But I have a better idea, once you build or buy your AR the bug will bite you to have another so you can have one for personal defense and one for hunting! Thank me later!

 

[dirt43]

the gun "bug" has already bitten me and that's why I am where I am right now the fiance doesnt like me spending so much money lol

 

[dirt43]

Also... Do I have to get a "gunsmith" hammer? Brass on one end and hard plastic/rubber on the other end?

 

[Jeremy1066]

I really appreciate your comment. I forgot to say that it is also going to be used for home defense with frangible ammo. I was thinking about doing the 16 inch barrel flat top receiver and starting off with iron sights like you had mentioned. And then I was thinking about getting a lower end red dot but not bottom of the line and then moving up to a scope when hunting.

If you are building from the ground up, do your research (this thread is a great start) and figure out EXACTLY what you want and do it right the first time. If you "eventually" want to put an extended quad rail (free float of course) with flip up sights to go along with a nice red dot sight, save up and do it. If you start cheap you will have a cabinet full of cheap parts and wasted money. And as for 5.56/.223...make sure the upper/barrel that you choose has 5.56 stamped on it and you will be GTG.

 

[LarryC]

The only difference in the 5.56 and .223 chamber is where the "lands" of the rifling begin and possibly the starting angle (lead in) of the lands. The .223 "only" is closer to the bullet and in theory was done to increase accuracy for long range and target shooting - results have been questionable that it really makes any difference. However by the lands being shaped and positioned in the barrel where they are in the .223 configuration, it is possible for the 5.56 round to raise the pressure in the barrel beyond "safe" limits due to the higher pressure round and the fact there is little distance for the bullet to build velocity before it hits the lands. I personally haven't read of anyone having an issue with this but better safe than sorry!

The Wylde chamber is supposed to maintain accuracy of the .223 chamber while being as safe as the 5.56 NATO military chamber. So your decision to build the AR for either .223 or both will not be an issue until you are ready to either purchase a barrel or an assembled upper with a barrel.

 

[111NMC]

Make sure to check out AR15.com. You will realize that there are a lot more questions to ask before you start building. If you are on a budget, then you should determine what the primary purpose of the gun will be before you start building. It will save you some dollars for sure.

But, its a disease, and you probably are infected

 

[maxmayhem]

the outdoorsmen are not gonna lie to you ...beside the lower is for either caliber...the barrel is what determines the caliber.....this lower if for 556 could be used for 556 223...7.62 x 39 ..300 blackout...450 bushmaster.etc.....you need to go to ar15.com...this is very easy....pm me and i can show you how to do it....Assemble your own LOWER, UPPER, FREE FLOAT, TRIGGER, GAS BLOCK - Step by step instructions! - AR15.COM

 

[Kutnupe14]

The only difference in the 5.56 and .223 chamber is where the "lands" of the rifling begin and possibly the starting angle (lead in) of the lands. The .223 "only" is closer to the bullet and in theory was done to increase accuracy for long range and target shooting - results have been questionable that it really makes any difference. However by the lands being shaped and positioned in the barrel where they are in the .223 configuration, it is possible for the 5.56 round to raise the pressure in the barrel beyond "safe" limits due to the higher pressure round and the fact there is little distance for the bullet to build velocity before it hits the lands. I personally haven't read of anyone having an issue with this but better safe than sorry!

The Wylde chamber is supposed to maintain accuracy of the .223 chamber while being as safe as the 5.56 NATO military chamber. So your decision to build the AR for either .223 or both will not be an issue until you are ready to either purchase a barrel or an assembled upper with a barrel.

THIS! OP, read this one again, and again, until you understand it.