Need information on Casting my own Muzzleloader bullets

[Aaronhome27]

I have been toying with the idea of casting my own .50 cal muzzleloader bullets for some time now. I have been casting my own 454 casull and 45LC (SWC) with very good success for a while and was actually thinking of buying some sabots and using those bullets and probably still will at least try it. The thing I am trying to do though is get more self reliant. I dont want to run to the store if I run out of sabots. I have been eyeing the Lee R.E.A.L molds and think I may just jump in to one of those instead. Does anyone have helpful information or experience with casting their own? I would like to avoid gas checks and sabots altogether. I get an average of 1" groups at 100 with my tc encore, 90 grains 777, 777 primers and TC Shockwaves. I would like to come close to that with my own cast bullets. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

 

[l c gun guy]

I don't like the real bullet has not worked well 4 me. Make sure u use soft lead in muzzle loaders.

 

[Aaronhome27]

I have pure lead, Straight WW, and linotype to play with. I have heard that if you arent soft enough it is tuff getting the bullet started. Have you found a decent mold to use? It would be a dream to use just Alox and go!!

 

[6birds]

I have pure lead, Straight WW, and linotype to play with. I have heard that if you arent soft enough it is tuff getting the bullet started. Have you found a decent mold to use? It would be a dream to use just Alox and go!!

You're on the right track. My father has the REAL mold, a 2-out, and it works OK for practice rounds.

They are easy to cast. We add just a little 50/50 plumbers alloy to get some tin in the mix, the tin helps fill out the molds much better that pure lead.

We have cast just WW, they cast fine, and they start fine. This mix is preferred, as we have much WW to cast, the pure lead we save for round balls. He has the 320 gr mold.

The Lee molds are Aluminum, and overheat easlily, he's hunting for a new custom mold, to get us a Maxi-ball with 2-pin hollowpoint. That will get him off the hook on buying from others, and away from the aluminum mold.

Accuracy is NOT as good as Sabot or the Maxi-hunters we use, but is fine for plinking. Tumble in Alox and go, just as you wished.

For large game, we still use TC Maxi Hunters, love that hollow point, Dad has used it for both bear and elk in several states, has worked very well out of his Hawken.

If you're shooting an inline, your groups may be completly different.

Hope this helped.

 

[HICKMAN]

you might also try castboolits.gunloads.com

TONS of info on casting

 

[6birds]

you might also try castboolits.gunloads.com

TONS of info on casting

Boolits and 24HourCampfire is where is it's at, much less tinfoil than here too.

 

[straight-shooter]

I know this is a older thread but I would like to offer some insight about using the REAL bullet for muzzleloader.

Here is the conclusion I've come to and while it may only be worth two cents I'll toss it in anyway.

Faster twist like 1:28 then use the heavier REAL 320gr bullet. the lighter REAL bullet has to be under charged so it won't strip the bullet.

1:48 twist then use the REAL 250gr bullet. 80 to 90 grains of real black powder or Pyrodex RS and you'll find the center of the target with a sweet grouping.

1:60 to 1:70 twist, you probably should stick to round ball. Although I've never fired a REAL out of these slower twists you may experiment and see since I'm not really sure about this one.

My findings show me that twist is the key on bullet selection and especially weight of the bullet and lastly finding the sweet spot for the amount of powder to use.

 

[Aaronhome27]

Thanks straight-shooter. I will try that. I am shooting an Encore so it is a faster twist rate. I think I may get a mold here pretty soon. I was holding off and then just didnt get around to it.