New Dillon 650 powder measure setup?

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  • atalon

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    So I just recently got a Dillon 650 (came as .223) from Profire and was doing the setup. The small powder bar that was installed could not get anywhere close to the 27 grains of powder I was trying to use. I am guessing when they test it at Dillon (like they say they do) that don't put full loads in if any at all.

    Any comments?

    Also the larger powder bar that also came with it adjusts little faster than I like.
     

    atalon

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    I have noticed then when the press indexes it tends to throw some of the powder around as well. Anything I can do to help this? Seems like I am already going slow to get used to it and if I went as fast as I would with the case feeder running it would throw a lot more powder.
     
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    Josh Ward

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    for .223 you want to use the large powder bar....

    You can clip about a half a coil off the shell plate ball detent spring to help with the power slop, tighten up the shell plate retaining bolt a hair too will help prevent it. It kinda a fine adjustment...
     

    atalon

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    OK, I will get me one of those parts kits soon and will try it then just in case I mess it up. Hoping there is one in there.
     

    romack991

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    I have noticed then when the press indexes it tends to throw some of the powder around as well. Anything I can do to help this? Seems like I am already going slow to get used to it and if I went as fast as I would with the case feeder running it would throw a lot more powder.

    Search for the shell plate roller bearing for the xl650. I would recommend this over cutting the spring. I didn't get good results cutting the spring.
     

    biggen

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    Do a google or bing or whatever search for Brian Enos forum, tons of info for Dillon owners there.
     

    MikeDVB

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    So I just recently got a Dillon 650 (came as .223) from Profire and was doing the setup. The small powder bar that was installed could not get anywhere close to the 27 grains of powder I was trying to use. I am guessing when they test it at Dillon (like they say they do) that don't put full loads in if any at all.

    Any comments?
    Install the large powder bar. It's not hard to do.

    Also the larger powder bar that also came with it adjusts little faster than I like.
    They adjust the same or very close, take the small and large out and look at them.

    What I do is I put a case in station two, raise it up to give it powder, lower it down - pour it and weigh it and adjust - rinse and repeat until I am where I want to be.

    I have noticed then when the press indexes it tends to throw some of the powder around as well. Anything I can do to help this?
    As others have said - take the shell plate off and below it you will find a steel ball bearing - if you look at the bottom of the shell plate you can see where it indexes the shell plate.

    All this *really* does [beyond causing it to snap into place] is makes sure you're indexed properly and keeps the shell plate from turning backwards on the up-stroke of the ram. If the index adjustment is off - mine, out of the box, was perfect. The easiest way to tell for me was to take out the ball bearing put the shell plate on and then advance the plate with the handle - if the shell holder is indexed perfectly then you're good - if it's too far forward or back you're relying upon the ball bearing/spring to index you properly and not the pawl. Do keep in mind without the bearing+spring in that the shell plate will turn backwards.

    In short make sure your indexing block is adjusted properly, cut about 1/2 of the spring under the shell plate and you shouldn't spill much if any. I was throwing powder everywhere and now I throw none. If you call Dillon and complain about it spilling powder they'll tell you to remove the shell plate and remove about 1/4 of a coil of that spring and test until it performs as you want it to. I just removed it until it no longer caused the shell plate to snap into place but kept it from turning backwards [i.e. I rely upon my indexing block to index, and not the bearing+spring] but if it's real close it will still snap a tiny bit.

    As far as the bearing kit - it does what it's supposed to but if you don't bend the ejector wire you'll end up with jams ejecting finished cartridges [unless you're lucky]. I bent my spare so that it would sit better and I still ended up with maybe 1 in 20 to 1 in 40 that would jam up.

    I've been looking for a thrust bearing with a 1/2" inner diameter but an outer diameter that matches the head of the shell plate bolt but I have found none - such a bearing would be awesome because it would not break the catridge ejection feature of this fine progressive press.

    I found that clipping the spring, adjusting the indexing block, and tightening the shell plate bolt down to where there is a tiny bit of drag on the shell plate keeps me from spilling powder and avoids issues ejecting completed cartridges. Bear in mind you don't want to over-tighten the shell plate bolt because then you'll be creating additional pressure/friction on the indexing system.

    Seems like I am already going slow to get used to it and if I went as fast as I would with the case feeder running it would throw a lot more powder.
    I found that the slower I went the more powder it threw because instead of the indexing block indexing the plate - it would get close to indexed properly and the force of the spring+ball bearing would snap the plate into position and, as a result, throw powder all over the place.

    Once your indexing block is properly adjusted and the indexing bearing spring weakened sufficiently you will spill little to no powder.

    for .223 you want to use the large powder bar....
    This.

    You can clip about a half a coil off the shell plate ball detent spring to help with the power slop, tighten up the shell plate retaining bolt a hair too will help prevent it. It kinda a fine adjustment...
    I ended up clipping about 1/2 of the spring away - enough that the press still indexed beautifully and the shell plate didn't turn backwards but not so much that anything quit working/broke. I do, however, have a spare spring just in case :).

    OK, I will get me one of those parts kits soon and will try it then just in case I mess it up. Hoping there is one in there.
    I picked mine up at ProFire when I got my press - they probably have one [or can get you one]. That said - so long as you don't remove so much spring that the ball bearing no longer sticks out from it's hole you should be fine. Fact of the matter is that the stock spring is way too strong for it's intended purpose.

    I put the bearing in mine versus cutting the spring. It helped but is still not perfect.
    Do both - you'll be surprised. Personally I'd get a spare parts kit anyways that way if you don't like the cut spring you can swap back... I mean - really, what are the chances of that spring spontaneously breaking? Slim.

    So it doesn't come with a bearing or replacing it with a different one?
    It doesn't come with a thrust bearing, but it would be nice if Dillon designed a thrust bearing that fit within the coil of the ejector wire :).
     

    GarandTeed

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    I cut 1/4 of a turn off the spring at a time. I can't remember for sure but I think I ended up taking off 1-1/4 turns total. It's not 100% perfect but after loading 1000 .40 S&W, I probably don't have much more than a grain of powder lost around the shell plate.
     

    MikeDVB

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    I cut 1/4 of a turn off the spring at a time. I can't remember for sure but I think I ended up taking off 1-1/4 turns total. It's not 100% perfect but after loading 1000 .40 S&W, I probably don't have much more than a grain of powder lost around the shell plate.
    Yeah, there really isn't a downside to removing up to about half of the spring because, at that point, it will still cause the press to index just fine.

    Disclaimer: If you cut your spring at all, I suggest having a backup just in case.
     

    yournamehere

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    MikeDVB

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    Yep, whatever you have to do to run it smoothly. It's pickier on the tightness if you don't have the bearing but I prefer using a stock unmodified ejector wire and having reliable finished cartridge ejection :).
     

    atalon

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    wow that kit looks nice. I thing I am going to have to pick it up.

    Edit: well I just realized it doesn't come with the bent ejector wire
     
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