Network Geeks, need some help :)

[IndyBeerman]

I have a hodgepodge setup here @ home and I'm wanting to configure this mess better with all three computer being able to communicate and being able to access the HD Silicon HomeRun TV box.

OK folks here's my situation, I have...
3 PC's
a HD Silicon HomeRun TV
Internet bridge to recieve wireless signals from my weather senors
2 NetGear wireless routers (WNR3000, WNR2000)
Belken 4 port router
2 TrendNet Gaming ADAPTERS (changed from Router)
and my BrightHouse Cable modem/VIOP/Wireless router
and a gifted TrendNet 8 port Gigabit switch.

Currently hooked up like this...

Cable modem to:

WNR3000 wireless router (4 ports)
port 1 My Computer
port 2 2nd computer
port 3 Weather bridge
port 4 Belken Router (connected to HD Silcon HomeRun and 3rd compter)
Wirless connection to TrendNet Gaming adapters
1st one connected to a Blue Ray player upstairs
2nd connected to WNR2000.
LexMark wirless network printer

WNR2000 Wirlessly connected to LG Wireless USB stick
The WNR is being used to extend my wifi to the east end of the house because I have a very weak signal coming from the west end.

Any thoughts and ideas on how to connect this all using the Trendnet switch and removing the Belkin router from the mix.

I'm not a noob, but by no means am I a network guru, so any suggestion that can get me my end results.

BTW, although my Cable Modem has router/wireless built in, I am not using it because it does not let me use the extensively long password I use with my two NetGear wireless routers.









(4 ports with 2 computers and the Internet weather bridge

 

[dans4420]

have you tried to just replace the belkin router with the switch.

 

[tornrebel]

First question: are both your wireless routers setup as individual routers? If so you are probably wanting to set one as a bridge or access point from the other. Also look to see what speeds each is capable of because I have see them cause issues with speed. I also would look to cable as much as possible since it is still the fastest solution. As for the router you are going to want to choose one router and then place switches off of it. If not you are getting to many NAT requests before you even leave the home. Remove and hubs or old. equipment because they are only half duplex. If you would like to discuss more PM me as I have a great setup in my home and manage a pretty extensive network here in indiana.

Remember that you are typically going to get some latency with home wireless network and hard wiring is always going to be better especially if all devices are gig-e capable. We have a media server, router, 3 switches, 4 computers, 3 tablets, 3 game systems, and 2 TVs networked together. Oh and 5 directv boxes.

 

[jkaetz]

If I were to ask things like:
What is DHCP?
The difference between a switch and a router
What are DD-WRT and Tomato
What is NAT
how would you answer? Just trying to feel out your tech level. Your description describes a lot of "routers". There is a significant difference between the two and you really only want one router in a home network. Its purpose is to get all your home network stuff to talk to the internet. If all your equipment is indeed routers, you want to see if you can turn off the routing functions and have them operate as switches. Most can do this, some you would need to use a third party firmware like DD-WRT or Tomato. Are the gaming routers indeed routers or do they simply bridge your wireless network to devices that are wired only?

My suggestion:
User your WNR3000 as your router and DHCP server, turn off DHCP and routing on all your other devices. Connect your WNR3000 to the new switch with a cable and connect your other devices to the switch as well. Run a cable from the switch to your WNR2000 and use the same SSID for both wireless networks. Your wireless clients should be smart enough to switch between them. All your devices should then be on the same subnet and be able to communicate with each other.

I'm also running a fairly extensive home network with multiple wireless access points, switches, and cat6 cable run through the entire house.

 

[Double T]

I was going to ask if wiring the home with cat6 was a possibility. Seems like someone kind of already mentioned it.

 

[IndyBeerman]

Running Cat5/6 cable is out of the question, just the cost alone, along with where/how it would have to be run.

That's why I originally got the two TrendNet Gaming ADAPTERS, used to have my VOIP and one Blu-Ray hooked up to them, just plug them into the devices and WPS them to the WNR3000 and walk away.

So here's a question.

Cable modem to WNR3000 to TrendNet switch, if I connect all of the following to the switch

CPU1
CPU2
CPU3
Weather Bridge
Silicone HomeRun HD-TV

Will everything above be fine through the switch and able to communicate to each other along with connecting to the internet?
There will be times I'll need to connect to the Weather Bridge to change settings/check battery levels on outside sensors, along with all three CPU's to use the Sliicone HomeRun TV

The two TrendNet Gaming routers with attached devices will not need to communicate to any of the above and only need access to the internet, I'll just do that the way I currently have set up.

If I were to ask things like:
What is DHCP?
The difference between a switch and a router
What are DD-WRT and Tomato
What is NAT

I know the basic difference between a router and switch, but the rest, above my pay grade.

 

[Tactical Dave]

You can get cat5e for around 75 bucks a box... Chip in some extra for the ends and you can wire your house yourself. Maybe under $150... It's not hard.

From a professional standpoint and there are electricians and network guys that will agree that for the average user the cost of 6 compared to 5 is not worth the minimal gains... A piece of plastic keeps the pairs separate and the pairs have more twists... Now when interference is a big concern like in a hospital then ok.

I refuse to run anything but 5e unless it is say an apartment, tend to have nothing but issues with the old quad/cat3/cat2 when it comes to high speed stuff.

 

[Caleb]

Running Cat5/6 cable is out of the question, just the cost alone, along with where/how it would have to be run.

That's why I originally got the two TrendNet Gaming ADAPTERS, used to have my VOIP and one Blu-Ray hooked up to them, just plug them into the devices and WPS them to the WNR3000 and walk away.

So here's a question.

Cable modem to WNR3000 to TrendNet switch, if I connect all of the following to the switch

CPU1
CPU2
CPU3
Weather Bridge
Silicone HomeRun HD-TV

Will everything above be fine through the switch and able to communicate to each other along with connecting to the internet?
There will be times I'll need to connect to the Weather Bridge to change settings/check battery levels on outside sensors, along with all three CPU's to use the Sliicone HomeRun TV

The two TrendNet Gaming routers with attached devices will not need to communicate to any of the above and only need access to the internet, I'll just do that the way I currently have set up.


I know the basic difference between a router and switch, but the rest, above my pay grade.

running cat5e isn't overly difficult if you have a second person to help, I did my parent's house from the 2nd floor bedrooms to the basement and set up a central networking center under the stairwell in the basement. Honestly, I dislike wireless for any stationary as I feel it can be unreliable at times and not provide maximum speed(outside of wireless N).

I feel I have most control over the network with it being hardwired in and can much easily create a single shared network between computers, printers, network phones, network camera's, etc. etc.

...but however you show disinterest in wiring up your house so...any pictures of your setup?

 

[Caleb]

You can get cat5e for around 75 bucks a box... Chip in some extra for the ends and you can wire your house yourself. Maybe under $150... It's not hard.

From a professional standpoint and there are electricians and network guys that will agree that for the average user the cost of 6 compared to 5 is not worth the minimal gains... A piece of plastic keeps the pairs separate and the pairs have more twists... Now when interference is a big concern like in a hospital then ok.

I refuse to run anything but 5e unless it is say an apartment, tend to have nothing but issues with the old quad/cat3/cat2 when it comes to high speed stuff.

I would only consider running cat6 if I'm crossing over many electrical cables and junctions or running extended length, but more likely then not, cat5e(not cat5) will work just fine. Fry's usually has a good deal on cat5e cables...

 

[Tactical Dave]

I would only consider running cat6 if I'm crossing over many electrical cables and junctions or running extended length, but more likely then not, cat5e(not cat5) will work just fine. Fry's usually has a good deal on cat5e cables...

Agreed but am more for the shielded stuff when alot of electrical is near by, but that stuff is ubber expensive..... Cat7 would be sweet.

YouTube has good vids on how to run wire and make ends.

I have seen what electrical interference can do first hand... Sometimes just attaching the line to the rafters away for the electrical can make all the difference.... Fluorescent tube lights can cause issues... If you have to run a line near one don't run it parallel to it....

 

[Caleb]

Agreed but am more for the shielded stuff when alot of electrical is near by, but that stuff is ubber expensive..... Cat7 would be sweet.

YouTube has good vids on how to run wire and make ends.

I have seen what electrical interference can do first hand... Sometimes just attaching the line to the rafters away for the electrical can make all the difference.... Fluorescent tube lights can cause issues... If you have to run a line near one don't run it parallel to it....

yea, most can't or won't justify cat6...I would cat6 my house, hadn't seen cat7 in person yet.

 

[Tactical Dave]

yea, most can't or won't justify cat6...I would cat6 my house, hadn't seen cat7 in person yet.

I haven't seen 7 either... Doubt I will for a long time considering the cost....

 

[tornrebel]

One easy thing you could fix is when using any server or host media servers you do not want those devices set up as dhcp. You can set those devices to any IP in your subnet range.

 

[jsharmon7]

I agree with the above suggestions while smiling and nodding.

 

[Caleb]

One easy thing you could fix is when using any server or host media servers you do not want those devices set up as dhcp. You can set those devices to any IP in your subnet range.

I concur...although the router can make life simple and assign ip addresses, you'll find you'll get ip conflicts the more devices the on the network. so as part of centralized network hub, you have your switch assign static ip addresses to each devices so it will never change and you'll always find it. From this centralized network hub, you can also assign separate vlan if you are hosting a server from home or you want to offer your guest a wireless connection without having access to your personal network.

Another plus side, you can set up a raid server but I personally only recommend this on a lan. Your wlan will most likely be too limited to back up your computers in a decent amount of time...

...then you can set up network camera's you can access from any computer on the vlan you assign...

 

[Caleb]

I haven't seen 7 either... Doubt I will for a long time considering the cost....

It's my experience that most companies I've been in do not have cat7 yet either, you are most like to find that kind of technology at google, facebook, or any other that relies on servers.

 

[IndyBeerman]

You can get cat5e for around 75 bucks a box... Chip in some extra for the ends and you can wire your house yourself. Maybe under $150... It's not hard.

Well you might think it's not hard, but for someone who is claustrophobic and looking @ paying about $8000.00+ in doctor's/hospital bills because of my wife's operation and chemo. It's not happening. That's why I said this below, did not want to get into it, so now you know why.

Running Cat5/6 cable is out of the question, just the cost alone, along with where/how it would have to be run.

Now here's a drawn layout (excuse the hurried drawings)

Will the below work with no problems, with just replugging and no setup?

 

[Caleb]

Well you might think it's not hard, but for someone who is claustrophobic and looking @ paying about $8000.00+ in doctor's/hospital bills because of my wife's operation and chemo. It's not happening. That's why I said this below, did not want to get into it, so now you know why.


Now here's a drawn layout (excuse the hurried drawings)

Will the below work with no problems, with just replugging and no setup?

You could always bribe some of us techie guys to come do it...

 

[Tactical Dave]

There are people on here that run wire for a living, if you got the supplies I am sure they/we would do the hard stuff for next to nothing or possibly free if it was a few of us and we got a home cooked meal haha but I interstate with the bills. Just saying I have seen issues with the older wire.

Any way of selling the additional routers/switches or trading them for one big switch? Reason I say that is less stuff that can go bad.

Also unless there is new technology that I don't know about those act like splitters, you start loosing data... It's why you want the devices that pull the most data closest to your source... Ie router. From the drawings I assume the source only has one Ethernet port. If it was me I would consider trying to trade what you have for a large switch but I have a feeling those devices are in multiple rooms. Are the blue rays non wifi? If so I think they just need Internet for updates. I also assume your VoIP is not thought your Internet provider since it comes out of a switch? As a rule keep stuff like VoIP towards the end of the system and things like TVs using Netflix and all towards the beginning... Again less loss towards the beginning.

 

[perry]

There's no signal loss like you're thinking. It's not the same signal being just passed along, especially with switches and routers. The packets are examined, headers possibly changed (especially on routers) and sent back out the appropriate port. It's not like the analog cable tv system where the signal does suffer degradation through splitters.

A packet comes in to a switch, the switch looks at where it is supposed to go and looks up that address in its address table, and sends it out to the appropriate port. Address Resolution Protocol - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The maximum length for an individual run is 100m. And you'll introduce a few miliseconds of delay through each device, but nothing worth worrying about.