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keypads on safes
- Thread starter Morgan88
- Start date
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8th SPS USAF
Expert
I have a Liberty and it works fine. I change battery once a yr. I many not need to, but one 9 v a yr ,is better than not being able to get in when needed.
Slawburger
Master
I prefer the tried and true dial. No batteries, no electronics, high reliability.
Mine has a key that can be used behind the dial if you ever let the battery die. I change them once a year and never had a problem. I go back and forth on what my next safe will have. Dial, It will always open. Electronic, it will open faster if the batteries aren't dead and I can open it in the dark by feel. But I do think that dial is a safer bet.
This was the sort of argument I had with myself when I bought mine. I've been around too many electrical devices that fail when you need them the most so I went with the traditional dial setup. I'm sure quality, well respected, safe companies provide the best devices they can and still make a profit--and they sure would be quicker to operate...but I just couldn't get my trust level up to buy one.
Slawburger
Master
There is a discussion in the linked video concerning keypad locks.
https://www.indianagunowners.com/fo...ussion/365211-black-friday-safe-purchase.html
https://www.indianagunowners.com/fo...ussion/365211-black-friday-safe-purchase.html
YMMV, but for me the long guns and non-EDC (or even Sometimes Carry) are kept unloaded in the big cabinet sans-ammo. I dont need to get into it in a hurry.
For me it can have a keypad/electronics ONLY if there is a manual way to enter (key behind the keypad).
No way in hell I would keep my guns in a vault where the only way in is via electronics. WHEN (notice I didnt say "if") it fails whether its next week or next decade, you are going to need to get into it eventually. I'm not about to pay high dollar for something that is going to take an angle grinder or worse, a locksmith drilling just the right hole in just the right place so I can get my guns out.
For me it can have a keypad/electronics ONLY if there is a manual way to enter (key behind the keypad).
No way in hell I would keep my guns in a vault where the only way in is via electronics. WHEN (notice I didnt say "if") it fails whether its next week or next decade, you are going to need to get into it eventually. I'm not about to pay high dollar for something that is going to take an angle grinder or worse, a locksmith drilling just the right hole in just the right place so I can get my guns out.
The Keymaster
Master
Electronic locks fail, keys get lost. Set your dial combination lock to a set of numbers that are significant to you, and you will be much better off.
When I finally decided to buy a safe, I made the choice to go electronic. No back up key, just the number pad. After having it for five or six years, I am not upset with the performance of it, but a dial would probably be faster at times.
Looking back at my decision, I would most likely go the old school route with my next purchase, and buy a combination (dial) lock, and not have to worry if the electronics will decide to keep me out of the safe that day.
Looking back at my decision, I would most likely go the old school route with my next purchase, and buy a combination (dial) lock, and not have to worry if the electronics will decide to keep me out of the safe that day.
Speedybruin4
Sharpshooter
- Sep 7, 2012
- 334
- 18
My main safe has a keypad and a key backup and my other one is keypad only. For the size that I needed the keypad only was my only option in my price range in the area. I would rather have a keypad with a keyed backup on both. Does anyone in the area know of anyone that can convert an all electric to mechanical or keypad with key back up for a decent price?
Both of my dads Cannons had electronic locks. The week of my Grandpas estate auction the lock went out on the one with my grandpas guns in it. We HAD to have them at the auction and the only way to get them was to have a locksmith come and drill out the locks. He called Cannon and they sent him a new dial lock (by request) and he got another one for the other safe. He'll never go back to digital.
If you are mechanical you can do it yourself. It is not that bad. I redid the combo on mine, was told I could not do it. You needed a special key. It is not hard to recombo a dial but I think that they don't want you to do it because you recombo it wrong slam it shut and have problems.
Back to your question. You can order a combo lock. You need to open the safe, take off the back of the door, then you will see the lock. Should just be an unscrew and swap. Depends on your safe and brand of lock.
Back to the OP. The problem with digital locks, most run an electric motor that runs plastic gears. There are tricks to get one opened after the gears strip out. It is not fun. I guess it will depend on if you are opening it once a week or 10 times a day. Most will not have a problem... I always seem to be an oddball.
The Keymaster
Master
There are a lot of "theories" as to what an EMP will or will not do. I guess we won't know until we have one. I tend to be conservative, and IO will stick with my mechanical lock.
I did some research on this prior to purchasing my safe. I ended up with a dial lock. Both are reliable if you perform the normal necessary maintenance but there are still some disadvantages to keypads. With dial locks your typical combination is safer and harder to guess. I used to have to use a keypad lock to get through a door at work so I know for a fact that if an industrial keypad combination can be guessed by worn keys that a domestic one will show way faster. As you use the keys oil, residue, dirt, and the wearing off of the numbers will naturally occur and it cannot be avoided. These changes while not giving away your combination will certainly isolate the digits of your combination and a kid with time on their hands is the worst enemy of an idle lock. Given the nature of the lock and the nature of a little punk kid with too much time on their hands I chose to go with something that didn't have that disadvantage. Additionally, a lot of dial locks have a key lock that locks the dial from being turned, yet another loophole for a kid to get through to begin working on the combination.
I have an electronic lock safe that the locking mechanism failed on it. Called the factory and they knew about the problem. They recommended beating on the safe while trying to turn the handle to see if it would release. It did and they sent a new updated electric actuator. I was lucky and finally got it open as the alternative was a cutting torch and the safe wasn't that old. This was a Sam's Club safe. So I'll never buy another electronic only safe.
Was told when the plastic gears get bad or maybe the actuator like Dakota said... You need to disconnect the battery. Normally when you unlock the safe it unlocks and after a few seconds it relocks. (what I was told, not sure on model) You need to connect battery, type code, and immediately disconnect battery. Repeat until you turn blue or it unlocks. That way it once it signals to unlock, pulling the battery so it won't try to relock. Keep doing it and it may slowly work its way to unlock.
tradertator
Grandmaster
I opted for the non electronic route with mine and went with a big dial. I know the keypads are ultra reliable, but I have **** poor luck and figured I'd loose the key.
