Maybe not as good as caliber debate

[88E30M50]

I've been going through my blend of Mobil1 oil, Mobil1 ATF with a bit of STP added to increase viscosity for well over a decade. It's a good general weight oil for rotating parts and intricate action parts (CZ 75 sear cage assy).

For slide rails, I use synthetic wheel bearing grease in summer months and synthetic engine assy lube in winter months. Sig rails, or any other aluminum rails, get greased regularly.

I tend to run guns a bit on the wet side generally with the exception of carry guns. Those get properly lubed, then wiped down well. I don't want to have to answer to oil spots on the wife's new furniture

 

[Jaybird1980]

I think this should be in purple.
No offense, but no way.

First of all, I get enough of that crap on my hands at work, its hard to get off, it gets everywhere, and I certainly don't want it on my holsters and clothes.

Second, I have a hard time believing it's a proper lubricant for quickly moving parts. It's designed for long term, one time in, one time out, anti-corrosion.

That's just me though.

I'm not sure why you would have a hard time believing it's a lubricant, it states it right on the container. It's base is EP grease. Which is why it's good at long term, anti corrosion, high shock load, high velocity, and high pressure.

I agree with it getting everywhere, just like any other grease. If it's on the outside of your gun you probably used to much.

 

[Jaybird1980]

If you get a smudge on your finger do you end up looking more like a copper still, as compared to the tin man like happens with the silver anti-seize?

Yes

 

[Judamonster]

Lots of guys just use regular wheel bearing grease.

Lucas red n tacky. I started using it for everything including all marine applications. Stuff is fantastic in all temp ranges and situations. Its already in my grease guns so its easy to get a squirt for smaller jobs and apply with a small brush. I don't like all the misc. companies that seem to pop up and are all of a sudden the new amazing lubricant brand. I'll stick with time and user proven brand.

 

[BehindBlueI's]

I've used grease on all metal guns, and I've used oil. Both have some pros and cons, both work, I'm not religious about either for routine use. If it's a very dusty or sandy environment, or an extremely hot or cold one, then I start having more particular desires about lubrication but I seldom need to concern myself with that sort of thing any longer.

 

[Hookeye]

I still have the old Shooters Choice red grease. Worked fine on anything semi auto. That and Remoil. Yup, ima boomer

 

[ditcherman]

I'm not sure why you would have a hard time believing it's a lubricant, it states it right on the container. It's base is EP grease. Which is why it's good at long term, anti corrosion, high shock load, high velocity, and high pressure.

I agree with it getting everywhere, just like any other grease. If it's on the outside of your gun you probably used to much.

As a guy who has spent quite a bit of money on bearings shafts and the like because of the “wrong” “lubricant” used, even though John Deere or the internet or whoever highly endorsed it, I’m not going by the label advertisement.

Feels greasy to me doesn’t cut it, for me. Lucas red and tacky is good, but mystick JT5 high heat is better. But that’s pretty nuanced, and all this being said, I don’t think guns must be all that particular. When Aaron Cowan can test out a gun with a 5000 round burn down in one setting with what I understand to be an initial lube it probably just doesn’t matter.
Just me.

 

[MikeDVB]

I've always run oil on my 1911 [which I've had since 2012] and I've never had one failure or issue out of it.

 

[Expat]

Les Baer recommends just CLP

 

[Sigblitz]

I copied this from another site, discussing grease.

Greases have different grades. No.1-2-3. Number 1 being the thinnest. Most wheel bearing greases at the store are a ngli no.2. Higher the number the thicker, tackier the grease.
NLGI number 1 is the standard for a light grease. There are also lighter greases, like engine assembly lube Lubriplate 105. For a NLGI No. 1 grease, Lubriplate 630-AA. There are many others that meet the specs.

 

[wcd]

I copied this from another site, discussing grease.

Greases have different grades. No.1-2-3. Number 1 being the thinnest. Most wheel bearing greases at the store are a ngli no.2. Higher the number the thicker, tackier the grease.
NLGI number 1 is the standard for a light grease. There are also lighter greases, like engine assembly lube Lubriplate 105. For a NLGI No. 1 grease, Lubriplate 630-AA. There are many others that meet the specs.

Just an update the STI rode along with me to Sioux Falls, just for he haws I had it gone through no issues springs all in good repair. He also lubed it up with a light grade grease some flavor of Lucas. I mean he put a film in all sides of the rails, guide rod, lugs, and used oil on the link. Afterwards I ran about 300 rounds through it purposely using a mixture of fmj and hp of a lot of brands and mixed grains. The thing ran like a sewing machine. Even used a rest which literally put them all through the same hole.

i am I pressed